MJHSC400

Hi guys-- Everybody knows how hard it is to track down the toyota part #'s on our endlinks for the rear-- I installed the supra links up front with great results as they're the identical part--

only one of my rears is bad, but I thought originally that the problem was bad bushings on the swaybar-- a little clunking made me think so-- turns out it's one bad endlink--

Sooooo-- I was at the junkyard looking for some ricer mufflers and eyeballed a ford contour with the subframe sitting on top of the car and a great big endlink hanging off-- An idea popped in my head -- cut it down, turn it, and weld the ends back together--

So-- here it is-- Cost me $10 total --

This would work for fronts and rears actually-- enjoy-- (I know this is ghetto but not as ghetto as a rear-end clunk!!)

This is after cutting, welding, grinding, and priming--

Sly Guy Yu

kinda scary using ford parts on our car, and then cut and weld it. But awesome nontheless

TheMole

iTrader: (13)

Nice job man. I also have that same scientific calculator haha.

MJHSC400

Those calculators suck!!! You have to hit the buttons with a hammer to be sure it responds-- It always looks crazy when I take chemistry exams-- lotsa funny looks hitting a calculator with a hammer--

Here it is installed--

MJHSC400

No more clunk-- finally-- goal 1 achieved-- noise free ride-- oem quiet--

Seize

Sounds like it was a good and effective DIY

AME_VIP

iTrader: (2)

very nice job. I actually bought a set of links from an eagle talon for the fronts but the length was not correct. I bit the bullet and got new SC links from the dealer.

If you have ever checked out the prices from Lexus new swaybar end links, you will understand why this is a great option!

LexAnt

iTrader: (2)

or you could make your own adjustable endlink. I have some on my SC right now because when I corner balanced the car, the sway bars showed to be hindering the balancing and so the endlinks length had to be adjusted.

MJHSC400

Interesting-- These can be easily made into adjustable links--

Just cut and thread the post instead of welding--

These are long enough that you can snag four @ $25 in new condition from the junkyard and custom a full set for the sc--

If this doesn't end up strong enough it's very easy to beef up the design-- A tension pin is a collar of mild steel with a slot right down the middle, and it can be cut to length and slid over each cut end-- then just tig a nice bead right down the slot-- super strong-- stronger than stock--

If these last 2 years per set-- geez that's cheap--

The supra links from rockauto.com are only $45 shipped for the front, so I'm not complaining as they'll last another 100k, but the rears are sorta hard to track down-- they also generally last longer than fronts too-- so this truly is a good option-- It's very easy to do--

The center bar length needs to be 1.5" exactly if you cut down contour links-- they're off the front too so they should be sturdy enough-- we'll see--

mkorsu

WTF????


It's steel. Steel is steel. Do you honestly believe Toyota has its own foundries that produces superior steel??

CleanCL

$40 brand new from rockauto...

so you paid $10, but i dont have a welder, and how much time did you invest to cut/weld/etc, $40 seems well worth it to me.

MJHSC400

10 minutes maybe?? cut, weld-- you don't have to paint them-- I just did to keep rust at bay-- a stainless wire won't rust--

I don't have a welder either, but plenty of folks do-- residential A/C shops have mig welders by the 5's -- one of the guys there would most likely be glad to do it-- also fabricators, steel supply houses will do it-- you just cut and prep-- and help the guy clamp them at the right angle on the table-- they can do the rest-- I have a grinder-- a dremel will work too though--

I just like the fact that this can be done and is an option--

Whereas you see value in paying $40 for a finished product for just the rears-- I see value in paying $25 for a complete set of end-links--

I really stress that I prefer the oem fronts-- for $40 it's hard to beat-- but I only needed one for the rear to quiet the clunking-- that's really the reason I did it--

Keep in mind there are heavier cars/trucks that have beefier endlinks than SC's have, and a little looking could source you a heavy duty set from something like an F350 that will NEVER wear out-- Or maybe a crown vic or a lincoln-- they've all got beefy suspensions believe it or not-

Ford builds beefy suspensions when they want to--

I'm just glad there's no clunk-- that's all--

CleanCL

i'm just arguing that it's not really a value at $25. it just appears that way because the up front cost isn't the same. but i don't know anywhere where i could get a weld for free, and then i have to pay for that, i have to drive somewhere, i have to research places that will do it for me.... while the $40 i pay and it's delivered to my door hassle free.

way to use your noggin, smart thinking, but your talking a difference of like $50 most, if that's a huge expense for people, they shouldnt be driving a lexus.

MJHSC400

Naahhh-- $25 compared to $85 is a huge savings--

The lexus/toyota part isn't designed that well anyway-- it may last a long time, but it's a pain to remove-- both the front and rear are a huge pain ---

I had to cut nearly all 4 of mine off-- not fun my man--

At least the Ford engineers were smart enough to put a nut on the ball spindle to grip with a wrench--

The rears are supported with this little tab that just bends-- and you end up cutting your old ones off--

If you've not had this problem that's great, but I'd rather not go through it again if I can avoid it--

Eggman

thinking about doing this.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...2&postcount=11

should eliminate any clunking, and it will be adjust to realign my sway bar with my lowered car.