DIY: IS350 front brakes (w/o removing caliper)
#241
Driver School Candidate
Strange you saw more dust with the 350 calipers. I did a similar swap on my g35 from single piston to a dual piston front caliper and the dusting went away. It was the reason myself and everyone else did the swap- to stop the break dust. I've used both calipers with OEM Nissan brake pads.
My girlfriend's is250 front brakes dust terribly and that's why I was thinking about getting the bigger brakes so I don't have to clean the wheels every week.
My girlfriend's is250 front brakes dust terribly and that's why I was thinking about getting the bigger brakes so I don't have to clean the wheels every week.
#242
Keeping it Real
iTrader: (1)
What was the pad material that Nissan used with both brake setups? Were they different? That's what you need to consider.
If you want to avoid cleaning the wheels, change the pads. Lexus offered an alternative pad material for IS250 and IS350 models in order to reduce the dust (they also reduce the initial bite/brake performance). The Textar T4146 pads are known for their high dust levels.
Jeff
If you want to avoid cleaning the wheels, change the pads. Lexus offered an alternative pad material for IS250 and IS350 models in order to reduce the dust (they also reduce the initial bite/brake performance). The Textar T4146 pads are known for their high dust levels.
Jeff
#243
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Texas
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I got the akebono to replace the stock about a year ago.
The new pads rid of the annoying dust but theys are not working like the stocked ones.
The stocked ones were more biting and worked better in wet weather.
I'll probably go back to the stock soon.
The new pads rid of the annoying dust but theys are not working like the stocked ones.
The stocked ones were more biting and worked better in wet weather.
I'll probably go back to the stock soon.
#244
Ok I'm confused and need some clarity. My front brake pads are down to 2mm. Need to be changed for sure. But my confusion is, do I need to have the rotors resurfaced? I've done some research and have found mixed opinions. Some say it's ideal and some say they've done w/o it have had no issues.
I've had a Toyota dealership and a Lexus dealership both recommend to have the pads replaced and rotors resurfaced. Now, OP and other IS350 owners here apparently have replaced the pads only and left the rotors alone. Question is; how has it worked for you? Any issues at all? And is this what the majority of IS350 owners do? FYI, I don't see any major damages to the rotors, no pulsating, no cracks or any issues. Just some show of wear like squeaks when I apply the brakes, some rusts on the outer edges, and shallow surface grooves.
I've had a Toyota dealership and a Lexus dealership both recommend to have the pads replaced and rotors resurfaced. Now, OP and other IS350 owners here apparently have replaced the pads only and left the rotors alone. Question is; how has it worked for you? Any issues at all? And is this what the majority of IS350 owners do? FYI, I don't see any major damages to the rotors, no pulsating, no cracks or any issues. Just some show of wear like squeaks when I apply the brakes, some rusts on the outer edges, and shallow surface grooves.
#245
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
Ok I'm confused and need some clarity. My front brake pads are down to 2mm. Need to be changed for sure. But my confusion is, do I need to have the rotors resurfaced? I've done some research and have found mixed opinions. Some say it's ideal and some say they've done w/o it have had no issues.
I've had a Toyota dealership and a Lexus dealership both recommend to have the pads replaced and rotors resurfaced. Now, OP and other IS350 owners here apparently have replaced the pads only and left the rotors alone. Question is; how has it worked for you? Any issues at all? And is this what the majority of IS350 owners do? FYI, I don't see any major damages to the rotors, no pulsating, no cracks or any issues. Just some show of wear like squeaks when I apply the brakes, some rusts on the outer edges, and shallow surface grooves.
I've had a Toyota dealership and a Lexus dealership both recommend to have the pads replaced and rotors resurfaced. Now, OP and other IS350 owners here apparently have replaced the pads only and left the rotors alone. Question is; how has it worked for you? Any issues at all? And is this what the majority of IS350 owners do? FYI, I don't see any major damages to the rotors, no pulsating, no cracks or any issues. Just some show of wear like squeaks when I apply the brakes, some rusts on the outer edges, and shallow surface grooves.
Also, I replaced the front and rear brake pads on my motorcycle without resurfacing the rotors and I'm still alive.
#246
I don't get my rotors resurfaced when I change my own pads on my IS250. Haven't had any problems. Of course the dealership recommends resurfacing them, because that's what dealerships do; they try to get as much money out of you as possible. As long as the aren't deep scratches in the rotor, no uneven wear, and it is still within specs, replacing just the pads is fine.
