How big a deal is negative camper for those that don't want to blow the bank?
09-11-09, 04:55 PM
#16
Rookie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SC
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Uh, switching is called rotating. The second sentance in your post is radically stupid and untrue, the camber will not be "equal" and camber doesnt cause faster wear. and weve said flip the tires now 6 times in this thread. So thanks for adding bs to it and repeating me.
09-11-09, 09:30 PM
#17
Uh, switching is called rotating. The second sentance in your post is radically stupid and untrue, the camber will not be "equal" and camber doesnt cause faster wear. and weve said flip the tires now 6 times in this thread. So thanks for adding bs to it and repeating me.
Are you F en serious
Look at the first respond to this post and switching is rotating
Sure, next you're going to say up is down and left is right 
Last edited by GS FONZy; 09-11-09 at 09:33 PM.
09-11-09, 09:48 PM
#18
Here, learn it!
At this point its been three months since I got new tires put on.. here are my front tires with about 5K miles on them:
Whats wrong you say?? Lots of tread left... nope.. look closer:
Yes, my friend... that is what a thin tire and -4 degrees of camber gets you.. they are SHOT after 3 months of driving... this is when its appropriate to say "you gotta pay to play..."
The rears were due to be flipped as well, but I ran out of time and my tire tech thought I had a couple 100 miles to go.. WRONG. 3 days later.. BLOWOUT:
What blowout Ben? Tire looks fine....
Ahh.. I see..
Here is what the tire looks like off... see that round hole? You would think that was a nail.. nope.. that is me literally running through every last ounce of rubber:
And the tires off the wheels... no nails... this is just -5 degrees of camber and me running through the rubber..
And fresh rubber... back up and running:
OP, if you want to listen to new know it all members, go for it. It's your pockets, your tires, just don't say you werent warned.
At this point its been three months since I got new tires put on.. here are my front tires with about 5K miles on them:
Whats wrong you say?? Lots of tread left... nope.. look closer:
Yes, my friend... that is what a thin tire and -4 degrees of camber gets you.. they are SHOT after 3 months of driving... this is when its appropriate to say "you gotta pay to play..."
The rears were due to be flipped as well, but I ran out of time and my tire tech thought I had a couple 100 miles to go.. WRONG. 3 days later.. BLOWOUT:
What blowout Ben? Tire looks fine....
Ahh.. I see..
Here is what the tire looks like off... see that round hole? You would think that was a nail.. nope.. that is me literally running through every last ounce of rubber:
And the tires off the wheels... no nails... this is just -5 degrees of camber and me running through the rubber..
And fresh rubber... back up and running:
09-11-09, 10:30 PM
#19
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Hey, man, I think they mean switching the left rear tire to the right rear. Whether you call that rotating or switching is different... I'm getting the message, though. Thanks for the pics.
I think I won't be going staggered.
EDIT: What tire is that, by the way?
I think I won't be going staggered.
EDIT: What tire is that, by the way?
09-12-09, 12:13 AM
#20
If you want to run aggressive setups then you can't rely on a tire tech to check your tires. You have to check them yourself as often as possible. I physically dismounted the tires from the rims, flipped over, and remounted my tires. That's the only way to get the most out of them. And also make sure the toe is properly set.
If your tires are asymmetrical then you are out of luck. This only works with directional or non directional.
Camber does cause wear. Just not as much as toe. And rotating will not help unless your not staggered but even then the camber will still be the same at each corner (not the same degree but at the same setting for those who may not understand). So sooner or later rotating will be useless once every tire has barely any tread left inside. That is why the tires should be flipped. It's more work but it will save money and be safer.
If your tires are asymmetrical then you are out of luck. This only works with directional or non directional.
Camber does cause wear. Just not as much as toe. And rotating will not help unless your not staggered but even then the camber will still be the same at each corner (not the same degree but at the same setting for those who may not understand). So sooner or later rotating will be useless once every tire has barely any tread left inside. That is why the tires should be flipped. It's more work but it will save money and be safer.
Last edited by SH_JZZ30; 09-12-09 at 02:40 PM.
09-12-09, 10:13 AM
#21
Rookie
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: SC
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ugh, ok too much ignorance in this thread. While I may be new here, doing this crap is my job and has been for 12 years now. OP, believe who you want.
BTW, those pics are horrific, someone needs to check their TOE!!
BTW, those pics are horrific, someone needs to check their TOE!!
