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IS250 AWD - After lowering springs

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Old 05-04-16, 04:48 PM
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Bkhectic
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Anyone with a fix. It's 2016 lol still looking for an answer.
Old 05-05-16, 08:09 AM
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DraiZe66
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Originally Posted by Bkhectic
Anyone with a fix. It's 2016 lol still looking for an answer.
I just lowered my awd last month and did tons n tons of research on posts from 2006 til 2016 lol no new answers. I think only answer is that you just can't go that low on a awd. I only went down like 1.4 and have very very minimal vibration. Good thing is that I didn't find any posts about the vibration actually breaking anythng. I think it's something just have to live with.
Old 05-16-16, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DraiZe66
I just lowered my awd last month and did tons n tons of research on posts from 2006 til 2016 lol no new answers. I think only answer is that you just can't go that low on a awd. I only went down like 1.4 and have very very minimal vibration. Good thing is that I didn't find any posts about the vibration actually breaking anythng. I think it's something just have to live with.
Yeah I hear you. As long as it doesn't break anything it's alright I guess the only thing that annoys me is the Lil shake from 0-20 on the take off. I used to think that it needed wheel alignment or balancing and still after would get the same Lil issue. I'm glad to know it's just for lowering and it's really not bad. So you dropped 1.4? Are you on h&r sport Springs? That's what I have and it's 1.4 for me as well.
Old 05-17-16, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bkhectic
Yeah I hear you. As long as it doesn't break anything it's alright I guess the only thing that annoys me is the Lil shake from 0-20 on the take off. I used to think that it needed wheel alignment or balancing and still after would get the same Lil issue. I'm glad to know it's just for lowering and it's really not bad. So you dropped 1.4? Are you on h&r sport Springs? That's what I have and it's 1.4 for me as well.
I went with the Eibach springs for is250. 1.4 front 1 inch rear. H n r is slightly more drop overall. I had very very small wobble 0-20 on take off. It came and went. I actually just put staggered 19 inch on the car and don't feel the wobble at all ever. Go figure lol I think only thing have to watch is Cv boot leaks. I check mine every so often and nothing yet. Awd is a pain to mod. Won't be buying one again lol
Old 05-18-16, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DraiZe66
I went with the Eibach springs for is250. 1.4 front 1 inch rear. H n r is slightly more drop overall. I had very very small wobble 0-20 on take off. It came and went. I actually just put staggered 19 inch on the car and don't feel the wobble at all ever. Go figure lol I think only thing have to watch is Cv boot leaks. I check mine every so often and nothing yet. Awd is a pain to mod. Won't be buying one again lol
Same thing I just told a coworker the other day. I won't be buying another awd in the future for modding. I was so close to staggering my new set of wheels but after all these Lil issues I said nah let me go the safe way and look at that it worked for you. Let us know later on if this wobble comes back.
Old 06-05-16, 04:10 PM
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for AWD is250, it shakes with aftermarket rims and tires, their strut is already stiff, you have to wait for the springs to settle, why don't you get Coilovers or a good new strut ? you don't want your springs to get settle on an old stock strut !

After i replaced strut and lowering springs from TRD to Tokiko blue/ AG spring, i fell like i was ride a horse lol it got better after 6 months, never lower a car on an old OEM Strut.
Old 06-06-16, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyIS250
for AWD is250, it shakes with aftermarket rims and tires, their strut is already stiff, you have to wait for the springs to settle, why don't you get Coilovers or a good new strut ? you don't want your springs to get settle on an old stock strut !

After i replaced strut and lowering springs from TRD to Tokiko blue/ AG spring, i fell like i was ride a horse lol it got better after 6 months, never lower a car on an old OEM Strut.
For a budget build what spring and shock combo is good?
Old 06-06-16, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by IamLexus
For a budget build what spring and shock combo is good?
Believe me coilovers don't cost you that much, look when you lower a car with lowering spring on whatever strut/shock you need to replace the new Strut mount or you'll get some annoying noise when making a turn, ok here you buy at least good strut with good spring + strut mounts = total more $$$ than you buy a set of Coilovers, when you mod a car don't be cheap on part or you'll regret, trust me bro i lowered cars for ages, you can see Engineer explains on Youtube Coilovers is the way to Lower a car. i'm not saying lowering Spring is bad but spring always brings you problem and headache waste time and Labor $$$

Unless you're car is an old Civic or Toyota Solara like mine and you don't wanna spend that much, with a Lexus bro ? go with Coilovers.

