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How to Fix your Trac system before itís BIG$$$

 
Old 05-12-07, 09:50 PM
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toddf58
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Default How to Fix your Trac system before itís BIG$$$

Over the period of time that I have owned my 95 SC400, during routine maintenance I noticed that the hose that goes from the Trac pump to the accumulator had little bumps on it. I never thought much about it until I did a complete brake system flush.
I bled the brakes and tracÖ.and went o my merry way. About 3 months later the Trac light came on, so I looked on the forum and found numerous posts talking about that high pressure rubber hose coming apart. I inspected the hose again and found brake fluid seeping from it (ouch). Bled the Trac system again and noticed little black pieces coming out with my nice clean brake fluid. Needless to say I replace the hose and still kept getting that pesky trac light. Pulled the codes 43 and 54 which mean that the pump runs too long. I went to Carson Toyota and asked the price on the accumulator and (ouch) about $500.00, so back to the forum again.
I called:
West Coast Parts & Salvage
12129 Branford
Sun Valley
(818) 896-0102
They had the part, drove to beautiful Sun ValleyÖ.Installed the new/used accumulator, and fixed!!!!! They were great and knew of the forum.

Now, the moral to the story.
1) If you see that high pressure hose has little bumpsÖ.replace it NOW!!!
2) Always keep clean fresh brake fluid in this systemÖ.Itís expensive!!
3) If the accumulator is goodÖwhen you open the bleed valve on the Trac actuator on the right side of the car it should fill about a foot of the hose with brake fluid before you start the car to bleed the system. This is due to the accumulator discharging into your hose. If nothing comes out of the trac actuator, the accumulator is probably bad.
4) If little black chunks come out of the bleeders, your bummed!

This post was quit helpful.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ac+accumulator

Service manual says:
************************************************** ***********************
1) ABS bleeding procedure is the same procedure used in
bleeding conventional brake system. On models without TRAC, if master
cylinder is rebuilt or reservoir is empty, bleed master cylinder
first. On models with TRAC, bleed TRAC system first. To bleed TRAC
system, go to step 3).

3) Connect vinyl hose to bleeder plug of accumulator. Loosen
accumulator bleeder plug. Start engine. Operate TRAC pump motor until
all air bubbles have been bled. Tighten bleeder plug to 74 INCH lbs.
(8.3 N.m). With engine running, add brake fluid. Turn engine off.
4) Connect vinyl tube to bleeder plug of TRAC actuator.
Loosen bleeder plug. Start engine. Operate TRAC pump motor until all
air bubbles have been bled. Tighten bleeder plug to 74 INCH lbs. (8.3
N.m). With engine running, add brake fluid. Turn engine off. Clear any
code(s) stored. See CLEARING CODES under DIAGNOSIS & TESTING.
******end service manual*************
Step 4 is where the fluid should come out before you start the car.

I hope that this helps someone. I read that the dealer gets $1,000.00 for this fix.
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Old 01-31-08, 02:46 PM
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sc400ky
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I need step by step instructions on how to remove and replace the accumulater on a 92 sc400. I get the codes 43 and 54. I opened the bleeder on the actuator with the car off and started the car waited a few seconds then the fluid started coming out. I tighten it back and cleared the codes. I drove the car around the block but trac light came back on immediately. I shut the car off and open the bleeder on the actuator again and fluid started coming out without having to start the car. The dealer said I need to replace the accumulater. I bought this car about 6 weeks ago from a car lot. I'm trying to put it back in great condition. I have a few small items to replace on the interior and it should be in great shape. My heated seats don't work but the lights on the heated seat buttons come on when I switch them on. Any help on that will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-25-14, 09:39 AM
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"operate the pump motor" HOW? does it just do its thing when the engine is started? Sorry to resurrect an old post. Just trying to learn more about these cars.
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Old 09-25-14, 10:06 PM
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just remove the TRAC and ABS lol
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Old 06-02-17, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dicer View Post
"operate the pump motor" HOW? does it just do its thing when the engine is started? Sorry to resurrect an old post. Just trying to learn more about these cars.
can anyone answer this question. I'll be replacing the trac pump and would like to bleed it myself. My trac pump died due to hose failure as described in st post. My car is a 92 SC400
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Old 09-16-17, 08:44 AM
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emLEX
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Originally Posted by dicer View Post
"operate the pump motor" HOW?
I have the same question.
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Old 09-16-17, 10:16 AM
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Starting the car activates the trac pump.

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Old 05-23-19, 04:13 PM
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pishta
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the TRAC relay is the top right corner relay in the 4 relay pod next to the trac motor (mine was pink) . You can pull the relay and jump the 2 top pins (the ones that are farthest apart) and that will allow you to manually cycle the TRAC motor. My TRAC motor was making an awful GRRRRRR sound for about 10 seconds after I started the car (would come on within 2 seconds of starting) then it would shut off and the TRAC light would come on 7 seconds later. I loosened the acumulator bleeder and nothing came out with no pump running. IIRC the accumulator is just a nitrogen charged reservoir that acts like a "spring" for the fluid as the nitrogen compresses. IF the seal between the piston and the gas chamber is bad, it will leak the high pressure nitrogen into the fluid chamber. Also I noticed the motor makes a different lower pitch when its actually building pressure. IIRC your not supposed to run the TRAC motor for longer than 10 seconds at a time? Although it never got hot when I was bleeding the accumulator. I just looped the clear bleeder hose right up into the M/C and watched the bubbles until it ran clear.
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Old 05-28-19, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by pishta View Post
the TRAC relay is the top right corner relay in the 4 relay pod next to the trac motor (mine was pink) . You can pull the relay and jump the 2 top pins (the ones that are farthest apart) and that will allow you to manually cycle the TRAC motor. My TRAC motor was making an awful GRRRRRR sound for about 10 seconds after I started the car (would come on within 2 seconds of starting) then it would shut off and the TRAC light would come on 7 seconds later. I loosened the acumulator bleeder and nothing came out with no pump running. IIRC the accumulator is just a nitrogen charged reservoir that acts like a "spring" for the fluid as the nitrogen compresses. IF the seal between the piston and the gas chamber is bad, it will leak the high pressure nitrogen into the fluid chamber. Also I noticed the motor makes a different lower pitch when its actually building pressure. IIRC your not supposed to run the TRAC motor for longer than 10 seconds at a time? Although it never got hot when I was bleeding the accumulator. I just looped the clear bleeder hose right up into the M/C and watched the bubbles until it ran clear.
any chance you can take a couple of pictures of the connector and pins you're describing. I'm about to bleed my system
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