DIY: How to rebuild your SC rack & pinion. 20k pics (well alot)
04-18-11, 11:45 PM
#16
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Hey everyone! Does anyone know if the rack and pinion assembly from a 1993 GS300 would be a compatible replacement part for a 1992 SC300? Thanks in advance for any help.
05-10-11, 10:41 PM
#19
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Hey k7q, I was asking specifically about the rack itself and the power steering hose also, but have since had my car repaired ($1800.00) and have also been told by someone that the GS300 parts couldn't be used as replacements, but thanks for replying.
04-17-12, 09:41 PM
#21
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that is very involved to say the least! I have to replace mine and was considering rebuilding it myself. After reading this I'm more inclined to purchase a reman'ed unit lol.
kudos for the great write up and good luck to any one attempting this!
kudos for the great write up and good luck to any one attempting this!
04-26-12, 07:11 AM
#22
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Rack and pinion LS 400, 1997
23. putting the inner tie rods back on. i have a press to press the OEM tie rod. i dont like the aftermarket replacement because their metal is softer then OEM. i use aftermarket replacement when the OEM tie rod is beyond repairable.
REPOSITION THE RACK ON THE VISE. make sure the rack is on tight before tighten the tie rods.
(lock washer then tie rod) you can put lock-tight on the threads if you wish.
once tight, use the hammer to bend the lock washer.
do to both tie rods
NO PICTURES FOR THIS PART since i test my racks before selling them.
put grease on the teeth of the shaft. use U-joint and steer left and right so the grease is spread out in the rack. do this for about 3-4 times. more grease wouldnt hurt. just messy. only grease the side with the teeth not the other side where it is smooth also put grease on the inner tie rods then put your new rack boots on and reinstall to car.
questions? LET ME KNOW.
GOOD LUCK YOUR GOING TO NEED IT
REPOSITION THE RACK ON THE VISE. make sure the rack is on tight before tighten the tie rods.
(lock washer then tie rod) you can put lock-tight on the threads if you wish.
once tight, use the hammer to bend the lock washer.
do to both tie rods
NO PICTURES FOR THIS PART since i test my racks before selling them.
put grease on the teeth of the shaft. use U-joint and steer left and right so the grease is spread out in the rack. do this for about 3-4 times. more grease wouldnt hurt. just messy. only grease the side with the teeth not the other side where it is smooth also put grease on the inner tie rods then put your new rack boots on and reinstall to car.
questions? LET ME KNOW.
GOOD LUCK YOUR GOING TO NEED IT
Is this normal?
04-26-12, 07:56 AM
#23
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Rack and pinion LS 400 , 1997
Your illustrated explanation to rebuild the rack and pinion is beautifull.
The only difference with my rack and pinion , LS 400 , 1997, is that the 2* thin inner spacers are missing.
Do you know if this is normal ?
Anyway thanks again for your thread.
Without this it would have cost me a lot of dollars.
The only difference with my rack and pinion , LS 400 , 1997, is that the 2* thin inner spacers are missing.
Do you know if this is normal ?
Anyway thanks again for your thread.
Without this it would have cost me a lot of dollars.
03-19-13, 01:05 AM
#25
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How to rebuild your SC rack & pinion
Hi.
Looked on the internet and this must be the best description of what to do. Can I follow these steps for the LS400 rack and pinion as well?
Looked on the internet and this must be the best description of what to do. Can I follow these steps for the LS400 rack and pinion as well?
03-19-13, 09:58 PM
#27
Super late reply. i thought this thread died out a long time ago. you guys can PM me questions or to guild me towards this thread.
i see that you are no longer a active member, but yes that is normal. I see that some newer racks dont come with the thin spacer/washer.
1. kit cost about $40+, inner tie rods ( if needed $50 each?), bellow boots $15 each, misc ( carb cleaner, rags, etc $20+)
2. first timer. maybe 3+ hours to disassemble and reassemble.
3. local auto parts sell them around $250 with lifetime warranty i believe.
Yes. LS and SC share the same rebuild kits. pretty much the same steps on the LS. slight difference due to different rack design.
ALSO UPDATED THE FIRST PAGE WITH SOME SLIGHT TWEAKS
Your illustrated explanation to rebuild the rack and pinion is beautifull.
The only difference with my rack and pinion , LS 400 , 1997, is that the 2* thin inner spacers are missing.
Do you know if this is normal ?
Anyway thanks again for your thread.
Without this it would have cost me a lot of dollars.
The only difference with my rack and pinion , LS 400 , 1997, is that the 2* thin inner spacers are missing.
Do you know if this is normal ?
Anyway thanks again for your thread.
Without this it would have cost me a lot of dollars.
1. kit cost about $40+, inner tie rods ( if needed $50 each?), bellow boots $15 each, misc ( carb cleaner, rags, etc $20+)
2. first timer. maybe 3+ hours to disassemble and reassemble.
3. local auto parts sell them around $250 with lifetime warranty i believe.
Yes. LS and SC share the same rebuild kits. pretty much the same steps on the LS. slight difference due to different rack design.
ALSO UPDATED THE FIRST PAGE WITH SOME SLIGHT TWEAKS
Last edited by k7q; 03-19-13 at 10:10 PM.
03-26-13, 11:21 PM
#29
1. i don't think so, but i haven't worked on a sc with inner tie rod spacers. i doubt it, i think battle version uses spacers on his drift car. im sure that car takes a beating.
2. not sure on that, i dont want to turn this thread into a for sell thread.
07-01-13, 06:18 AM
#30
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Please help! - 90 ls400
I attempted this yesterday on 90 LS400 Rack, and am unable to get the inner seal out (once shaft is removed. All else went smooth, BUT... it looks like there's a spacer behind the inner seal, but looks like it's 1" wide (hard to tell looking down into the housing. It won't "push" out the seal, and there's NOT enough of the seal exposed to be able to knock it out. Am worried about damaging the 'spacer-looking' part in the housing behind the seal, and can't see what it will take to get that seal out.
Additionally: I gave up on the inner seal and was going to put it back together, and THEN; when trying to replace the Teflons on the steering valve, the ONLY way to get the 4th one on is to "stretch it" over the part. Well, once in-place, it looks too stretched out to reassemble/function properly.
Is there a "trick" to installing these Teflons to where they DO NOT stretch out?
Have disassembled and need car back; PLEASE ADVISE!
Additionally: I gave up on the inner seal and was going to put it back together, and THEN; when trying to replace the Teflons on the steering valve, the ONLY way to get the 4th one on is to "stretch it" over the part. Well, once in-place, it looks too stretched out to reassemble/function properly.
Is there a "trick" to installing these Teflons to where they DO NOT stretch out?
Have disassembled and need car back; PLEASE ADVISE!