For the people with the shakiness (50-80mph), is it worse when you brake?
#1
For the people with the shakiness (50-80mph), is it worse when you brake?
My steering wheel probably doesn't shake as bad as many people on here, because apparently some people are thinking of changing cars solely because of it. As mentioned, the wheel doesn't seem like it's shaking but it's noticeably shaking when you drive and put your hands on it.
However it gets worse and shakes really bad, to the point where the whole car shakes, when I start to brake between 55-80mph. Is this the usual case? For those that have the shakiness, is it worse when you brake or no?
PS - this is not a diagnostic test (so don't tell me to get my car aligned, wheels balanced, etc, cause this ain't a thread about it).
However it gets worse and shakes really bad, to the point where the whole car shakes, when I start to brake between 55-80mph. Is this the usual case? For those that have the shakiness, is it worse when you brake or no?
PS - this is not a diagnostic test (so don't tell me to get my car aligned, wheels balanced, etc, cause this ain't a thread about it).
#2
I have had that issue on both my GS400 and 430; and the reason is the brake disc runout. Over time, the GS rotors get warped. They still stop fine, but light pressure at the speeds you mention cause the vibration. The fix is really simple, not to diagnose your car, however if anyone else is reading and they are curious, it really only cost about $15 to fix it.
Remove the rotors and have them turned smooth for about $7/ea at OReilley's etc. They will only take off enough material to true them to new spec. If you have plenty of pad left, you can just true the rotors and keep using your pads until they wear out. If you are renewing pads, it is always best to turn the rotors at the same time so the new pads seat properly.
It is an annoying problem that can be quickly solved.
Remove the rotors and have them turned smooth for about $7/ea at OReilley's etc. They will only take off enough material to true them to new spec. If you have plenty of pad left, you can just true the rotors and keep using your pads until they wear out. If you are renewing pads, it is always best to turn the rotors at the same time so the new pads seat properly.
It is an annoying problem that can be quickly solved.
#3
Lexus Champion
Check how much rotor you've got left too, if it's running thin then further thinning wouldn't do you much good as you'll have to change them soon...
Also, any slotted or drilled rotors can't be resurfaced.
Also, any slotted or drilled rotors can't be resurfaced.
#4
I somewhat ruled out warped rotors due to some reasons:
-I'm currently on big brake kits
-it happened before too when I was on stock brake system
-as mentioned, this is speed dependent (55-80mph). I'd think warped rotors will shae throughout.
It is odd because it'll shake badly when I'm braking, which totally leads to warped rotors.
-I'm currently on big brake kits
-it happened before too when I was on stock brake system
-as mentioned, this is speed dependent (55-80mph). I'd think warped rotors will shae throughout.
It is odd because it'll shake badly when I'm braking, which totally leads to warped rotors.
#5
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