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Supra TT 4pod brake caliper VS 95-00 LS400 4pod brake caliper, DIFFERENCE?

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Old 01-01-10, 06:40 PM
  #31  
GSteg
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There is no need for brackets. The calipers sit where they should be.
Old 01-05-10, 11:02 AM
  #32  
Sash1mi
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Im considering of going with the LS400 bbk up front myself, its about that time since I had my car.

Dara

Last edited by Sash1mi; 01-05-10 at 12:05 PM.
Old 01-05-10, 12:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by SorrGwa
the location for the bolt holes is exact the same as the GS, however, since i havent mounted my set of calipers yet, i wasnt sure if they would sit perfectly center when they are mounted on the LS rotors, the bolt locations might be exact, but not sure if the hub assembly spacing is exact.

its like aftermarket big brake kits, they almost always, such as the baer brakes, come with shims so that when u put them on the car, you can fine tune the caliper location so that when u apply the braking force, its evenly spaced applied on both sides of the rotor.
In case I was not clear, the LS400 caliper/rotor are a bolt on set up, with one caveat. In order to prevent interference, you will need to either cut off a small part of the tip of the steering bolt with a Dremel OR add RCA's to get the clearance, which in turn means you will ALSO need coilovers in order to adjust the car back to the original ride height, since installing the RCA's drop the front of the car about an inch.

Disclaimer: Cutting the tip of the bolt is done so at your own risk.

Last edited by RMMGS4; 01-05-10 at 12:58 PM.
Old 01-05-10, 09:28 PM
  #34  
5t341th
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anyone got a pic of the cut?
i want to see what needs to be cut.
TIA
Old 01-12-10, 09:30 PM
  #35  
SorrGwa
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forgot to ask, did any of you guys that did the swap need to trim the brake dust cover on the back of the rotor?
Old 01-12-10, 09:32 PM
  #36  
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i wasnt concerned with the part of cutting the bolt on the tie rod or running RCA's. i have RCA's already which means i already have coilovers, as lowering the car, i needed the RCA's to adjust my camber at least closer to spec.

my concern was how the caliper sits on center relative to the rotor. but if you said its a direct bolt on, then it will sit center then =)

now this got me wondering about the brake dust shield behind the rotor. if the lip of the shield needs to be trimed or pushed back because of the larger disc rotor.


Originally Posted by RMMGS4
In case I was not clear, the LS400 caliper/rotor are a bolt on set up, with one caveat. In order to prevent interference, you will need to either cut off a small part of the tip of the steering bolt with a Dremel OR add RCA's to get the clearance, which in turn means you will ALSO need coilovers in order to adjust the car back to the original ride height, since installing the RCA's drop the front of the car about an inch.

Disclaimer: Cutting the tip of the bolt is done so at your own risk.
Old 01-12-10, 09:48 PM
  #37  
sam430
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I had to bend my shield to make it fit. Also, I had an extra thick rotor and it still warped I guess I am too aggressive.
Old 01-12-10, 11:15 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by SorrGwa
i wasnt concerned with the part of cutting the bolt on the tie rod or running RCA's. i have RCA's already which means i already have coilovers, as lowering the car, i needed the RCA's to adjust my camber at least closer to spec.

my concern was how the caliper sits on center relative to the rotor. but if you said its a direct bolt on, then it will sit center then =)

now this got me wondering about the brake dust shield behind the rotor. if the lip of the shield needs to be trimed or pushed back because of the larger disc rotor.
Ahhh it's been a while, but you're right, I removed the dust shield by cutting it out. You could trim it with a dremel and leave part of it, or bend it back.

Last edited by RMMGS4; 01-12-10 at 11:26 PM.
Old 01-12-10, 11:25 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 5t341th
anyone got a pic of the cut?
i want to see what needs to be cut.
TIA
I took a pic loooong ago but no where to be found.

All I can say is that I did a 45 degree cut that went through the top of the bolt and cut into part of the nut. As long as the cotter pin was still in place I felt it was "ok" to cut partially into it. People need to make their own judgement if they should do this.
Old 01-12-10, 11:28 PM
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So bending back the dust shield could work also? I dont want to cut anything.
Old 01-13-10, 12:03 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DPromGS
So bending back the dust shield could work also? I dont want to cut anything.
It looks like sam430 bent it back successfully.
Old 01-13-10, 06:10 AM
  #42  
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cool, just waiting for the rest of the parts to come in, bought all the oem pieces off sewell (pins, springs, bolts...) just waiting for my ebc rotors and pads, which should be here in about a weeks time.
Old 01-14-10, 08:21 PM
  #43  
tom steele
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autozone or pepboys you can get calipers there just turn in your old calipers another day so they cant compare them!!!! there about 95 per caliper plus 65 core but you get the 65 back with your old ones. and ebay has calipers if your not racing there fine. you will need some sort of rca for clearance though. dont shave the ball joint stud like some say to do or else it gets ruined has soon has you go to remove for alignment.
Old 01-14-10, 08:22 PM
  #44  
tom steele
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yes i just trimmed my dust cover with a cut off wheel
Old 01-14-10, 11:45 PM
  #45  
sam430
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yes, you can bend them. I actually fold them like you would fold a napkin *with the help of a hammer*.



no cutting necessary.


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