It's fine if you don't wanna replace strut mount etc but you gotta get to use with clunky and popping noise, won't effect your handling its just noice when go over a bump. i never replace strut mount on my Toyota Solara its 2001 Strut mounts are from 1999 OEM Toyota Factory, noise gone after 3 years lol i don't know why.....
Old 06-06-16, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by RandyIS250
Believe me coilovers don't cost you that much, look when you lower a car with lowering spring on whatever strut/shock you need to replace the new Strut mount or you'll get some annoying noise when making a turn, ok here you buy at least good strut with good spring + strut mounts = total more $$$ than you buy a set of Coilovers, when you mod a car don't be cheap on part or you'll regret, trust me bro i lowered cars for ages, you can see Engineer explains on Youtube Coilovers is the way to Lower a car. i'm not saying lowering Spring is bad but spring always brings you problem and headache waste time and Labor $$$

Unless you're car is an old Civic or Toyota Solara like mine and you don't wanna spend that much, with a Lexus bro ? go with Coilovers.

It's fine if you don't wanna replace strut mount etc but you gotta get to use with clunky and popping noise, won't effect your handling its just noice when go over a bump. i never replace strut mount on my Toyota Solara its 2001 Strut mounts are from 1999 OEM Toyota Factory, noise gone after 3 years lol i don't know why.....
Thanks for the info, which coilovers are good? I heard majority of the people on here are using BC Coilovers.
Old 06-07-16, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by IamLexus
Thanks for the info, which coilovers are good? I heard majority of the people on here are using BC Coilovers.
BC product is Taiwanese, go with famous name like Megan or Tein S TRD Eibach F Sport OEM, these companies are in business for over 20 years,, BC coil brand is so new its up to you though, i see a lot members here have their car lowered with BC coil, remember whenever you lower a car get Camber kit and alignment, you must have camber kit or best handling.
Old 06-11-16, 07:50 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by DraiZe66
I just lowered my awd last month and did tons n tons of research on posts from 2006 til 2016 lol no new answers. I think only answer is that you just can't go that low on a awd. I only went down like 1.4 and have very very minimal vibration. Good thing is that I didn't find any posts about the vibration actually breaking anythng. I think it's something just have to live with.
i havn't got time to read lately, Alright its Saturday i have time, i just finished reading the whole thread, lemme explain especially for AWD vehicles.

1, minor vibration at low or high speeds, this usually happens when you have bad tires, rims or after new alignment, most likely tires causes that, doesn't matter your tires are brand new, the makers are human being like us mistake might happen in 1 out of 1000 no one is perfect, also vibrate after suspension alternation especially ALL WHEEL DRIVE very damn headache if you dont buy the specifically exclusive springs, you can see the height of both RWD AND AWD are different, when Engineer designs they tested it for compatible, check YOutube Engineer explains, i suggest change your Dif and Trans case fluid drive for a week before doing an alignment tell the mechanic to check every suspension component, right now i see H&R Springs made lowering springs for AWD 250 lexus, for Coilovers, BC Coilovers and Megan, don't be cheap because you are driving a LEXUS not Lex s h i t" , minor vibration after suspension changed is normal its ok it won't cause anything serious, people too worry about little thing, you guys are lucky nowadays there Google and YOutube, we did not have these in the 90s and late 80s, before no airbad no snowtires no Auto transmission all standard and we drove like a pro !

2, Do we need Camber kit after lower a car ? definitely YES WE DO ! negative camber may cause wheel rub against strut positive camber may rub against fender that's why some have their fender rolled, if you notice when you lower your car on an aftermarket wheel and switch them to OEM wheel you'll see the difference between noise and shake. Well you also get screw up with your tires they will wear out weird (prematurely worn out) you'll notice after 8 months or a year. i've checked other day our is250 AWD have Camber Toe and Caster, camber kit is expensive for our AWD car, control arms front and toe alignments rears cost about 1000$ + 1000$ BC coilovers + 400$ installation and alignment that 2500$ Canadian dollars.

My wife is a car enthusiast she told me to lower the is250 AWD i told hell no or you give me 3000$ she agreed with that but i'm kinda 50/50

3, Brake and rotors, some mechanics and drivers thought rotors causes vibration, damn that's wrong, seized Caliper makes car to pull to one side, warp rotor makes steering wheel shake and pull when APPLY THE BRAKE ONLY. what makes your rotor warp ? when you travel long trip your brake and rotor gets hot and usually people go wash their car and spray water on the wheel after their trip, that makes your rotor warp, don't do that, do car wash on Saturday Morning you jump out of your bed,

4, Lowering and Aftermarket wheel, lower a car is like you changing NEW WIFE, everything will be tighter and stiffer of course difference ride feel, she will be better or worse that's your fate, wait till spring gets settle and you gotta get use to it, if your lower on spring you gotta get performance strut and mount like TOKICO or Billsteins CUT YOUR BUMP STOP TOO don't forget always new strut mount and bushing/endlnks. Wheel alternation, unless OEM otherwise when you have aftermarket rims you'll experience with vibration AT LOW AND HIGH SPEED no matter what ! you want your aftermarket wheel to match with Lexus OEM wheel ? that never going to happen boyz, you don't go beyond god ! once Suspension settled everything will be fine. Actually you can go beyond god if you willing to spend 4000$ on Pro Rims and Best Tires, not me i like lowball . a friend of mine has ENKEI RIMS and CONTINENTAL Tires on his 2009 is250 AWD they looked awesome on our lexus for god shake ! (235/40/18 offset 35) rims are 18x9 .

