DIY - Daizen Caster Arm Bushing Installation - lots of pics!
10-09-13, 08:55 AM
#211
See this image for better depiction
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
I'm overdue 
11-12-13, 12:01 PM
#213
LCA #1 is the one that connects from the engine cradle to the knuckle through the LBJ.
LCA#2 is the one the connects #1 to the chassis brace on the body. LCA #2 bolts to LCA#1 right where the shock mounts to LCA#1.
This picture is for #2.
LCA#2 is the one the connects #1 to the chassis brace on the body. LCA #2 bolts to LCA#1 right where the shock mounts to LCA#1.
This picture is for #2.
11-21-13, 10:56 AM
#214
I replaced my lbj's, inner tie rods, sway bar end links, brakes, rotors, tires, and I'm still getting a clunk over bumps, climbed under the car my bushings look like yours their like nothing left, all chewed away, this HAS to be my clunking problem over bumps, I'm ordering these this weekend can't wait!
11-25-13, 08:45 AM
#216
I drive a slammed GS400 would the figs be worth the extra cash compared to the other regular bushings out there? I know bushings are important but $155 for the castor bushings are a lot, I just bought all my daizens for $120 but I know the daizens aren't too great for the castor arm so I'm looking for a replacement that doesn't cost too much.
11-25-13, 01:23 PM
#218
yeah reason why I ask because I have heard the daizen's die in a couple years. I wen't over all my bushings in the car right now and they are actually all still good, so I may just take the car to the alignment place, see what their input on getting the alignment would be and if they say the bushings are still good, ill just run those until they die and keep the bushings for when they do start going out, previous owner has replaced them pretty recent, I saw my uppers were done when i threw my coils on. when my mechanic and I checked it out, we both saw that there isn't much play, the wheel was just not centered.
12-10-13, 09:27 AM
#219
Hey guys. I think I mite have the answer to the clunk. I have a silver 98 GS400. I've replaced every front end component that you guys mention. Upper, both lower control arms, sway bar links, rack bushings, lower ball joints, experimented with daizen bushings & still had the clunk. My clunk went away 2yrs ago when I replaced my rack & pinion. Then after replacing the rack, found out inner tie rods will cause clunk. Still to this day & 238k miles later. Still running strong & no more CLUNK!
12-13-13, 11:19 PM
#221
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GSteg -- FIGS 4-piece urethane worked out great? Did you install the FIGS 4-piece into the arm first and then install the arm in the car? (asking in case there was a chance that you installed the arm in first, then installed the FIGS 4-piece into the arm to avoid difficulty--though I'm not sure if it can be done that way?) And how easy?
(I'm debating whether I should go w/ FIGS 4-piece or Sewell arm w/ pre-installed bushing cause I kinda need to have it done in one shot, in and out of the shop in as little time as possible. I'm also trying to avoid re-installation difficulties when putting the caster arm back in, as I've heard other DIYers have had. Anyone found a quick-and-easy to install a Sewell caster arm w/ pre-installed bushing?)
Also, thanks to all those that have contributed to this thread, and to original post.
12-17-13, 09:34 PM
#222
GSteg -- FIGS 4-piece urethane worked out great? Did you install the FIGS 4-piece into the arm first and then install the arm in the car? (asking in case there was a chance that you installed the arm in first, then installed the FIGS 4-piece into the arm to avoid difficulty--though I'm not sure if it can be done that way?) And how easy?
The arms must be removed in order to install the FIGS. You have to press out the old bushings.
The Sewell is the same design as the Daizen and pressing these bushings in is a heck lot harder than the FIGS. The only advantage the Daizen has over the FIGs is the price. Other than that, there is no reason why you shouldn't spend a bit more for a better engineered part. Honestly, the Daizen felt harsh and I expect the same for the Sewell bushings. The FIGS feel closer to OEM than the Daizen. Sometimes I forget that I have polyurethane bushings just because they allow deflections rather than having all that energy transmitted into the cabin.
When I installed the arms back into the car, I removed the lower shock bolt so the suspension can move freely. Disconnect one end of the sway bar too.
12-18-13, 06:44 AM
#225