Also, I replaced the front and rear brake pads on my motorcycle without resurfacing the rotors and I'm still alive.
Also, I replaced the front and rear brake pads on my motorcycle without resurfacing the rotors and I'm still alive.
#248
Driver School Candidate
Hi all, would appreciate your ideas?
i have installed Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1118 Ceramic Disc Pad Set on front of my 2006 IS350 using this excellent manual. Now i have annoying shaming squeaking on the front passenger side (attached mp3). the squealing is directly proportional to the wheel rotation speed and disappears when brakes are applied. at slow speeds <10mph and when just started I do not hear a squeak but with speed and time the squealing appears and stabilizes. it is present on the highway as well.
i have revised and re-greased the brake shims and springs 3 times already with no results.
tried hugging and pulling/pushing the wheel - no free movement noticed meaning bearings are ok?
when i turn the wheel i do hear a light metal-metal noise in a specific point of rotation but failing to id the source....
could it be the calipers need maintenance? never touched them since was able to replace the pads directly.
i have installed Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1118 Ceramic Disc Pad Set on front of my 2006 IS350 using this excellent manual. Now i have annoying shaming squeaking on the front passenger side (attached mp3). the squealing is directly proportional to the wheel rotation speed and disappears when brakes are applied. at slow speeds <10mph and when just started I do not hear a squeak but with speed and time the squealing appears and stabilizes. it is present on the highway as well.
i have revised and re-greased the brake shims and springs 3 times already with no results.
tried hugging and pulling/pushing the wheel - no free movement noticed meaning bearings are ok?
when i turn the wheel i do hear a light metal-metal noise in a specific point of rotation but failing to id the source....
could it be the calipers need maintenance? never touched them since was able to replace the pads directly.
#249
Pole Position
iTrader: (13)
Hi all, would appreciate your ideas?
i have installed Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1118 Ceramic Disc Pad Set on front of my 2006 IS350 using this excellent manual. Now i have annoying shaming squeaking on the front passenger side (attached mp3). the squealing is directly proportional to the wheel rotation speed and disappears when brakes are applied. at slow speeds <10mph and when just started I do not hear a squeak but with speed and time the squealing appears and stabilizes. it is present on the highway as well.
i have revised and re-greased the brake shims and springs 3 times already with no results.
tried hugging and pulling/pushing the wheel - no free movement noticed meaning bearings are ok?
when i turn the wheel i do hear a light metal-metal noise in a specific point of rotation but failing to id the source....
could it be the calipers need maintenance? never touched them since was able to replace the pads directly.
i have installed Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1118 Ceramic Disc Pad Set on front of my 2006 IS350 using this excellent manual. Now i have annoying shaming squeaking on the front passenger side (attached mp3). the squealing is directly proportional to the wheel rotation speed and disappears when brakes are applied. at slow speeds <10mph and when just started I do not hear a squeak but with speed and time the squealing appears and stabilizes. it is present on the highway as well.
i have revised and re-greased the brake shims and springs 3 times already with no results.
tried hugging and pulling/pushing the wheel - no free movement noticed meaning bearings are ok?
when i turn the wheel i do hear a light metal-metal noise in a specific point of rotation but failing to id the source....
could it be the calipers need maintenance? never touched them since was able to replace the pads directly.
#250
Driver School Candidate
i got mine pads from auto zone, and had them installed last week, it is been a week now no squeaking noise, my stock pads made noise when i backing out or slow moving, do you reuse the pad shims? When I removed my OEM pads there is two shims plate on the pads was separated from the pads that is probably its made squeaking noise?
I put white lithium grease between the shims.... extra info: I have replaced the pads on both front wheels and the driver's side is totally fine (apart from brake dust)...
any more ideas from the experts please?
#251
Pole Position
iTrader: (13)
thanks for your response, I reused the 2nd (outer, facing caliper) shims (by the way they are approx. 65% of the height of the interior shims... did i use the correct ones?) , the inner shim was glued to the exterior of the brake pad itself
I put white lithium grease between the shims.... extra info: I have replaced the pads on both front wheels and the driver's side is totally fine (apart from brake dust)...
any more ideas from the experts please?
