Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

Suspension recommendations

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Old 04-16-08, 05:10 PM
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mayad79
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Default Suspension recommendations

Hello,

I am in need of new struts and possibly springs. I want to get rid of the floatiness, but don't need lowering.

1.) What do you recommend other than stock?

2.) Do I need springs @ 200, 000 miles, did a strut replacement @130,000 miles?

Thanks, most threads I found deal with lowering etc..
Old 04-16-08, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mayad79
Hello,

I am in need of new struts and possibly springs. I want to get rid of the floatiness, but don't need lowering.

1.) What do you recommend other than stock?

2.) Do I need springs @ 200, 000 miles, did a strut replacement @130,000 miles?

Thanks, most threads I found deal with lowering etc..
Just change all four struts, it should take care the problem. Aftermarket struts will be good if there any for your car. Call us if you need help.
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Old 04-20-08, 07:36 PM
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SeattleGS400
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Originally Posted by mayad79
Hello,

I am in need of new struts and possibly springs. I want to get rid of the floatiness, but don't need lowering.

1.) What do you recommend other than stock?

2.) Do I need springs @ 200, 000 miles, did a strut replacement @130,000 miles?

Thanks, most threads I found deal with lowering etc..
Your OEM springs are probably fine, even at 200K. Nonetheless, my recommendations for a very good, quality, sportier ridiing shock:

1. Bilstein Heavy Duty (~25% firmer than stock). This is made as a direct drop-in for non-lowered cars.
2. Bilstein Sports (50% firmer than stock). Made for those who lower their cars.

I'm running the Heavy Duty shocks with my subtle 1" drop Lexus L-tuned springs (I didn't want too harsh of a ride with the Sports AND a 1" drop). It gives my car a different character and it's much more enjoyable and confident overall, esp. around the corners. Given your situation, I'd get the Heavy Duty style shock as it'll properly firm up the ride, is comfortable, yet will get rid of the "Lexus float". One other CL member has the Sports on his OEM springs, and he states he was pretty happy with them (his name might be 3dog--can't remember). Either Bilstein style should run about $430 shipped for a set of 4--expensive yes, but worth every penny for the quality construction and seemingly lifetime durability (OEM shocks seem to wear out after 4-5 years; about $290 shipped for a set of 4). Bilstein is a German shock company that is OEM for BMW, Porsche, Ferrari, etc. You can't go wrong with the high-quality Bilsteins, and they carry a lifetime warranty. The OEM shocks (I believe they were Tokico branded) and even KYB brand shocks will eventually wear out on you and you'll still have the Lexus "float." Go for the Bilsteins--you won't regret it.

FYI, expect any where from $240-$410 for the installation, depending on where you get the shocks done.

Last edited by SeattleGS400; 04-20-08 at 08:15 PM.
Old 04-20-08, 10:11 PM
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mayad79
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Default Thank you they are ordered 460 total parts

Thanks Seattle gs400 I have taken your recommendations. They are ordered.
Old 04-21-08, 12:38 AM
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SeattleGS400
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Originally Posted by mayad79
Thanks Seattle gs400 I have taken your recommendations. They are ordered.
Let us know how car rides once you get the Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks in.

I would suggest (not required, but highly recommend) while you are changing out your shocks the following parts as well (Order from Carson Toyota (www.l-tunedparts.com) and use the extra 5% code (CLOEM)--putting in these parts won't add to the total labor charge:

1. Front strut coil insulator (get 2; P/N 48157-30040) about $18 each)--it acts as a strut protective cover (accordian like cover) and at the top is a pad for the spring to rest on--crucial if your old cover is torn and worn out)
2. Front strut bumper stop (get 2; P/N 48331-30120) about $10 each)--you'll need these if teh car was ever driven into too many potholes--it prevents the struts from overcompressing from a large bump; in my car, when I changed out my suspension, one of these was cracked in half)
3. Front strut mounts (look under Ebay #160210460602; $102 for a set of 2 of them (made by KYB, probably the OEM for Lexus; I know they make OEM parts for Nissan); normally about $65 each for OEM)--this holds the struts to the frame of the car--they also absorb some of jolts from the road.

[*verify the part numbers, but they were copied from an old invoice I had when I had my suspension done 2 years ago.]

I'd replace 1, 2, and 3 as well as your shocks. Again, it won't add to the labor cost of your strut replacement as they have to take the above parts out to reuse or be replaced (what I'm suggesting). Might as well put in new parts while they are there. Once you change them, you won't need to probably never do it again. Your car will ride better than new once you get it all in place.

======================

These next parts wear out and should be replaced given your mileage of the car--they can be independently changed at a later date:

-Front sway bar bushings (get 2; P/N 48815-30480) about $12 each)
-Rear sway bar bushings (get 2; P/N 48818-30100 about $8 each)
-Steering rack bushings (3 total; (get 1, about $25) Grommet housing (passenger side) 45517-30050; (get 2 of these, about $20/each) Steering bushing (drivers side) 45516-30060

Once you change the above, your car will track straighter in the freeway and lean less on corners. The front/rear sway bushings you can do yourself (each bushing has 2 bolts that hold a bracket over the bushings). However, the steering rack bushings need a bit more clearance and the dealer can do it for you for about 1.0 to 1.25hr labor.

