Installing BC Coilovers Tonight--Anything I should watch for?
07-07-10, 07:25 AM
#18
The coilovers are on and the job was a breeze!!
Seriously, we were done in an hour and a half. The thing that made all the difference was the lift. Being able to get the car off the ground and work on it at eye level is really the way to do it.
I know a lot of guys say the rears are more challenging but in our case the rears were actually easier. They were a little difficult pulling out but with me hanging on the pry bar they popped right out.
We chose to disconnect the spindle on the fronts which made the fronts more time consuming but once the spindle was disconnected, the fronts came right out!
Now my problem is finding a shop that will give me a decent price on an alignment, however, I don't really know what to expect. I just talked to 2 different shops that wouldn't give me a concrete price but only said $80 per hour for coilover setting and leveling
plus $129.00 for a four-wheel alignment. I had no idea! I just talked to a shop that will do everything for $60 an hour and he thought it would take about 2-3 hours. Does that sound reasonable?
Seriously, we were done in an hour and a half. The thing that made all the difference was the lift. Being able to get the car off the ground and work on it at eye level is really the way to do it. I know a lot of guys say the rears are more challenging but in our case the rears were actually easier. They were a little difficult pulling out but with me hanging on the pry bar they popped right out.
We chose to disconnect the spindle on the fronts which made the fronts more time consuming but once the spindle was disconnected, the fronts came right out!
Now my problem is finding a shop that will give me a decent price on an alignment, however, I don't really know what to expect. I just talked to 2 different shops that wouldn't give me a concrete price but only said $80 per hour for coilover setting and leveling
plus $129.00 for a four-wheel alignment. I had no idea! I just talked to a shop that will do everything for $60 an hour and he thought it would take about 2-3 hours. Does that sound reasonable?
Last edited by fenderzig; 07-07-10 at 10:32 AM.
07-07-10, 08:06 AM
#19
Driver
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just installed the BCRs about two weeks ago. I would definitely do the leveling and settings yourself to your liking. It's not hard at all, all you need is a measuring tape and the wrenches that came with coilovers. And that price for an alignment is pretty high, I got mine done for around $75.
07-07-10, 09:40 AM
#20
What I do is count how many times I turn the bottom (lowering section). The hole where the bolt is inserted? well, just turn it 180 degree or 360 degree every time and keep the count. Do the same for each sides and it'll match up. No reason to count threads. EDIT: start out the same way so that they really match up (initialize it first LOL otherwise it may not match up eventhough u turn the same amount).
Another method is to raise the car up. drop the perch to max drop. Initialize the bottom section by turning the top section (the body of the shock), then mark it with a white marker. Use that as reference and turn the top body and make note how many times it revolves. You don't have to unbolt the bottom section.
I'm a noob at this so, there might be a better way, but no one has mentioned it.
I also went to firestone and got the lifetime alignment for 149 bux (without coupon). That way, I can get it readjusted anytime I add something to my suspension system.
Another method is to raise the car up. drop the perch to max drop. Initialize the bottom section by turning the top section (the body of the shock), then mark it with a white marker. Use that as reference and turn the top body and make note how many times it revolves. You don't have to unbolt the bottom section.
I'm a noob at this so, there might be a better way, but no one has mentioned it.
I also went to firestone and got the lifetime alignment for 149 bux (without coupon). That way, I can get it readjusted anytime I add something to my suspension system.
Last edited by sam430; 07-07-10 at 09:53 AM.
07-07-10, 10:31 AM
#21
I just installed the BCRs about two weeks ago. I would definitely do the leveling and settings yourself to your liking. It's not hard at all, all you need is a measuring tape and the wrenches that came with coilovers. And that price for an alignment is pretty high, I got mine done for around $75.
What I do is count how many times I turn the bottom (lowering section). The hole where the bolt is inserted? well, just turn it 180 degree or 360 degree every time and keep the count. Do the same for each sides and it'll match up. No reason to count threads. EDIT: start out the same way so that they really match up (initialize it first LOL otherwise it may not match up eventhough u turn the same amount).
