Brake job has Started Off Bad!!
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Lead Lap
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Brake job has Started Off Bad!!
Ok i had some grinding sound coming from my front passenger side brake on the 98 gs400 I just bought. It only grinds when i first back up after being sitting. It also would shake a little when i stop hard and pull to the right. So Im thinking new pads and rotors and maybe a caliper no biggie. So I get home tonight and start on it.
First thing the lug nuts where tighter than hell. I had to use my 4 way and damn near threw my back out. Impact wrenches should be banned for tightning lug nuts. Well I get the tire off finally and caliper comes off smooth. Hell the brake pads look almost brand new. Rotor didnt look to have any deep grooves in it. So I say well change it all out you have it off and bought the parts already. well onto the caliper bracket bolts. well i put my craftsmen 17mm socket on it and try to brake it loose. As usual caliper bracket bolts are tighter than hell, so i turn my 4 way into a breaker bar. I am pulling on it very hard and the bolt wont budge. I try the other one and decide to pull harder. Well guess what my socket brakes. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. My only 17mm socket. I dont know if they put lock tight on it or what. i beleive it would be easier to take the studs out one by one being I dont have a impact wrench and i dont see how you could get to them with one. im going to buy a 17mm impact socket tomorrow and breaker bar unless you all can think of an easier way to get rotor off with out taking caliper bracket off.
How hard is it to remove studs? I could replace them with new ones for cheap.
Im afraid the bolts going to break then im screwed.
What do you all suggest and what do you think would make it grind if the pads were brand new?
Maybe a warped roder being the lug nuts where tighten by billy bad ***!!
First thing the lug nuts where tighter than hell. I had to use my 4 way and damn near threw my back out. Impact wrenches should be banned for tightning lug nuts. Well I get the tire off finally and caliper comes off smooth. Hell the brake pads look almost brand new. Rotor didnt look to have any deep grooves in it. So I say well change it all out you have it off and bought the parts already. well onto the caliper bracket bolts. well i put my craftsmen 17mm socket on it and try to brake it loose. As usual caliper bracket bolts are tighter than hell, so i turn my 4 way into a breaker bar. I am pulling on it very hard and the bolt wont budge. I try the other one and decide to pull harder. Well guess what my socket brakes. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. My only 17mm socket. I dont know if they put lock tight on it or what. i beleive it would be easier to take the studs out one by one being I dont have a impact wrench and i dont see how you could get to them with one. im going to buy a 17mm impact socket tomorrow and breaker bar unless you all can think of an easier way to get rotor off with out taking caliper bracket off.
How hard is it to remove studs? I could replace them with new ones for cheap.
Im afraid the bolts going to break then im screwed.
What do you all suggest and what do you think would make it grind if the pads were brand new?
Maybe a warped roder being the lug nuts where tighten by billy bad ***!!
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Lead Lap
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ok after searching removing lug nut studs I see you have to remove rotor, so that isnt a solution. IM going to buy a 25" breaker bar and a 17mm impact socket from harbor freight tomorrow and try that. my biggest fear is that im going to snap off the bolt.
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Spray everything with penetrating oil and let it soak for several hours. Keep spraying during the soaking period. That will help a lot more than trying to strong arm the bolts. If the bolts are rusty, you also run the risk of rounding the heads.
The grinding sound you hear is just a light build up of rust from sitting. If the sound goes away after a few minutes of driving, you're ok to go. I would still free everything up now that you have things already partially apart. It only gets harder the longer you leave the seized up bolts.
The grinding sound you hear is just a light build up of rust from sitting. If the sound goes away after a few minutes of driving, you're ok to go. I would still free everything up now that you have things already partially apart. It only gets harder the longer you leave the seized up bolts.
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Spray everything with penetrating oil and let it soak for several hours. Keep spraying during the soaking period. That will help a lot more than trying to strong arm the bolts. If the bolts are rusty, you also run the risk of rounding the heads.
The grinding sound you hear is just a light build up of rust from sitting. If the sound goes away after a few minutes of driving, you're ok to go. I would still free everything up now that you have things already partially apart. It only gets harder the longer you leave the seized up bolts.
The grinding sound you hear is just a light build up of rust from sitting. If the sound goes away after a few minutes of driving, you're ok to go. I would still free everything up now that you have things already partially apart. It only gets harder the longer you leave the seized up bolts.
Thanks I got some pb plaster and spryed it on and waited a few mins. Broke out the old 25" breaker bar and 17mm impact socket. And pulled the hell out of it and they broke lose. They had thread lock on them on 3/4's of the threads. I thought you were only supposed to use ion on around 3 or 4 threads. Well oh well no more grinding and it doesnt pull to the right. I didnt have time to do the driver side and it still is shaking slightly when I brake real hard, but alot better. I will change the other rotor and pads tomorrow.
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