Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

Official Lexus SC Coilover Thread

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Old 05-02-11, 06:10 PM
  #46  
2slowsc300
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16k/10k an 18k/12k I think somebody will yell at me if im wrong lol
Old 05-06-11, 11:10 AM
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Meanshyguy
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So the higher the spring rate the softer the ride or the other way around? I need to know of a good spring rate for a comfortable ride.
Old 05-06-11, 05:44 PM
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2slowsc300
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Originally Posted by Meanshyguy
So the higher the spring rate the softer the ride or the other way around? I need to know of a good spring rate for a comfortable ride.
lower rate softer ride
Old 05-06-11, 09:38 PM
  #49  
pieisgude
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If you order BCR coils, without doing custom spring rates, make sure to go with the Supra one. It comes with 14k/10k, instead of i believe 12k/8k.
Old 05-07-11, 07:14 AM
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2slowsc300
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Pm CircuitMS they sell coilovers an ask him what you need to know he will be very helpful
Old 05-07-11, 12:57 PM
  #51  
2slowsc300
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Fenders rolled n pics updated




Old 05-11-11, 07:13 AM
  #52  
scslow
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ive been looking around and from experience with the 240's circuit sports have been the best. on the sofest setting they are stiffer then ksports and most other coilovers, has anyone had any experience with these on a sc? 14kgs/12kgs
Old 05-12-11, 01:56 PM
  #53  
bigz187
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Originally Posted by pieisgude
If you order BCR coils, without doing custom spring rates, make sure to go with the Supra one. It comes with 14k/10k, instead of i believe 12k/8k.
Just placed my order for 14k/ 8k. Sounds good?
Old 11-01-11, 10:55 AM
  #54  
MGa
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I got some BC Racing BR-series coils 14/8k (which is what BCR suggests for tha SC)
When I put them in without touching the settings the front tires where eating my fenders of on bumbs, they are way too soft.
Had to raise the car like 25-30mm before I could drive it fast on bumby roads.
And my front tires are 225/35-19 on a 19*8 ET30 wheel.

But I have a qestion for people who no about coils.
It said in the BCR manual that I shouldn't touch the spring preload rings at all and just adjust the dampening from the top **** and the height by releasing the locking ring from the bottom and turning the lower end of the coil.
But I notised that if I make the front coils or the rear both the same width the cars fender are not on the same height measured of the ground.
Of course I would like that the distance from the ground to the fender lining would be the sama on both sides otherwise it will look stupid. So I have to make the other coil a lot longer than the other, is this right or does this have some effect on the ride?

I also changed the front lower control arms and haven't got an alignment done yet should I first adjust the height to the way I want and then get the alignment?

One more question.
After I changed the steering rack bushings the steering is a little bit to the right when driving straight do I have to fix this by opening the steering rack again and moving it a little or can the fix this some other way when I get the alignment done.

I'm in kind of hurry to get this all done because it's time to put the studded winter tires on soon in Finland.
Also putting in the Supras Torsen LSD before it starts snowing in here =)

Thanks a million fellow CL members!
Old 11-01-11, 02:20 PM
  #55  
Dv8
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Not sure what your getting at about the ride height stuff. I personally think 14/8kg is too soft for the z30 chassis for those of us who want to be low and drive our cars hard. That said, leave your spring preload alone, I get the collars fairly snug on the springs then tighten the lock collar. If you want a stiffer ride get 16/10kg swift springs.

The front and rear coilovers arent going to be the same length, BUT the right and left FRONT must be the same length, and right and left REAR must be the same length as each other. That's as simple as measuring from the top hat of the coilover to the top of the threaded lower coil mount. Even out the sides, then adjust front and rear height. Wait until you've adjusted the cars ride height completely until you get an alignment. The alignment should also sort out the turned steering wheel from the rack bushings.
Old 11-02-11, 02:32 AM
  #56  
MGa
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Originally Posted by Dv8
Not sure what your getting at about the ride height stuff. I personally think 14/8kg is too soft for the z30 chassis for those of us who want to be low and drive our cars hard. That said, leave your spring preload alone, I get the collars fairly snug on the springs then tighten the lock collar. If you want a stiffer ride get 16/10kg swift springs.

The front and rear coilovers arent going to be the same length, BUT the right and left FRONT must be the same length, and right and left REAR must be the same length as each other. That's as simple as measuring from the top hat of the coilover to the top of the threaded lower coil mount. Even out the sides, then adjust front and rear height. Wait until you've adjusted the cars ride height completely until you get an alignment. The alignment should also sort out the turned steering wheel from the rack bushings.
I've been so stupid

Yes I notised that the 14/8 is way too soft to be running low, so I just have to keep the car a little higher, because I don't want a rock hard suspension oh and also the speedbumbs, dead animals on the road, ice blocks, snow etc hitting my newly painted car is not an option
So I just have to make a sacrifice on the ride height.

But now I get how to set up the coils right, thanks for your answer!

There is also a great video on youtube about corner weights if I would like to go all high end on the suspension tuning, but I don't have access on a set of scales for the car
Check it out http://youtu.be/N89-Pr4jCpc?t=4m20s

I think I will just have to adjust the fronts and the rears to be same length and go with that.
Anyone know about the corner weights on a stock -97 SC400 ? How is it balanced from the factory?

Has anyone done a proper setup for their coilovers by measuring the corner weights?
Would be really nice to know if you can feel the difference or is it just for racing purposes and doesn't matter in normal street driving
Old 11-03-11, 04:17 PM
  #57  
peelsSC300
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After seeing that video, I'm pretty sure I lowered my car the wrong way. Instead of adjusting the lower nut, I adjusted the top two. I lowered them pretty low too. Could I have mess anything up? Or did I just change my spring load? It's been like this for about 3 weeks, the car still drives good and doesn't bottom out over bumps. Is it safe to leave it that way it is? Or should I raise the top two bolts and change the bottom one?
Old 11-03-11, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by peelsSC300
After seeing that video, I'm pretty sure I lowered my car the wrong way. Instead of adjusting the lower nut, I adjusted the top two. I lowered them pretty low too. Could I have mess anything up? Or did I just change my spring load? It's been like this for about 3 weeks, the car still drives good and doesn't bottom out over bumps. Is it safe to leave it that way it is? Or should I raise the top two bolts and change the bottom one?
You should use the bottom adjustment first in order to maintain maximum suspension/shock travel while still have a lowered car. Not enough suspension travel would result in a bumpier ride.
Old 05-20-13, 09:55 PM
  #59  
941tuned
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I have 245/45 tires with 19" ADR wheels on my 93 sc400 and I wanted to lower it, but not a ridiculous amount. What is the minimum and maximum distance that coilovers will lower a car?
Old 05-21-13, 12:49 AM
  #60  
Davidddd
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Stance 18k front 12k rear. A little bit on the soft side for me but a hell of a lot stiffer than my previous megan ez.
Will update with full car shot this weekend still trying to work rear fenders to lower it more.



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