Solution to Creaking Front End Problem W/ Pics
05-19-08, 05:30 PM
#1
Solution to Creaking Front End Problem W/ Pics
Ok, guys.....
Previous symptoms:
A creaking/popping noise is heard from the front end of the SC400 while braking at slow speeds. Ex: after shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa while pulling in or out of parking spots. Slightly more than light braking while approaching a stop sign.
Attempted repairs: New lower control arms incl. lower ball joints
New upper control arms incl. upper ball joints
New sway bar end links
New sway bar bushings
New steering rack bushings
New Shocks and springs
Nothing worked!!!
or worse 
The solution:
Retorque the (4)17mm nuts which hold the aluminum crossmember(cradle) onto the unibody chassis.The 4 17mm nuts should be torqued down to 94ft/lbs.
Another to check while you're under there are the (6) 19mm bolts which hold the steel crossmember located rearward of the aluminum crossmember. The 6 19mm bolts should be torqued to 148ft/lbs.
A 17mm deep socket/19mm socket, 6" extension, and a long handled ratchet will do the job just fine.
Previous symptoms:
A creaking/popping noise is heard from the front end of the SC400 while braking at slow speeds. Ex: after shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa while pulling in or out of parking spots. Slightly more than light braking while approaching a stop sign.
Attempted repairs: New lower control arms incl. lower ball joints
New upper control arms incl. upper ball joints
New sway bar end links
New sway bar bushings
New steering rack bushings
New Shocks and springs
Nothing worked!!!
or worse The solution:
Retorque the (4)17mm nuts which hold the aluminum crossmember(cradle) onto the unibody chassis.The 4 17mm nuts should be torqued down to 94ft/lbs.
Another to check while you're under there are the (6) 19mm bolts which hold the steel crossmember located rearward of the aluminum crossmember. The 6 19mm bolts should be torqued to 148ft/lbs.
A 17mm deep socket/19mm socket, 6" extension, and a long handled ratchet will do the job just fine.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 10-16-09 at 07:12 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by UpInTheLex:
maoslarx33 (09-04-22),
ShaWTiMe (03-29-20)
05-24-08, 08:08 AM
#4
I'll try it
Hoping for the best on this. I also have replaced LCA's and went to a supra/bilstein coil. Still have a little clunk from the front right. Same parameters as you describe as well. Thanks. I'll tighten them this weekend and reports back.
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06-09-08, 10:54 AM
#8
OK I just torqued them down and NO MORE clunking when driving out of my driveway!!!!!
I can't believe it was that simple. I didnt even jack up the car. I just turned the wheels and laid on the side and tightened them. Took about 5-10 minutes.
Thank you UpInTheLex for this tip.
I can't believe it was that simple. I didnt even jack up the car. I just turned the wheels and laid on the side and tightened them. Took about 5-10 minutes.
Thank you UpInTheLex for this tip.
Last edited by SH_JZZ30; 06-09-08 at 08:13 PM.
will try this when i change my brakes
06-16-08, 12:07 PM
#15
So the popping/clunking/creaking noise is gone now?
The 4 Aluminum subframe nuts are all 17mm.
However, the black painted steel Tranny crossmember behind it has larger bolts.
The front 17mm nuts are easy to find.
The rearward ones are a little sneaky... You have to slip around behind the lower control arm to find it.
Definitely use a 17mm deep socket.
The 4 Aluminum subframe nuts are all 17mm.
However, the black painted steel Tranny crossmember behind it has larger bolts.
The front 17mm nuts are easy to find.
The rearward ones are a little sneaky... You have to slip around behind the lower control arm to find it.
Definitely use a 17mm deep socket.
Last edited by UpInTheLex; 06-16-08 at 12:11 PM.