Another method is to raise the car up. drop the perch to max drop. Initialize the bottom section by turning the top section (the body of the shock), then mark it with a white marker. Use that as reference and turn the top body and make note how many times it revolves. You don't have to unbolt the bottom section.
I'm a noob at this so, there might be a better way, but no one has mentioned it.
I also went to firestone and got the lifetime alignment for 149 bux (without coupon). That way, I can get it readjusted anytime I add something to my suspension system.
Another method is to raise the car up. drop the perch to max drop. Initialize the bottom section by turning the top section (the body of the shock), then mark it with a white marker. Use that as reference and turn the top body and make note how many times it revolves. You don't have to unbolt the bottom section.
I'm a noob at this so, there might be a better way, but no one has mentioned it.
I also went to firestone and got the lifetime alignment for 149 bux (without coupon). That way, I can get it readjusted anytime I add something to my suspension system.
07-07-10, 05:09 PM
#23
I hadn't really thought about a lifetime alignment but that sounds pretty good. Did Firestone do a good job? I've heard some nightmares about taking our cars to chain shops who don't necessarily specialize in alignments but I have no real experience to back that up. Have you been happy?
+1... Let's see some pics!
07-07-10, 08:00 PM
#25
Driver
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: ON
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow 1.5hrs is very good.
It took me way longer on my GS300.....
The upper control arm had to be disconnected on one side to get the old strut out.
The rears had to take off the LCA camber bolt to let the suspension sag down and take the old one off and also had to undo the rear swaybar.
It took me way longer on my GS300.....
The upper control arm had to be disconnected on one side to get the old strut out.
The rears had to take off the LCA camber bolt to let the suspension sag down and take the old one off and also had to undo the rear swaybar.
07-09-10, 06:59 PM
#26
. My wheels just arrived on Wednesday and now I'm down in the sunny state of Florida with the family enjoying some needed vacation so I won't be able to get the wheels on until the 19th but as soon as I do, I'll snap some pics and introduce my car to the forum as I haven't taken ANY pics yet and I know how important they are . I raised up the back and didn't touch the front but I will when the new wheels go on in two weeks before the alignment.Wow 1.5hrs is very good.
It took me way longer on my GS300.....
The upper control arm had to be disconnected on one side to get the old strut out.
The rears had to take off the LCA camber bolt to let the suspension sag down and take the old one off and also had to undo the rear swaybar.
It took me way longer on my GS300.....
The upper control arm had to be disconnected on one side to get the old strut out.
The rears had to take off the LCA camber bolt to let the suspension sag down and take the old one off and also had to undo the rear swaybar.
07-09-10, 07:03 PM
#27
Here's something else that might be beneficial to some guys out there. I contacted BC Racing today just to make sure that I know how to adjust the ride height on the coilovers. They sent me some really helpful information that I thought I'd post up here in the event that someone else needs good information on how to adjust BC Racing coilovers and reset the spring rate. Here's what they sent me...Thanks to Mike at BC Racing and Tristan at Circuit Motorsports for their help
The proper way to set preload
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring (top) and spring lock ring (bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 5mm gap between the two rings, you have 5mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
Height Adjustments
-Be sure the top ring (spring seat) and bottom ring (spring lock ring) under the spring is locked against each other.
-Loosen the bottom ring spinning it up to a desired height. Measure the distance for reference on the opposite side.
-To lower the car use the spanner wrenches that come with the kit turn the top ring (spring seat) starting from the right and turning the ring to the left. To raise the car use the smaller wrench on the second lock ring doing the opposite.
-After you achieve your desired height make sure to tighten the lower lock ring.
*A-Arm Suspension - be sure to leave at least 25mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
*McPherson Suspension - be sure to leave at least 80mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
BC RACING NORTH AMERICA
1-407-637-2941 TEL
1-800-741-1972 FAX
AIM - BC RACING NA
The proper way to set preload
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring (top) and spring lock ring (bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 5mm gap between the two rings, you have 5mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
Height Adjustments
-Be sure the top ring (spring seat) and bottom ring (spring lock ring) under the spring is locked against each other.