=========

Lastly, while you are at it, given the age of your car, clean out your Mass Air Flow Filter and Throttle body--it'll give your car great throttle response (no hesitation) and better fuel economy:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=345147

=====

Hmm, some more preventative stuff to think about (only if your car needs to get these done):

1. Drain and refill your ATF (search CL for how to do this, pretty easy DIY)
2. Drain and refill your rear differential oil (do a CL search, pretty easy DIY)
3. Drain and refill your power steering fluid (alternatively, you can flush it as well)
4. Change your engine air filter (about $24 from Carson Toyota, easy DIY)
5. Chagne your cabin A/C filter--accesible from the glovebox (about $22 from Carson Toyota, easy DIY)

Some reputable places to get discounted OEM Lexus parts:

www.l-tunedparts.com (has an online parts listing; use code "CLOEM" to get 5% more off the standard 20% discount; great guys; located in LA, California)

www.irontoad.com (no parts listing, you'll have to call/email them to get what you need; located in Pennsylvania)

www.parts.com (comparable to the above; last time I ordered came from a Florida Lexus dealership)

www.toyotaandlexusparts.com (a dealership in Texas)

www.sewellpartsonline.com (Sewell Lexus in Texas; awesome blow-up diagrams with part numbers; website can be slow at times)

Order parts based on service and proximity to your locale to get the parts faster. I've been happy with all of them. Some are cheaper for some parts.

Last edited by SeattleGS400; 04-21-08 at 12:59 AM.
Old 04-21-08, 12:53 AM
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The laundry's almost done (4 weeks of accumulation), so I've got more things to think about, but if your car seems excessively loud at freeway speed (esp over certain road surfaces), check your underbody floorpan (i.e. kneeling down with a flashlight in hand) to see if you're missing rubber body plugs. They tend to fall out and allow a bit of noise to get into the car--it can sound like a whooshing noise even if there isn't wind blowing outside. Your moonroof drain hoses can also be too low.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ighlight=noise

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=70515

Last edited by SeattleGS400; 04-21-08 at 12:59 AM.
Old 04-22-08, 01:06 PM
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mayad79
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Default Thank you

Thanks a million SeattleGS400.

I will certainly take those recommendations and keep the post active once installed. I have about 200,000 miles and might as well make the new suspension completely new.

This post will certainly help everyone here,


Thanks
Old 05-05-08, 05:22 PM
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mayad79
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Talking So far so good

So I have cleaned the air intake and throttle body. I did it all myself and everyone here helped, cool. I have also changed my plugs via mechanic. The car is now so much quiter that I thought I broke something and the engine was off.

Did find that the intake is cracked at the throttle body and the air filter, so I used high temp tape to seal for now.

What is the best intake to get thats metal not plastic, SRT?

Seattlegs400, where are those body plugs and what are the part numbers? I sthere a way to permanently seal?

Can I lower on blistiens HD with l tuned 1'' drop?

Thanks,
Old 05-14-08, 04:00 PM
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mayad79
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Default Can I get lowering springs

Ordered bilstien heavy duty, but can I get lowering springs?

Thanks,

GSsssssss
Old 05-14-08, 05:20 PM
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4ntvings
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Originally Posted by mayad79
Ordered bilstien heavy duty, but can I get lowering springs?

Thanks,

GSsssssss
y not?..........
Old 05-23-08, 01:12 PM
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mayad79
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Default Progress with momentum

Hey all,

So far I have ordered the parts that Seattlegs400 has recommended. They will be installed soon.

I have replaced my diff oil with amsoil 1.8 qt, also replaced 4 quarts of ATF.
******* Always buy a new plug and crush washers for AT******************


Also replaced the front floor body plugs with auto glue.

So we are now quiter, smoother, better traction, and more confident.

Now the suspension to be installed, and a couple more ATF changes.

Thanks everyone,
Old 11-24-08, 11:16 AM
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rnsand6kds
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Wow, nice post. I guess there's even more stuff for me to go do.
Old 02-12-09, 02:08 PM
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mayad79
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Default Finally done

Well the Bilstein's are on, but the car seems that it is sitting an inch higher.The float is gone. The car is stiffer. I like it.

Also, installed a K&N cold air on, and when I inspected the air box that was stock it had many flaws and cracks and spaces between the connecting parts. I am thinking of cleaning the vacuum connecters in the engine.


Thanks all,
Old 02-12-09, 03:49 PM
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get some tanabe df210's to reduce that wheel gap
Old 02-12-09, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mayad79
Well the Bilstein's are on, but the car seems that it is sitting an inch higher.The float is gone. The car is stiffer. I like it.

How long have they been on? Give them a chance to settle.
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