09-12-09, 01:43 PM
#22
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Also, what's the difference between switching, rotating, or flipping your tires? Jesus, all these damn words...
So essentially, If I drop my car some 2.5" and pay for a good alignment, I should get pretty normal tire wear?
09-12-09, 01:51 PM
#23
If you want to run aggressive setups then you can't rely on a tire tech to check your tires. You have to check them yourself as often as possible. I physically dismounted the tires from the rims, flipped over, and remounted my tires. That's the only way to get the most out of them. And also make sure the toe is properly set.
If your tires are assymetrical then you are out of luck. This only works with directional or non directional.
Camber does cause wear. Just not as much as toe. And rotating will not help unless your not staggered but even then the camber will still be the same at each corner (not the same degree but at the same setting for those who may not understand). So sooner or later rotating will be useless once every tire has barely any tread left inside. That is why the tires should be flipped. It's more work but it will save money and be safer.
If your tires are assymetrical then you are out of luck. This only works with directional or non directional.
Camber does cause wear. Just not as much as toe. And rotating will not help unless your not staggered but even then the camber will still be the same at each corner (not the same degree but at the same setting for those who may not understand). So sooner or later rotating will be useless once every tire has barely any tread left inside. That is why the tires should be flipped. It's more work but it will save money and be safer.
I just don't have that kind of patience
09-12-09, 02:50 PM
#24
What does this mean for the Bridgstone Potenza RE760 Sports?
Also, what's the difference between switching, rotating, or flipping your tires? Jesus, all these damn words...
So essentially, If I drop my car some 2.5" and pay for a good alignment, I should get pretty normal tire wear?
Also, what's the difference between switching, rotating, or flipping your tires? Jesus, all these damn words...
So essentially, If I drop my car some 2.5" and pay for a good alignment, I should get pretty normal tire wear?
Rotating and switching are the same thing. That's removing the entire wheel and tire assembly from the car and mounting them on a different side be it from front to back or side to side or even diagonally.
Flipping is removing the tire from the rim and flipping it to the other side and remounting onto the rim. More work but a must if you are running high negative camber.
Those bridgestone are asymmetrical so they cannot be flipped. They can only be mounted 1 way. The tires actually are marked inside or outside. With the 2.5" drop you should be able to get an alignment that will get it pretty close to specs but you may need a camber kit. It also depends on the wheel size and offset. If you are running an aggressive wheel setup you will need to make them fit by either fender work, alignment work, or a combination of both.
If you're running a conservative wheel setup you should be fine. You should also relocate the fender harness before it gets cut open from your tire.
Last edited by SH_JZZ30; 09-12-09 at 02:56 PM.
09-12-09, 04:56 PM
#27
Lexus Test Driver
Just relocate it and don't contemplate it.
I went through more crap thinking like that in the end.
Don't bother cutting it and then putting it back together. Just unplug everything from inside and slip it through the windshield wiper fluid hole and connect.
Goodluck and, of course, pictures when you're done!
I went through more crap thinking like that in the end.
Don't bother cutting it and then putting it back together. Just unplug everything from inside and slip it through the windshield wiper fluid hole and connect.
Goodluck and, of course, pictures when you're done!
09-14-09, 12:10 AM
#30
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am going to have to agree with ZIPTIED on this one.
Bad Toe settings eat tires.
Normal alignments settings are not for cars with large wheels (18 inch and up).
You might want to check your bushings in the back, as your toe settings might be changing, since the rear suspension is loaded, (i.e. your on the gas pedal, putting a load back there).
I took me a while to figure out why my rear tires were going out, when I put 0 toe in the rear.
I figured the same thing above and compensated the toe accordingly.
(I believe the rear with a load would go negative on the toe, so adjust a little positive like .5 or vise versa)
I am running 18 x10.5 in the rear, with lots of camber and my tires are fine even after 5k on them.
Bad Toe settings eat tires.
Normal alignments settings are not for cars with large wheels (18 inch and up).
You might want to check your bushings in the back, as your toe settings might be changing, since the rear suspension is loaded, (i.e. your on the gas pedal, putting a load back there).
I took me a while to figure out why my rear tires were going out, when I put 0 toe in the rear.
I figured the same thing above and compensated the toe accordingly.
(I believe the rear with a load would go negative on the toe, so adjust a little positive like .5 or vise versa)
I am running 18 x10.5 in the rear, with lots of camber and my tires are fine even after 5k on them.