Here you go guys, are you interested in these to eliminate bump steer on slammed cars?
Just finished up the design today. Three spacers to stack or more if you are really low....along with adjustable front endlinks.



front sway endlinks


trying to gauge how many to order.

 

I want both, but I prefer getting rid of my bump steer first. I'm not that low but damn I hate bump steer. I especially hate it when it's due to bad alignment grrrrr!

I'll pick tie rods and will buy the end links too when they are available.

 

Hi! can someone explain bump steer? Im not that low yet but i will be in some weeks, then i will get all these probs everyone is used to

 

FIGS, good work. I'm in for the front sway endlinks. Let me know when you are ready for production and I'll send my ppl info.

 

I'm in for tie rod ends..

 

Bump Steer is exactly what it is named. When your suspension travels up it forces a toe change and steers the car on it's own.

Lowering a car can induce bump steer as the geometry of the tie rod in relation to the control arms is now off at ride height. So to compensate for bump steer problems common methods are to space the tie rod ends to change the angle of the tie rod, sometimes the tie rod is flipped over to the other side of the spindle mount, and sometimes the steering rack can be raised.

My bagged Ranger had serious bump steer, I used a Mustang bumpsteer kit which was just a pair of longer tierod ends with spacers on it, and I also made some spacers to raise the steering rack up 1".. The combination helped get the tie rods the be parallel with the control arms (at typical ride hieght) and it made a drastic difference in both steering control and tire wear.

I'm in for both tie rod ends and endlinks but could only vote for one, it looks like my future Fig's order is gonna be bigger than I thought..

 

Here a pic of the Steeda Mustang bumpsteer rod ends I used on my truck, and an installed pic on a mustang for you guys to visualize what this part is and where it installs.

It's a tierod end replacement with a machined pin that allows spacers to be used between the spindle mounting hole and the tierod end. So you can adjust the angle of the tierod to become closer to parallel with the angle of the control arm.

 

perfect explanation!
Also sorry I forgot to allow multiple answers on the poll. So qty noted.

 

do you have pics of the bumpsteer parts yet?

 

Look at the first picture. That's what's going to help reduce bumpsteer..

 

I would be interested in the tie rods as well....will they be plain or have a finish?

 

Wait, what if you have RCA... doesn't that also help lower the car by the height without affecting bumpsteer? So for example, if you have a 1" RCA, you can lower the car by 1" and still be at oem spec.

But I'm sure ppl here are lowered way more than 1" so this would still help alot.

 

yes RCA spacers also keep the steering low, but only to the degree of the spacer. So yes if you drop it more than the spacer you will still have angle issues.

 

Keep in mind, that an RCA is spacing the lower balljoint down, which is effectively making the spindle taller - lifting the hub up about 1" / pushing the lower control arm down 1". A similar concept as a drop spindle sold for other makes of cars would do, except a drop spindle just moves the spindle bolt/hub mount up and doesn't change the overall height of the spindle.

An rca may lower the shock mount by lowering the lower arm, and may take some stress/angle off the ball joint which is good, but it is indeed changing the geometry of the front suspension because the upper and lower control arms are no longer at the same horizontal positions in relation to each other. You are opening up the angle wider which can change handling characteristics, steering, and caster.

A 1" rca is likely to have no noticeable change, but is typically coupled with large drops which can cause issues.

Bumpsteer kits usually come with a few different sizes of spacers, allowing to add a combination of sizes together to achieve the proper adjustment for different suspension installs/heights.

The other positive of an aftermarket bumpsteer kit can offer is more travel range using a heim joint instead of a typical limited range ball joint style rod end. This can take some stress off your tierod ends due to being extremely low and the joints hitting thier max angle during suspension travel and you may not even realize it, which could be shortening the life or tear the boots.


And as far as the car being in-oem-spec with just rca's, realize that getting the camber/caster/toe into oem specs sitting at ride height does not guarantee no drivability difference's or accelerated/abnormal tire wear. What the travel range does to camber/caster/toe during travel on a modified suspension can be way outside of how it would change in a oem height / oem aligned suspension. Especially if the horizontal relationships of the tie rod/controls arms/caster(radius) arm have been altered. Sway bar relation to the control arms can induce handling differences as well.


All these adjustable products that I see Figs bringing us for the 2GS is great, as ideally if you replace all the suspension parts on the car with adjustable parts or parts with larger/corrected range of motion, then you are able to dial in a very good riding car that is extremely low but can have good tire wear and not be stressing the mounting points at the max of thier usable range.

 

Your design looks quite similar to Nagisa Auto ones...