5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

nice progress. good luck

97RSPSCTT

you are absolutly doing the right thing imo

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Guys -

I need some ideas of how to get the bolt off. The nylon thread in there is not letting the bolt go and I can not figure out how I can get the bolt to stop turning. I do not have enough clearance to get a power ratchet in there to zip it off. I am taking a break to think about it but that is holding me up.

I have the subframe almost back on the car.

Question:

does it matter (balance) how the driveshaft goes in to the diff...another words do the bolts have to go back into the same holes. I marked it but it seems to have disappeared. I am going under later tonight with a light to investigate but wanted to know if I was really screwed if I could not find the alignment.

rawdil49

do you need to remove the subrame to replace the control arms or did you remove it for something else?

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

you do not neccessarily need to but it made it so much easier to do the work. The biggest pain has been getting it back up since I am not doing this on a lift. However becasue the upper control arm bolt is hidden and you can easily strip the washer with a grove to hold it in place I just say drop it. It is 4 spots to let the subframe down...if you want to take it completely off all you need to fo it detach the driveshaft and the abs speed sensors and you are good to go.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Alright...here are some pics. The rear is finished ( minus a strut rod that I am waiting to come in - Luis says it should be here tomorrow). I will complete the front tomorrow. The rear was the real pain in the ***. I had to get the subframe back by myself....that was not fun let me tell you. No lift, I am sick and feel like I have no strength, Boo Hoo poor me...

Alright well everything is buckled up in the back except a strut rod and the calipers. I will put them on tomorrow afternoon and put the wheels back on. It will be nice to have the wheels back on. I will then need to replace the inner tie rod boot on the passanger side and the outter tie rod and then just replace the arms. The front should go pretty quick.

Todays chores:
Put axles and pumpkin in the subframe
Tighten all arms on the hubs
Put the subframe up in the car
connect driveshaft onto diff
Connect emrgency brake cables and line holders
Connect abs sensor and line holders
Put on coilovers

Pics:







I STILL HAVE TO GET THAT DAMN BOLT OFF MY PASS UPPER CONTROL ARM

TheMole

iTrader: (13)

Are you having trouble with the rear upper control arm bolt? Theres a sticky right at the top of this forum with info on it. Heres the link: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=229859

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

not that bolt...I am having an issue with the nut that is on tge ball joint stud on the rear uppper control arm. The nut that came with is has a nylon ring at the end and when the bolt hit that it caught the whole bolt and now will not loosen or tighten - the old bolt does nto have this ring and I as able to tighten the other arm with the old bolt.

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

Well had too wrap it up today early because of a very misfortunate find...both the supra Lower control arms were for the left side. I will have to call Luis in the morning and get this worked out. I do not blame Luis as you see below the bags were marked with different parts number and one is left and the other is supposed to be right




Well this really soured my mood and I packed it up for the night. The other thing that was not making me a happier camper is the amount of work it takes to get these in. I do not remember anyone saying that it took an act of congress to get them in. I lined up the arm to the holes and it looks to be a little off but when I line it up with my old bar they look to be right on - maybe a little/slight difference in the bend. Am I missing something or just need to step away and let the brain relax.




Well I did make some progress I finally got that bolt off the upper rear cvontrol arm. I could not get pliers in to the bolt because there was not enough clearance between the nut and the hub. I also could not pull the boot up anymore so I found this in my misc tool. I think it is from something I bought at IKEA...



Also, I fixed the boot that was torn. I have not found anywhere that there should be grease or power steering fluid in there so it is empty.



Well that is all for today. I will have to see when I can get a new arm and until then I am stuck. It is very irritating but that is life. Maybe this will give me some time to clean some other stuff up on the car.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

nice progress man. you should feel a world of a difference. did the front upper control arms show any wear?

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

The bushings were completely shot...you could visually see the cracks from the rubber drying out. The ball joint I would question as the boot was leaking the grease but the supra ball joint moved about as much as the old one. I will be getting the balljoints on all the arms measured to see the actual numbers of them rotating.


i called Luis and we are getting the issue rectified. I should have my new/correct arm by Tuesday. He has been very helpful and professional during this whole purchase.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

it kind of looks like you are leaking power steering fluid, are you going to have it fixed? if any of the fluid gets on the new bushings they will start to deteriorate quick

mteele

iTrader: (5)

How many miles are on your SC?

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

nice work. give us input on the coilovers. i dont really care for comfort. i want to know whether they will be any track worthy. i hate my car to drift days all summer long.

i have a choice to make. buy the megans now or save a tiny bit more and get stance. im leaning towards stance because i know the valving is good and the spring rates are stiff...just how i want it. i have been in an sc with stance. never experienced megans though.

the axles can just bolt up. there is no actual "right" way of bolting them up. i would say it would have been easier to install the subframe and then put in the diff. i have done my diff for various reasons(blowing it up, replacement, welding it. lol.) many times and its very easy to install a diff, even if the car is on the ground.

i actually timed myself that i can do my diff removal in under 30 mins. i did it in 24 minutes...on my own

ICONYQ

iTrader: (3)

WWOOOOHHOOOOO!!!!

It is all bolted up right now. I was on some Tylenol Nighttime Liquid stuff last night to get rid of this cough so I had to call it a night...I will go through and take pics this afternoon when I get home and then go through and verify everything is bolted tight and then put the wheels back on. Then it is off to NTB to do the alignment. I am going to drop it off since I know they are going to have to take some time when doing it since all four will be WAY off.

I did discover some oil leakage. I will take a pic of that as well. I will be able to ride with it for a while but it is changing the order of how I am going to do the upgrade ( I am a Program Manager so everything I do has to be process centric ) It is looking like the rear main and front main seal.

Order was: Suspension, Interior and Roll cage, Paint/Lights/Wide body (possibly) and new wheels, end with engine and 6 spd.

Now: Suspension, Engine (lightly modified), Interior and Roll, Paints/Lights/Wide body (possibly) and new wheels, engine and 6 spd.