-Loosen the bottom ring spinning it up to a desired height. Measure the distance for reference on the opposite side.
-To lower the car use the spanner wrenches that come with the kit turn the top ring (spring seat) starting from the right and turning the ring to the left. To raise the car use the smaller wrench on the second lock ring doing the opposite.
-After you achieve your desired height make sure to tighten the lower lock ring.
*A-Arm Suspension - be sure to leave at least 25mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
*McPherson Suspension - be sure to leave at least 80mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
BC RACING NORTH AMERICA
1-407-637-2941 TEL
1-800-741-1972 FAX
AIM - BC RACING NA
07-10-10, 12:51 AM
#28
Here's something else that might be beneficial to some guys out there. I contacted BC Racing today just to make sure that I know how to adjust the ride height on the coilovers. They sent me some really helpful information that I thought I'd post up here in the event that someone else needs good information on how to adjust BC Racing coilovers and reset the spring rate. Here's what they sent me...Thanks to Mike at BC Racing and Tristan at Circuit Motorsports for their help
The proper way to set preload
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring (top) and spring lock ring (bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 5mm gap between the two rings, you have 5mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
Height Adjustments
-Be sure the top ring (spring seat) and bottom ring (spring lock ring) under the spring is locked against each other.
-Loosen the bottom ring spinning it up to a desired height. Measure the distance for reference on the opposite side.
-To lower the car use the spanner wrenches that come with the kit turn the top ring (spring seat) starting from the right and turning the ring to the left. To raise the car use the smaller wrench on the second lock ring doing the opposite.
-After you achieve your desired height make sure to tighten the lower lock ring.
*A-Arm Suspension - be sure to leave at least 25mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
*McPherson Suspension - be sure to leave at least 80mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
BC RACING NORTH AMERICA
1-407-637-2941 TEL
1-800-741-1972 FAX
AIM - BC RACING NA
The proper way to set preload
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring (top) and spring lock ring (bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 5mm gap between the two rings, you have 5mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
Height Adjustments
-Be sure the top ring (spring seat) and bottom ring (spring lock ring) under the spring is locked against each other.
-Loosen the bottom ring spinning it up to a desired height. Measure the distance for reference on the opposite side.
-To lower the car use the spanner wrenches that come with the kit turn the top ring (spring seat) starting from the right and turning the ring to the left. To raise the car use the smaller wrench on the second lock ring doing the opposite.
-After you achieve your desired height make sure to tighten the lower lock ring.
*A-Arm Suspension - be sure to leave at least 25mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
*McPherson Suspension - be sure to leave at least 80mm of threaded body inside the lower bracket for safety
BC RACING NORTH AMERICA
1-407-637-2941 TEL
1-800-741-1972 FAX
AIM - BC RACING NA
I want to add to the height adjustment, use a nail polish or paint to mark the unused thread or one of ring, make not of it when you turn it to adjust height so you can have reference without having to measure height (you would have to initially line up the heights first to make this method more effective).
As far as lifetime alignment, it's sufficient. I will try to go one up and do corner balance and proper alignment once I like the stance. I'll record the adjustment (especially when it's expensive to do) with markers so I can return it to that position just in case I wanna mess around with height and preload later on.
07-10-10, 10:52 AM
#29
Keep in mind the preloading that BC recommends is good enough for most people. There is no right or wrong preload setting because it all depends on application. 
And lifetime alignment FTW! Can't remember how many times I've done it, but I'm sure I've gotten my money's worth.
And lifetime alignment FTW! Can't remember how many times I've done it, but I'm sure I've gotten my money's worth.
07-10-10, 12:52 PM
#30
Question. I lowered the car 1 1/4 all around without messing with the preload. Now the right side is lower, as in the frame of the body is tilt down more on the right side. Is that how it's suppose to be? Or am I suppose to adjust the coils somehow to make both side even?
