LS Brakes
10-12-11, 04:17 PM
#137
The whole swap is really easy and straight forward sometimes you have to grind sometimes you dont guess I got lucky. I even went a little further and did a little something to my rear calipers too have a look:
Before front :
Before rear:
And after front:
And rear please excuse the greasy hand print:
I even changed out to red sheathed SS brake lines and obviously you can see the rotors were changed. I think it came out pretty good may not work for some , but it works for me.
Before front :
Before rear:
And after front:
And rear please excuse the greasy hand print:
I even changed out to red sheathed SS brake lines and obviously you can see the rotors were changed. I think it came out pretty good may not work for some , but it works for me.
10-12-11, 07:05 PM
#138
That's really nice SoCal72. I'm gonna do a step-by-step process once I get back into this. But for now, I need to postpone this project of mine until after the holidays. I'm running real low on budget as of now and I just wanna do it right the first time. I plan on getting it powder coated, upgrade the rotors to drilled and slotted and get it powder coated as well, my rear brakes need to be rebuilt also but not urgent. So, I'm getting back to this once I have everything complete and I will take pictures of the whole process so that there will be no more questions regarding the whole process and what not.
10-13-11, 07:57 AM
#139
That's really nice SoCal72. I'm gonna do a step-by-step process once I get back into this. But for now, I need to postpone this project of mine until after the holidays. I'm running real low on budget as of now and I just wanna do it right the first time. I plan on getting it powder coated, upgrade the rotors to drilled and slotted and get it powder coated as well, my rear brakes need to be rebuilt also but not urgent. So, I'm getting back to this once I have everything complete and I will take pictures of the whole process so that there will be no more questions regarding the whole process and what not.
Unfortunately money issues are a very common thing these days dont let your car make you go bankrupt. Do what you can when you can, and you'll get there sooner than you think.
When you do finish I am definitely looking forward to seeing the finished product....
Last edited by socal72; 10-13-11 at 03:54 PM. Reason: spelling corrections
10-13-11, 12:55 PM
#141
I'm actually researching what's the difference between the 2. Maybe you can shed some light on it. I know for a fact that the slotted basically helps remove debris that stick to the break pads, and I'm pretty sure the slots help vent the heat out of the rotors. Am I under the right impression?
10-13-11, 02:48 PM
#142
Slots and drilled holes came from the days when friction material created gases while braking. These slots and holes provided channels to let these gases escape to allow full contact of friction material against the rotor. Friction material has since evolved quite a bit over the years and produce virtually no gas during extreme braking conditions. However slotted rotors still have a use today. During extreme braking glaze can and will form on the friction material causing a sheering condition almost glass on glass contact. The slots help remove the glaze built up on the pad surface.
Of all the research I've done on this subject, the only reason to have drilled rotors is when moisture conditions are too the extreme, such as rain. Other than that, drilling rotors have no performance gain. Some may argue rotational mass, brake cooling, etc... Yes, you may have gained a rotational mass advantage but at what cost? Contact surface. The typical drilled rotor looses ~ 12 - 15% of its contact surface when compared to the ~ 5% of slotted rotors. In general, you'll need a larger rotor to have the equivalent surface area as a smaller rotor. When it comes to cooling, modern rotors are all vented to begin with, there is absolutely no need to have holes drilled perpendicular to the path the charge of air would travel. Air will take the path of least resistance, not take a 90 degree turn. Drilling rotors have a negative impact on the heat sink characteristics, a larger mass will be able to withstand more heat before cracking. Drilled rotors will start cracking prematurely after extreme heat cycles because there is not enough mass to exchange the heat.
All in all, average braking situations will never require slots or holes. OEM blanks will be more than enough for the typical driver. Drilled and slotted rotors is basically eye-candy for street cars, just a cool factor. People will ask, "what about all the Ferraris, Lambos, etc, etc, etc..." Again it's eye candy to help sell the cars. If you look at some of the most extreme forms of road-racing, such as F1, they still run blanks. Of course they are running carbon ceramic brakes that's at a different level. Some argue that they don't drill and slot those rotors because they can't, it would damage the blank. If holes and slots had that much of a advantage, F1 would have the resources to R&D a method to make it work.
There's much, much more info on this subject , this is just a brief explanation.
