pitmanr200

I cant find a diy for this. Can I do it in increments in the same way I am doing the power steering fluid. Or will I end up having to bleed the brakes.

porn-adkt

iTrader: (37)

?????

open cap, Pour new fluid..Bleed..Pour new fluid...Bleed..Pour new fluid...Bleed. close cap

RoboRam12

To bleed the brakes correctly you need a special tool, otherwise you will mess up your ABS. And to change the fluid, you do end up having to bleed the brakes.

Dscustoms

iTrader: (3)

Just pay someone to do it, quick and easy. You can spend the money and get a pressure pot bleeder, but why bother A good machine makes the process take just a few minutes.

lyonkster

You don't need a special tool to bleed the brakes, I have done it numerous times using the standard 2-person bleed method. What you do have to do is keep the ignition on, to keep the hydraulic booster activated. The nice bonus is that with the hydraulic pump, once you open the bleeder screws and press on the brakes, the fluid flows until you release the pedal, so it's much faster than the "open bleeder - push pedal - close bleeder - release pedal - repeat" technique.

troym

Quoted for agreement/verification. It really is basically the same as anything else, just make sure the ignition is in the on position to do the rears. I did it this way, worked perfectly. Not to mention the pedal feel was much better.

SorrGwa

iTrader: (1)

the only issue i had when bleeding my system was:

- rear brakes need the acc (ignition) on, to properly bleed the rear brakes
- front brakes, using a vacuum bleeder that sucks from the bleeder screw wasnt enough. you need to turn the ignition on to charge the system. this will suck more brake fluid from the reservoir so keep an eye on the level.

RoboRam12

Well you could do that, and the fluid flows because it is trying to apply the brakes and you're letting the fluid out. It helps in the sense that it doesn't mess up the ABS, but you don't get a true bleed out of that technique.

lyonkster

Why not? What do you mean by "true bleed"? Doesn't true bleed mean getting old fluid (and any air bubbles) out, and getting new fluid in its place? How is what I said above not accomplishing that?

RoboRam12

Bleeding means just getting the air out. To bleed correctly you are supposed to change the fluid first, usually just by letting gravity do its thing with the bleeder screw open. Then do the age old bleeding procedure of opening the bleeder screw, pressing the pedal, tighten bleeder screw, release pedal, and repeat. When you just have fluid pouring out, it doesn't necessarily mean it is taking the air bubbles with it.

You're entitled to do it however you want, but that's how they my teacher taught me how to do it because it's how technicians are supposed to do it.

lyonkster

I'm always willing to learn, which is why I am asking, and not picking an argument with you. Like I said in an earlier post, I do the exact thing you stated above (bolded by me), so I don't think we are disagreeing (?). I also added that I noted that once you press the brake with the ignition on, the pump continues to push the fluid out, which accomplishes the same objective, IMO. Other than saying "that is not what I was taught", can you explain why you don't believe that this bleeds the brakes properly? I have done this several times on this car, and the pedal is perfectly firm. So I am not clear why this is not an appropriate bleed in you opinion.

BTW, I have seen more than one factory shop manual that specifies the correct bleed procedure as pressurizing the master cylinder and opening the bleed screw, letting the fluid flow out - which is nearly identical to letting the ABS pump push the fluid through the system, as I suggested above.

fordsvtmfl

iTrader: (13)

What exactly are you referring 2? I have done a ton of brake jobs at the shop and have never needed a "special tool" to bleed the brakes (unless a wrench qualifies as a special tool lol)

Greenspeed

One Way Check Valves Co2 System Aquarium Air Pump




I tried the above and worked a treat. Connect appropriate size tubing both end. Single person operation. Just make sure you orientate the valve correctly and will not let air back into the brake system. Got these valves from ebay.

Measured

iTrader: (1)

I no longer enjoy working on my car (I've done it for years) and rather enjoy what it is and pay someone to do it. I have better things to do with my car then to do basic maintenance. Just pay someone to do it and be done with it. Let me ask you this, if you encountered a issue whilst bleeding. Would you know how to deal with it?

Alexus_300

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I'm not going to comment on some of the post above because it's BS. I'm sure that those who comment about needing special tools to bleed the GS brake system must not know how the master cylinder in the GS work. The 2gen GS mates the ABS block with the master cylinder all into one. To bleed it all you would need to do is pull out about 80% of the old fluid and fill the reservoir with new fluid. Now go into the car and pump the brake pedal 5-7 times and then hold the pedal down while turning the ignition on without turning the engine over. You'll notice that the ABS system will cycle through. Now, go to the rear passenger side and open the bleeder screw to let the fluid out for 10-15 secs. Then close it and turn off the ign. letting the ABS motor cool down for a min. or so and then repeat on the driver rear with letting the ABS motor cooling down a min. in between each caliper. Whatever you do, do not let the ABS motor run more than 30-45 seconds because you will burn it out. Trust me, I've done this plenty of times when I used to tracked my GS300 and never had I ever encounter a mushy pedal.