Change your wheel size ? stay within OEM spec at all cost or else you'll get braking and speed error, peoples always complaint why my car like this why my car like that after lowered etc. wheel also important too, tight your lug nuts properly, inflake air at the right PSI, the guy brought his car over and complaint why my car have slightly pull after puttin aftermarket rims on with low pro tire, i asked him how much PSI you put on your tires, he said 32psi ahhh F. you, 38 max 40 PSI for aftermarket wheel ! pump him up with 38 psi and the pull gone ! alright **** i'm talking too much

ok for 2006-2011 is250 aftermarket wheel suggestion for Cons and pros . go 225/40/18 offset 40 . 235/40/18 offset 35 , if you stay with rim 17" you can go up to 245/40/17 and 255/40/17 same offset as above, i don't recommend 19 wheel cause the ride will be crapped. for AWD, TIRES and RIMS MUCH BE THE SAME BRAND NAME and MADE SAME SIZE SAME PSI or your transmission and trans/Dif cases will be screwed, replace tires ? replace 4 brand new tires at once, again don't be cheap its Lexus and AWD you don't want to spend 5000$ to replace the transmission. this increases your SAFETY to the highest lvl .

PS: i almost forget, every aftermarket rim with different OEM HUB size needs "Hub Cap" its the ring between your rim HUB and OEM hub, most aftermarket rims hub are 73" our is250 are 62" you need that ring Cap to fill up the gap some expensive aftermarket rims made specific for OEM then that you don't need. Its important to have the hub centric ring or your car WILL GET VIBRATE or damage the HUB centric, most of mechanic tells Oh you don't need ( F that, yes we do need) Oh you don't need Camber kit after lower a car, oh F that too, yes we do)

Usually people talks for their car and their idea everyone wants other to have samething like him/her they don't speak the truth in general, they speak their car in particular . don't be cheap for MODDING a car do it right or don't do it at all
This is just my own experience, correct me if there mistaken in the post, no one and no mechanic or bodyshop is perfect and my English is crappy because English isn't my 1st language.

Last edited by RandyIS250; 06-11-16 at 08:56 AM.
Old 06-11-16, 10:14 AM
  #72  
Nixcision
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BC is the parent company to Megan, they come out of the same factory fyi.

I slammed my is250 awd and am doing it again this month, and the vibration is something you have to live with and understand it comes with the game.
The only "fix" that I've installed were the SAGE RCA blocks which allow you to lower your car without actually "lowering" your car.
Old 06-11-16, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Nixcision
BC is the parent company to Megan, they come out of the same factory fyi.

I slammed my is250 awd and am doing it again this month, and the vibration is something you have to live with and understand it comes with the game.
The only "fix" that I've installed were the SAGE RCA blocks which allow you to lower your car without actually "lowering" your car.
oh really ? BC and Megan = family ? nice, ya for real once you mod the suspension you have to live with whatever it takes
Old 02-19-17, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Stokeless
I did some research but didn't find much info.

After I installed my road magnet lowering springs, I noticed at very low speed 0-20 mph the car shake's a little after 20 mph it goes away. is this normal??
what can I do to fix this?
I installed the springs myself and have done other cars before so I know I installed them correctly.... hopefully.
here is a quick pic after the drop. I really like the drop.

can I lower my is250 awd wearing the regular shocks with the springs you have? Or not?
Old 09-02-21, 10:11 AM
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Default Lowering springs?

Originally Posted by RandyIS250
for AWD is250, it shakes with aftermarket rims and tires, their strut is already stiff, you have to wait for the springs to settle, why don't you get Coilovers or a good new strut ? you don't want your springs to get settle on an old stock strut !

After i replaced strut and lowering springs from TRD to Tokiko blue/ AG spring, i fell like i was ride a horse lol it got better after 6 months, never lower a car on an old OEM Strut.
Hey guys! So I am replacing my struts and have been wanting to lower my 2011 Lexus IS250 AWD so I figured I would lower it when I do the struts, I was looking for the best springs to use when I came across this thread. I was thinking the Tokikos, sounds like that's what you used,, do you recommend them? I am definitely uneasy about lowering my car now though especially after reading about everyone having issues with vibrations after lowering the awd.

Any input or advice you guys have for me is much appreciated! Thank you!
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