Of all the research I've done on this subject, the only reason to have drilled rotors is when moisture conditions are too the extreme, such as rain. Other than that, drilling rotors have no performance gain. Some may argue rotational mass, brake cooling, etc... Yes, you may have gained a rotational mass advantage but at what cost? Contact surface. The typical drilled rotor looses ~ 12 - 15% of its contact surface when compared to the ~ 5% of slotted rotors. In general, you'll need a larger rotor to have the equivalent surface area as a smaller rotor. When it comes to cooling, modern rotors are all vented to begin with, there is absolutely no need to have holes drilled perpendicular to the path the charge of air would travel. Air will take the path of least resistance, not take a 90 degree turn. Drilling rotors have a negative impact on the heat sink characteristics, a larger mass will be able to withstand more heat before cracking. Drilled rotors will start cracking prematurely after extreme heat cycles because there is not enough mass to exchange the heat.
All in all, average braking situations will never require slots or holes. OEM blanks will be more than enough for the typical driver. Drilled and slotted rotors is basically eye-candy for street cars, just a cool factor. People will ask, "what about all the Ferraris, Lambos, etc, etc, etc..." Again it's eye candy to help sell the cars. If you look at some of the most extreme forms of road-racing, such as F1, they still run blanks. Of course they are running carbon ceramic brakes that's at a different level. Some argue that they don't drill and slot those rotors because they can't, it would damage the blank. If holes and slots had that much of a advantage, F1 would have the resources to R&D a method to make it work.
There's much, much more info on this subject , this is just a brief explanation.
Last edited by SChema; 10-13-11 at 02:52 PM.
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Noisy (09-20-19)
11-03-11, 02:59 PM
#144
Slots and drilled holes came from the days when friction material created gases while braking. These slots and holes provided channels to let these gases escape to allow full contact of friction material against the rotor. Friction material has since evolved quite a bit over the years and produce virtually no gas during extreme braking conditions. However slotted rotors still have a use today. During extreme braking glaze can and will form on the friction material causing a sheering condition almost glass on glass contact. The slots help remove the glaze built up on the pad surface.
Of all the research I've done on this subject, the only reason to have drilled rotors is when moisture conditions are too the extreme, such as rain. Other than that, drilling rotors have no performance gain. Some may argue rotational mass, brake cooling, etc... Yes, you may have gained a rotational mass advantage but at what cost? Contact surface. The typical drilled rotor looses ~ 12 - 15% of its contact surface when compared to the ~ 5% of slotted rotors. In general, you'll need a larger rotor to have the equivalent surface area as a smaller rotor. When it comes to cooling, modern rotors are all vented to begin with, there is absolutely no need to have holes drilled perpendicular to the path the charge of air would travel. Air will take the path of least resistance, not take a 90 degree turn. Drilling rotors have a negative impact on the heat sink characteristics, a larger mass will be able to withstand more heat before cracking. Drilled rotors will start cracking prematurely after extreme heat cycles because there is not enough mass to exchange the heat.
All in all, average braking situations will never require slots or holes. OEM blanks will be more than enough for the typical driver. Drilled and slotted rotors is basically eye-candy for street cars, just a cool factor. People will ask, "what about all the Ferraris, Lambos, etc, etc, etc..." Again it's eye candy to help sell the cars. If you look at some of the most extreme forms of road-racing, such as F1, they still run blanks. Of course they are running carbon ceramic brakes that's at a different level. Some argue that they don't drill and slot those rotors because they can't, it would damage the blank. If holes and slots had that much of a advantage, F1 would have the resources to R&D a method to make it work.
There's much, much more info on this subject , this is just a brief explanation.
Of all the research I've done on this subject, the only reason to have drilled rotors is when moisture conditions are too the extreme, such as rain. Other than that, drilling rotors have no performance gain. Some may argue rotational mass, brake cooling, etc... Yes, you may have gained a rotational mass advantage but at what cost? Contact surface. The typical drilled rotor looses ~ 12 - 15% of its contact surface when compared to the ~ 5% of slotted rotors. In general, you'll need a larger rotor to have the equivalent surface area as a smaller rotor. When it comes to cooling, modern rotors are all vented to begin with, there is absolutely no need to have holes drilled perpendicular to the path the charge of air would travel. Air will take the path of least resistance, not take a 90 degree turn. Drilling rotors have a negative impact on the heat sink characteristics, a larger mass will be able to withstand more heat before cracking. Drilled rotors will start cracking prematurely after extreme heat cycles because there is not enough mass to exchange the heat.
All in all, average braking situations will never require slots or holes. OEM blanks will be more than enough for the typical driver. Drilled and slotted rotors is basically eye-candy for street cars, just a cool factor. People will ask, "what about all the Ferraris, Lambos, etc, etc, etc..." Again it's eye candy to help sell the cars. If you look at some of the most extreme forms of road-racing, such as F1, they still run blanks. Of course they are running carbon ceramic brakes that's at a different level. Some argue that they don't drill and slot those rotors because they can't, it would damage the blank. If holes and slots had that much of a advantage, F1 would have the resources to R&D a method to make it work.
