MJHSC400

I'm trying to restore my 1992 SC4 to a squeak and rattle free vehicle so I can stand driving it for a while-- So I'd like to track down every possible reason for clunking known to man--

I've thought up a quick list of common reasons that cause clunks, but would like other drivers input from your experiences --

1. Bushings!! big reason
2. End links-- another one that makes big noise
3. Struts-- not as obvious--
4. Strut mounts-- if they're broken they clunk
5. Swaybar bushings-- clunk like a mother
6. Ball joints--
7. The jack-- (maybe??)
8. Spare tire-- (anybody??)
9. Loose stuff-- (sorry can't think of anything else)

So I ran out right there-- I'm wondering if anyone has ever had small clunks that went away when they installed new struts and strut mounts-- I'm sure they clunk but mine don't seem broken so I'm trying to rule things out -- I've got a little clunk in the rear end over bumps at low speed-- so any ideas would be cool-- I've got new endlinks and the sway bushings are good-- I think the ball joints and bushings are good in the back too-- this is a tough one--

I also have a slight clunk going over speed bumps with the brakes on in the front-- I'm wondering if even though my balljoints don't show any obvious play in large amt's. if they could be just loose enough to clunk a tiny bit?? They aren't bad enough to tramline on the interstate at all-- not even a little, so that's a tough one too--

So list any opinions please!! Help us all have quiet and smooth older Lexi --

Thanks for ANY input--

mkorsu

1. Bushings
2. Endlinks
3. (only because I noticed this on my car when changing lower control arms) loose nut connecting to steering knuckle.

One HoT

iTrader: (5)

I had a clunking noise at the rear passenger side..I thought it was my rear LCA or UCA since I didn't change them yet..It turned out my rear speaker board was very loose...I would recommend checking your interior parts before you go crazy and start ripping out your suspension..

I was seriously going to have my mechanic take everything apart and put all new bushings for the rear...Glad I didn't have to because my car drives perfect now with Tein CS, Daizen front LCA and sways bushings replaced...

Tein CS is absolutely awesome!

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

1) we have shocks, not struts
2) brake pads not installed correctly (not really the pads, but the locating hardware - if it gets installed wrong, or in the wrong place, brake pads can click or clunk on turning and braking)

sc30015

CV axle makes a clicking noise if broken.

Sc dRifta

ball joints
bushing
ring and pinion
drift shaft bushing
motor mount
tranny mount!!!!!!!!!!
drive shaft flex coupler(only if you make big power ive cracked like 4 of these)
differential

MJHSC400

A "strut" is where the spring and shock assembly are combined into one piece---

A shock is generally separated from the spring usually to make repairs easier.

Due to that fact I believe we actually have struts, not shocks--


1) FRONT WHEEL BEARING 2) KNUCKLE 3) UPPER CONTROL ARM
4) LOWER CONTROL ARM 5) BALL JOINTS 6) STRUT
7) STRUT MOUNT 8) COIL SPRING 9) SPRING INSULATOR
10) STABILIZER BAR 11) BUSHINGS 12) BRACKET
13) LINK

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

unfortunately we have coil over shocks, not struts...

the only time a strut is truly a strut is in a Mcpherson strut setup - by definition a suspension setup is only referred to as a strut is when it is part of the steering assembly...

from Monroe's website:

Q: What is the difference between shock absorbers and struts?
A. Struts and shocks are very similar in function, but very different in design. The job of both is to control excessive spring motion; however, struts are also a structural component of the suspension. Struts can take the place of two or three conventional suspension components and are often used as a pivot point for steering and to adjust the position of the wheels for alignment purposes.

from accctiresonline.com:

The Difference Between A Shock And Strut
Shock absorbers and struts are quite similar in some ways. They both dampen the bounce of the tire and stabilize the vehicle.
McPherson Struts, however, are an integral part of the front and/or rear suspension of the vehicle. The strut assembly provides the upper suspension and wheel turning support. It is an integral part of the suspension geometry and directly affects the vehicle tracking.
Shock absorbers are installed inside or near the coil spring, leaf spring or torsion bar. They are not an integral part of the suspension system and as such do not affect vehicle alignment. Also, if broken will not keep the vehicle from being driven.
A broken McPherson strut may keep the vehicle from being driven because of the potential loss of steering control.
Struts are much more expensive than shocks because they are more a part of the vehicle and take the place of many components that must be used in the conventional front suspension.

and last but not least from Koni's website:
Q: I often hear the terms strut and shock used interchangeably. Are they different?
A:Shocks and struts are similar in that they both damp (slow down) the vehicles motion. The key difference of a strut vs. a shock is that a shock only controls the cars motion while a strut is a locating member of the suspension. What this means is that if you remove a shock the spindle or axle will still be completely attached to the vehicle. If you remove a strut the spindle or axle will be able to move outside of its normal motion. Shocks and struts may or may not have a spring mounted to them either. It is often assumed that any damper with a spring is a strut, this is not the case.

MJHSC400

Ahhhh-- Like the McPherson struts on BMW's -- I see-- Thanks -- That's why they use strut bearings in the mount and ours do not--

I wonder if strut mounts get dry/old and make a little noise even when they're not broken-- and the same about the coil spring insulator-- they're both primarily rubber components--

AME_VIP

iTrader: (2)

New Supra TT front lower control arms with new ball joints fixed my clunking.

I agree that clunking can also be the sway bar end links. I put new ones on just in case.

I have heard the clicking from the right side for a while now. I haven't tracked it down yet. It sounds like the front passenger side not the CV on the rear.

lexySC_909

When your hub bearings go bad, they can make noise too. This can cause a loud humming noise and can also clunking noise if it is very bad. This can also cause your steering wheel to shake or virbrate. Another thing that can cause noise is not screwing in the lug nuts tight enough.

no2faber

my clunking was sway bar bushings. i'd recommend people to switch those out before they try the supra LCAs. if you're lucky, you'll only be out like $35 (front and rear i believe) and a 15 min job.

JohnEd

iTrader: (1)

I recently shot myself in the foot with my suspension. I took it apart to install my Big Brakes and forgot something. When you put the upper a arm in and retighten the bolt the initial torque is to "loose" and you tighten it after you get the car suspension loaded. That keeps you from tearing the rubber in the bushing. You guessed it....I forgot to do the final tighten and that loose bolt let the upper arm move just enuf to clunk when I went over a dip or hit my brakes while backing up. I pondered that for a week till I had my "a piff any".

Tightened bolts and no more clunk. Not saying it is your problem, and I see a lot of fixes where other things were at fault but it was mine.

Good luck,

John

MJHSC400

Dude-- I'm just glad that sucker didn't come out!!!

Well-- I thought my lex rode pretty stiff but I drove a new RX8 today and after getting back in the SC I noticed that even with daizens and 18" wheels it's smoother than the RX-- (friggin pos) --

I'm just a ******-- there's nothing really that bad goin on, I just want it to be like a new car-- that's all-

I guess I'd have to install all new clips, interior panels, exterior fasteners, wheel bearings, seals, hinges, etc for it to get there-- AFTER doing all the bushings of course--

tttp5

iTrader: (1)

does anyone know if the brakes can contribute to a metal clanking sound?
i say this because i have a clank sound when i go over abrupt joints in the road pavement or when the wheel goes over the cats eyes (white reflective plastic dots), the sound comes from the drivers front side wheel because it will only make the sound when the left front wheel travels over the imperfection.

i did a little experimentation but have not fully concluded that if i had my foot on the brake the noise seems to not occur while going over these bumps. i'm going to try it again more throughly to determine if its my brake or if its something else in the suspension.

any clue?