Pablorock

I know this is old, but a quick google brought it up. Was just checking for tips before I got started. Just finished and this helped. Thanks for the write up.

javyLSU

iTrader: (21)

^Glad it's still helping people!

l1mesucks

Thanks for this. I always search these up for bolt sizes and for any tips generally. Here's some stuff that happened to me that someone could find useful.

Car was a 2010 Canada spec model. Brake dust was intense on this guy.

1) Bracket to knuckle bolts were extremely tight, needed a big breaker bar for this.
2) Lower slide pin on both sides were seized, no motion at all, pulled the boot back and used a large flathead screwdriver and a hammer to pry it out of there. That one took a bit. Clean it up good and lube before reassembling, there was a ton of crap caked on those pins.
3) Rotors were on there tighter than any car I've ever done. Have two M8 x 1.25mm thread pitch (pretty universal I think?) bolts handy if you plan on doing the rotors, this might save you a ton of time.

Pablorock

Mine were tight has hell as well on the rear (fronts no prob). I actually made another thread about it since I thought I was doing something wrong. Even with a pry bar on it it didn't seem to want to move (thought there was another bolt I didn't take out). Used a rubber mallet and kept hitting until it started to move. Spent some time hitting it back and forth and ended up removing the entire thing from the hub and had to use a hammer to separate the two pieces. But once cleaned and greased up it seem to be fine. Good thing I did it myself because I am sure any shop would have said they were seized up, so probably saved myself a few hundred bucks.

Roque2016

Your a life saver. Thank you

punklexus

Thanks for posting it. Question. Are aftermarket brakes upgrade worth it or OEM is okay for the usual driver ?

Mightbe36

Great step by step process to doing front brake job . A question by one of the members on pushing piston in caliper evenly . I have used the old brake pad up against the piston and then put the C clamp on the center of that pad , to insure even pressure on collapsing piston.

Note some guys like to torque value the bolts during re-assembly.

Thanks again , very helpful

dci4life

iTrader: (3)

If you apply the grease to the side of the shim contacting to the caliper what does that do. Im having a hard time getting one of the sides to fit on. I can't imagine its cause i applied the grease on the outside of the shims. I bought some Stop-Tech pads from TireRack.com, and I'm not sure if maybe the pads are inside or outside specific. There weren't really any instructions, they all look the same and have the same numbers and codes on them. So I'm not thinking i have one side with 2 inners and the other with 2 outers. Anyone have any advice, right now i have one side completed with the caliper fitting over but the bolt stripped so i had to get a new one ordered, and the others side i have one new pad, and one old pad so the caliper could fit. The piston is fully compressed.

XSV

iTrader: (1)

You should apply caliper grease to the back sides of the brake pads before putting on the shims to prevent squeaking. Also, you should place a small amount of grease on the ends of the pads as well to prevent them from sticking to the caliper. The pads should fit snugly, but you should not have any problems pushing them in. Maybe the pads are slightly bigger than the OEM? If so you might had to grind the ends slightly.

smitty2919

Additionally, it's a good idea to inspect/grease all slider pins and dust boots.

Just did brake inspection on my wife's car and ALL slider pin grease turned to paste not letting them slide properly and actually snapped a slider pin off inside a caliper bracket...

Always good to do this when you have everything apart.

XSV

iTrader: (1)

and use silicon grease for the pins, not regular grease b/c the regular grease will dry out and the pins will seize.

smitty2919

I want to bring this up again...I keep hearing a rattle/popping noise from passenger side on our 08 is250.

I swapped in new Hawk HPS pads right out of the box. I reused all clips/pins etc. But I don't remember transferring any "shims" to the new pads...in fact I have never added any shims to any brake job I have done.

Seems this caliper rattle is common in these cars? I'm trying to track down some anti rattle clips etc and see if it fixes the problem..

hypnotized

Smitty2919 here is some input I can offer.

The OEM pads recommend replacing the shim each time you do the brakes. The anti vibration material wears away after a while. Many after market brakes have a built in shim / anti vibration type surface where the caliper piston contacts. You may be hearing a "creak" as that piston pushes on the rear of the brake pad because there is no grease or anti vibration material as a buffer. See if your after market pads include a built in shim or maybe you need to add the OEM Lexus one. It should not be metal on metal. If the brake job is recent, the parts may seat in a few weeks and the sound may vanish but not likely.

As it relates to a rattle in that area of the car, I would suggest inspecting that metal protective shield that mirrors behind the rotor. That part begins to deteriorate over time. I grind off the rust each brake job and repaint so it lasts a while longer. When you say rattle I also think of heat shields with rusted out hangers, under body plastic with missing clips, and my aftermarket passenger windshield wipe would sometimes lift and rattle at high speed.

XSV

iTrader: (1)

I've never had any rattling on my 250 brakes, and I used the original brake pad shims that came with the car. I always used the OEM pads and didn't have any rattling. Not until now after I stalled IS350 brakes with aftermarket pads that I have rattling in the front right.

ldc

The rattles noise is not the pad squeal is it? If it's a rattles I reckon you have a lose part somewhere.