I put white lithium grease between the shims.... extra info: I have replaced the pads on both front wheels and the driver's side is totally fine (apart from brake dust)...
any more ideas from the experts please?
#252
Rookie
iTrader: (2)
Hi all, would appreciate your ideas?
i have installed Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1118 Ceramic Disc Pad Set on front of my 2006 IS350 using this excellent manual. Now i have annoying shaming squeaking on the front passenger side (attached mp3). the squealing is directly proportional to the wheel rotation speed and disappears when brakes are applied. at slow speeds <10mph and when just started I do not hear a squeak but with speed and time the squealing appears and stabilizes. it is present on the highway as well.
i have revised and re-greased the brake shims and springs 3 times already with no results.
tried hugging and pulling/pushing the wheel - no free movement noticed meaning bearings are ok?
when i turn the wheel i do hear a light metal-metal noise in a specific point of rotation but failing to id the source....
could it be the calipers need maintenance? never touched them since was able to replace the pads directly.
i have installed Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1118 Ceramic Disc Pad Set on front of my 2006 IS350 using this excellent manual. Now i have annoying shaming squeaking on the front passenger side (attached mp3). the squealing is directly proportional to the wheel rotation speed and disappears when brakes are applied. at slow speeds <10mph and when just started I do not hear a squeak but with speed and time the squealing appears and stabilizes. it is present on the highway as well.
i have revised and re-greased the brake shims and springs 3 times already with no results.
tried hugging and pulling/pushing the wheel - no free movement noticed meaning bearings are ok?
when i turn the wheel i do hear a light metal-metal noise in a specific point of rotation but failing to id the source....
could it be the calipers need maintenance? never touched them since was able to replace the pads directly.
For checking wheel bearing, grab top and bottom of tire an pull for play, assume the car was suspended in the air right?
That sounds like something contacting due to warpage or out of place. Rotor contacting caliper, maybe loose sway bar end link, you have the proper pad springs installed? For it to stop abruptly, tells me something is installed wrong and just finds a neutral point to be happy at some point. Check out the things I suggested an let me know what you find.
#253
Driver School Candidate
Problem was solved - culprit was the pads misplacement (inner vs outer) as I had the pad with the attached "S"-shaped clip/spring on the outer side. and it was causing squeaking. the moment I switched pads so the one with the clip went on the inside - squeaking disappeared.
improvement suggestion for the DIY guide - stress the pads positioning for n00bs like me
improvement suggestion for the DIY guide - stress the pads positioning for n00bs like me
#254
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (2)
Folks - Dot 3 Glycol fluid absorbs moisture. These fluids are hygroscopic and need changed. Manual calls every 50/60k mi. 2 to 3 years is a good number for those intending to keep their car for years.
FWIW: Dot 4 absorb moisture quicker. It should be done every 2 years. Synthetics may be longer...
Last little bit - Do your brake fluid changes during low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and degrading the fluid. Using fluid from an open container is BAD as it has been absorbing moisture from the day it was opened and should be disposed of. New unopened container only!
FWIW: Dot 4 absorb moisture quicker. It should be done every 2 years. Synthetics may be longer...
Last little bit - Do your brake fluid changes during low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and degrading the fluid. Using fluid from an open container is BAD as it has been absorbing moisture from the day it was opened and should be disposed of. New unopened container only!
The following users liked this post:
Atgif (08-18-17)
#255
Driver School Candidate
Folks - Dot 3 Glycol fluid absorbs moisture. These fluids are hygroscopic and need changed. Manual calls every 50/60k mi. 2 to 3 years is a good number for those intending to keep their car for years.
FWIW: Dot 4 absorb moisture quicker. It should be done every 2 years. Synthetics may be longer...
Last little bit - Do your brake fluid changes during low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and degrading the fluid. Using fluid from an open container is BAD as it has been absorbing moisture from the day it was opened and should be disposed of. New unopened container only!
FWIW: Dot 4 absorb moisture quicker. It should be done every 2 years. Synthetics may be longer...
Last little bit - Do your brake fluid changes during low humidity days to reduce moisture being trapped in the system and degrading the fluid. Using fluid from an open container is BAD as it has been absorbing moisture from the day it was opened and should be disposed of. New unopened container only!
Last edited by Atgif; 08-18-17 at 08:21 AM.
The following users liked this post:
2013FSport (08-19-17)