There's much, much more info on this subject , this is just a brief explanation.
11-19-11, 09:37 PM
#146
Slots and drilled holes came from the days when friction material created gases while braking. These slots and holes provided channels to let these gases escape to allow full contact of friction material against the rotor. Friction material has since evolved quite a bit over the years and produce virtually no gas during extreme braking conditions. However slotted rotors still have a use today. During extreme braking glaze can and will form on the friction material causing a sheering condition almost glass on glass contact. The slots help remove the glaze built up on the pad surface.
Of all the research I've done on this subject, the only reason to have drilled rotors is when moisture conditions are too the extreme, such as rain. Other than that, drilling rotors have no performance gain. Some may argue rotational mass, brake cooling, etc... Yes, you may have gained a rotational mass advantage but at what cost? Contact surface. The typical drilled rotor looses ~ 12 - 15% of its contact surface when compared to the ~ 5% of slotted rotors. In general, you'll need a larger rotor to have the equivalent surface area as a smaller rotor. When it comes to cooling, modern rotors are all vented to begin with, there is absolutely no need to have holes drilled perpendicular to the path the charge of air would travel. Air will take the path of least resistance, not take a 90 degree turn. Drilling rotors have a negative impact on the heat sink characteristics, a larger mass will be able to withstand more heat before cracking. Drilled rotors will start cracking prematurely after extreme heat cycles because there is not enough mass to exchange the heat.
All in all, average braking situations will never require slots or holes. OEM blanks will be more than enough for the typical driver. Drilled and slotted rotors is basically eye-candy for street cars, just a cool factor. People will ask, "what about all the Ferraris, Lambos, etc, etc, etc..." Again it's eye candy to help sell the cars. If you look at some of the most extreme forms of road-racing, such as F1, they still run blanks. Of course they are running carbon ceramic brakes that's at a different level. Some argue that they don't drill and slot those rotors because they can't, it would damage the blank. If holes and slots had that much of a advantage, F1 would have the resources to R&D a method to make it work.
There's much, much more info on this subject , this is just a brief explanation.
Of all the research I've done on this subject, the only reason to have drilled rotors is when moisture conditions are too the extreme, such as rain. Other than that, drilling rotors have no performance gain. Some may argue rotational mass, brake cooling, etc... Yes, you may have gained a rotational mass advantage but at what cost? Contact surface. The typical drilled rotor looses ~ 12 - 15% of its contact surface when compared to the ~ 5% of slotted rotors. In general, you'll need a larger rotor to have the equivalent surface area as a smaller rotor. When it comes to cooling, modern rotors are all vented to begin with, there is absolutely no need to have holes drilled perpendicular to the path the charge of air would travel. Air will take the path of least resistance, not take a 90 degree turn. Drilling rotors have a negative impact on the heat sink characteristics, a larger mass will be able to withstand more heat before cracking. Drilled rotors will start cracking prematurely after extreme heat cycles because there is not enough mass to exchange the heat.
All in all, average braking situations will never require slots or holes. OEM blanks will be more than enough for the typical driver. Drilled and slotted rotors is basically eye-candy for street cars, just a cool factor. People will ask, "what about all the Ferraris, Lambos, etc, etc, etc..." Again it's eye candy to help sell the cars. If you look at some of the most extreme forms of road-racing, such as F1, they still run blanks. Of course they are running carbon ceramic brakes that's at a different level. Some argue that they don't drill and slot those rotors because they can't, it would damage the blank. If holes and slots had that much of a advantage, F1 would have the resources to R&D a method to make it work.
There's much, much more info on this subject , this is just a brief explanation.
12-14-11, 08:40 AM
#147
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So I opted for the MKIV calipers since there are such limited options for rotors for the LS400... I wanted just slotted with a coating on them to keep the build low key. I got the calipers for about 145 out the door.
My only question is how are you guys handling the proportioning? if I do front and rears should I run the TT proportioning valve? The master on the NA mkiv and tt are both 1" but dont share the same part # which seemed odd... any ideas?
My only question is how are you guys handling the proportioning? if I do front and rears should I run the TT proportioning valve? The master on the NA mkiv and tt are both 1" but dont share the same part # which seemed odd... any ideas?
12-15-11, 06:13 AM
#149
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With tt master and valve I'm pretty sure that would make it pretty much fool proof?
