zaiid138

I have a 98 GS300 and my Rear brake pads wear unevenly.. i just changed my rotors and pads less then 2 years ago. and they started grinding just yesterday... so i changed the pads and rotors again...
i use wagner rotor (bd125641) and pads (qc771).. anyone know what could cause this?? and how i can go about fixing it?
top pic is the driver side and the left outer pad is the one that has the uneven wear

RoboRam12

The inside and outside pads will wear differently. I changed my rear pads a few weeks ago and the inside pads were quite a bit more worn than the outsides. I would recommend that you check out your caliper pins, if they are dirty or sticking they could cause one of the pads to drag more than the other.

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Either caliper slide pins, remove them and re-lube and reattach. Torque to spec. Check your fluids as well. Also the caliper itself may be sticking. Rebuild kit will be less than $15 and a DIY job.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

Not on a opposite side dual pot/piston. What are these Pins you are talking about? You realize there is no moving mechanism on the rears except the pots/pistons. I would recommend you stop recommending.

PLEASE..PLEASE show me this Caliper slide Pin on the rear caliper.. Basics 101 always torque to Spec. Why the fluid? Did he ask about pedal feel?

DING DinG..DING...we have a winner...Not the caliper but the pot/piston maybe sticking/frozen.

OP. There is some wear difference on all calipers but with in tolerance, But No way in hell like the first pic. That is a bad pot/piston.

And always be sure to check your Washer fluid level

kene

iTrader: (2)

For the Front:

Part#: 47715A PIN, FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER SLIDE **715-22070 997.08-2004.11 JZS160, UZS161 2

Cost: $7.08


Link:

http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/Page_Pr...onentsIndex=27



For the Rear:


Link:

http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/Page_Pr...onentsIndex=28




Budget method to fix the problem(sticking brake piston):

Items needed:
- a large enough C-Clamp
(this would be a good example[http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/245...e_C_Clamp.jpg], but many times a medium sized one[the bottom portion of the "C" able to fit into the calipers clamping region] will work. you may also need a small block of wood to put between the caliper's piston and the bottom of the C-clamp when time comes to push it back in.)

or


- a large channel lock
(I've used the largest one in this picture from harbor freight[http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...et-43553.html], it worked, but it would have been easier if my channel locks had longer jaws)


- 1 spray bottle of Simple Green degreaser


- a rag cloth

**OPTIONAL**
- some medium-fine sand paper(320 grit[use lightly], 400 grit preferred)







Take apart rear brakes, unbolt the rear caliper that is sticking from its mounting bracket, and whilst the rear caliper is supported by something(a block of wood for example, so that it is not hanging/swinging by the rubber brake line) step on the brakes firmly.

Your goal is to get the brake caliper's piston to stick out. Once you have achieved this you can look closely at the caliper piston and see if there is any brake dust build up/grime around the outer diamter of this piston. If it looks dirty at all you can start by spraying simple green onto the rag and rubbing the dirt grime off. repeat this until you feel satisfied that there is not anymore dirt/grime on the caliper's piston.

If the simple Green is not working at getting the "caked on" grime off, then you can use the sand paper to lightly rub until you remove the grime. Your goal is to get the grime off, not sand your piston down completely. once you get the grime off from around the piston, then you can spray some simple green into a rag and wipe down the areas you just sanded.



Next you can use either the C-clamp or the the Channel-Locks to clamp down on the caliper's piston and the back of the caliper.(Basiacally the bottom of the C-Clamp will be inside the caliper touching the piston while the top of the C-clamp(the side with threaded bolt and twist ****) is touching the outside/back of the caliper.


[Note: if it is too hard to twist the C-clamp down onto the caliper, you can get a small diameter pipe and put it on one end of the twisting lever, while strategically hanging the caliper onto something(I used one of the suspension arms/rods on the suspension of my gs300 to do it...there was just enough slack on the rubber brake lie that allowed me to move the caliper over there.)

Now twist down on the C-clamp to force the caliper back into its recessed position.

Once you get the caliper back in, remove the C-clamp, and go step on the brakes again to bring the caliper's piston back out.

Now use the C-clamp again to put the piston back in and repeat the procedure until it is easy(far less resistance as before) to get push the piston back down using the C-clamp.



If using a Channel Lock it is still the same concept except you are going to be squeezing the piston back in.




If all else fails

pay $111.00(~$85 w/ core turned back in to them) at www.rockauto.com for a reman. caliper(stay away from A-1 Cardone brand if you can)

or

Get part # 47731B from the link above, and pay someone to rebuild your caliper. $$$?




Let me know if this helps.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

No it doesnt..you guys are Freaking slow..WTF!!! REAR...REAR..REAR

kene

iTrader: (2)

hey **** adkt.. I was not done editing and adding more info.


ssssllllooooowwwww ddddoooowwwwnnn.....lol

zaiid138

thank you all... i do beleive its the piston sticking.. i was kinda tough using my c-clamp to push the piston back in when replacing the pads... i'll just replace the calipar ... thanks again

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

Yeah..Ok..all i see from your posts is Copy/Paste... Thanks im done here

RoboRam12

No need to be an ***, I had a brain lapse. There are no pins in there rear caliper, sorry, I goofed. It happens. I would recommend you stop being an *** and just say something like, "Hey guys, there aren't any pins in the rear calipers." None of that extra **** is needed.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

Your welcome

kene

iTrader: (2)

Actually ****-adkt if you read through it the vast majority of my post was typed up, and the things that were copied and pasted were for illustrative purposes or a link to get to access to the replacement parts at a cheaper price. But I digress...


Do you seek to an argument in this thread?
I understand the fact that you are saying "There are no sliding pins on the rear caliper" but whats with all the negativity? Was it a bad day? If so then it all makes sense now. Otherwise, I don't understand the possible fulfillment from harboring negativity. And especially to those who are doing a good thing by trying to help members who are "down and out".

Either way, God bless and I hope today is a better day.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

Not an argument, nor picking on you..i Hate everyone Equally.. I call it Productivity. OP had a question. You did not answer it, nor i think you even read it. it required a single sentence answer. Regardless is easy to Copy/paste from the internet, thats what has made expert mechanics of people who dont even have a car..From your post i can see you have no/little technical experience, regardless im sure OP appreciates your efforts.

Im done here..anything more please PM me.

kene

iTrader: (2)

Your opinion is your opinion
..I have a damn good amount of tech. experience and I try to help in every way I can
If you've got an issue with the way I've explained things then go pound sand. Otherwise sit back, keep trying to read between the lines, and keep on trolling in other caverns on this board.



Any excess info or lengthy explanations I have given were not just for the OP but also for thenect member who may cone accross the same problem, but does not have the resources.


Sometimes civility, can be an excercise in futility.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

if you say so..Have a nice day.