Making brake system feel brand new...
10-01-07, 01:04 PM
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Making brake system feel brand new...
I plan to replace my front and rear rotors, pads, shims and fitting kits. So that will be all new. Now besides the brake hoses being worn, what else will cause the brake pedal to be not as firm as when you first start to depress it (Like in a new car). Worn seals in the master cylinder or maybe the brake booster? I am looking for a tight break pedal feel again like when the car is new. I know the steel braided brake lines will bring back this tight brake pedal, but I am interested in replacing/rebuilding what needs to be done first. Nothing is leaking externally. Or is it the brake hoses just giving more when under pressure and expanding more since they're old. The car is a 94 sc400. So what can I do to bring back that new brake pedal feel other than steel braided lines?
10-01-07, 04:36 PM
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^^I'd second djl comments.^^
You've done a great job describing air in the brake lines without saying it. That's the biggest contributer to mushy brakes. The oem brake lines are unlikely to bulge to the extent you'd ever notice it during normal street use.
That having been said, and in this sequence: 1.) low fluid, 2.) worn pads and 3.)rotors nearing there wear limit tolerance can detract from the solid feeling you're after.
Braided steel brake lines are not going to cure any of those issues and I can say from experience you don't notice braided lines in daily driver, track thats another matter.
You've done a great job describing air in the brake lines without saying it. That's the biggest contributer to mushy brakes. The oem brake lines are unlikely to bulge to the extent you'd ever notice it during normal street use.
That having been said, and in this sequence: 1.) low fluid, 2.) worn pads and 3.)rotors nearing there wear limit tolerance can detract from the solid feeling you're after.
Braided steel brake lines are not going to cure any of those issues and I can say from experience you don't notice braided lines in daily driver, track thats another matter.
10-01-07, 09:09 PM
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I agree. Would I gain anything from rebuilding the master cylinder as far as a stiffer brake pedal? As I noted above its not leaking or anything and seems to be working fine. Just would like to know if replacing those seals would make any amount of difference in the stiffness of the pedal.
10-01-07, 10:19 PM
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Would I gain anything from rebuilding the master cylinder as far as a stiffer brake pedal? As I noted above its not leaking or anything and seems to be working fine. Just would like to know if replacing those seals would make any amount of difference in the stiffness of the pedal.
Can't see how that would be if it is "working fine". Stick with the basics first, don't go after expensive stuff that seems to be working. Check fluid level, bleed all the air, replace worn pads and resurface/replace rotors and 90% of the time you are back to off the showroom floor brake response.
My god if you go into a less than honest brake center and describe all this stuff you will have "reem me" written on your forehead and they will give you $900 dollar brake job on your Lexus.
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10-02-07, 11:06 PM
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hey Lexus082 so sorry to s*** on your thread but since this is a kind of braking section i need to ask this question which i asked before...need answers ASAP...again so sorry:
i just bought myself a set of goodridge stainless steel (without the casing/protective cover). i was juts wondering if i can get the casing or if i can make one using some plastic of some sort
i just bought myself a set of goodridge stainless steel (without the casing/protective cover). i was juts wondering if i can get the casing or if i can make one using some plastic of some sort
10-03-07, 04:08 AM
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10-03-07, 07:50 PM
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add some? Not exactly...I think you'd normally totally flush all the non-syn out of the system, right bigmalik00.
I run a commonly available synthetic brake fluid and noticed it holds up well to high temp track braking. I have never "boiled" this brake fluid.
I run a commonly available synthetic brake fluid and noticed it holds up well to high temp track braking. I have never "boiled" this brake fluid.
Last edited by SCoupe; 10-03-07 at 07:53 PM.
10-04-07, 03:29 AM
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brake fluid naturally absorbs humidity in the air, therefore making its boiling point go down over time. If fluid isn't changed with some frequency, the avg brake temp could make the fluid boil then you have air in your lines. Flush it all out either with the fill and pump method, or use a handpump vacuum connection and suck the new fluid through.
10-10-07, 08:38 PM
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I plan to flush out all the brake fluid and rebuild the front brake calipers with the re-build kit I bought from Lexus. I already re-built the rear calipers and I found it to be pretty easy and fun. I also plan to paint them either silver like oem or black. I haven't decided which color yet. I also bought a new fitting kit for the front calipers. I have already replaced the rear fitting kit. Then I plan to get new pads and rotors for the front and the rear. Then I will see if I am satisfied with the brake pedal travel. May have to get another job to support this ongoing project. I have been actively ordering new parts to turn the car back into a "like new" car. Let me tell ya its expensive. Atleast I do all the work myself, otherwise I wouldn't be able to support my habit. Thank god for the lexus parts catalog I have that gives me all the part numbers I could ever want to know. I may be new to this forum but I've been on LOC for a long time. I like this forum better. Owners on here seem to have more experience and are more active!
10-12-07, 12:08 AM
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Remember that you can call on the Toyota Parts bin for quite a few cross-over parts from the MKIV Supra. One of our forum sponsors, Carson Toyota, www.L-Tunedparts.com beats the hell out of the prices of my local Lexus and Toyota dealers.
