EBC Red Stuff pads install - squeakies
03-28-06, 06:36 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
EBC Red Stuff pads install - squeakies
Front:
I used only the shims that came with the Red Stuff pads, the outter metal ones.
Rear:
The rear pads have a polymer layer on the back similar to the teflon shim for the stock pads. I reused the stock metal shim over the top.
My brakes are squealing. I'm going to put the stock teflon shims on the front and the back along with a touch of that lovely lube you get when you buy the teflon shims new.
Can anyone just confirm that is my problem and that installing the teflon shims will fix it?
I used only the shims that came with the Red Stuff pads, the outter metal ones.
Rear:
The rear pads have a polymer layer on the back similar to the teflon shim for the stock pads. I reused the stock metal shim over the top.
My brakes are squealing. I'm going to put the stock teflon shims on the front and the back along with a touch of that lovely lube you get when you buy the teflon shims new.
Can anyone just confirm that is my problem and that installing the teflon shims will fix it?
Last edited by jonathancl; 03-28-06 at 06:39 AM.
03-28-06, 08:36 AM
#2
I know when i did my rear brakes i didn't use any shims at all because the EBC has them built in... As far as the front pads go i also have the Red stuff and i don't think I'm using metal shims up front either... Contact lexforlife.. He did the fronts for me so contact him to make sure... Good Luck... 
No squeaks at all.....
No squeaks at all.....
03-28-06, 08:45 AM
#4
Lexus Champion
First assuming the condiction of your rotors is very good or recently turned. The rotor is a common squeel source. A smooth pad surface required and warp should be at a minimum.
Use care to insure the shims are positioned correctly... they are usually keyed and go in one way. Shim pairs should lay even and flat.
The dark grey grease is synthetic, high temp brake caliper grease... "CRC" brand, for example, sells it in small packets or in a pint sized plastic tub. Its purpose is to stop pad vibration (squeel), lubricate and help prevent rusting. The grease melting point is very high to reduce grease migration due to brake application temperature. It replaces the "gold-copper" caliper grease.
I personally place a "thin-even" coat on the pad backs , both sides of the shims, but not the cup face.
Additionally, a "thin-even" amount on the caliper, where the pads lay into the caliper and upper and lower contact points on the pads. .. after cleaning off any previous existing rust. (this is a squeel point)
Take care to wipe off any excess grease with a rag and brake cleaner or solvent. Focus on the pad contact face and the rotors, any exposed areas of the outer pad and it's shims.
Lastly, remove and lubricate the outside of the slider bolts, so brake pressure is evenly distributed to both inner and outer pads as the caliper floats. Note how the sliders key into the caliper prior to removing to insure replacement is correct. Be careful not to tear the rubber boots as you remove the sliders one at a time. Rotate and work the grease into the caliper holes as they are reinstalled and keyed, prior to replacing its mounting bolt.. Use the "wet" or greased torque on the14mm mount bolts...23 Ft Lb Front...20 Ft Lbs Rear.
Remember a little bit of grease goes a long way; use it sparingly..... Recheck for any grease "squeeze out" after assembly and pedal testing.
Use care to insure the shims are positioned correctly... they are usually keyed and go in one way. Shim pairs should lay even and flat.
The dark grey grease is synthetic, high temp brake caliper grease... "CRC" brand, for example, sells it in small packets or in a pint sized plastic tub. Its purpose is to stop pad vibration (squeel), lubricate and help prevent rusting. The grease melting point is very high to reduce grease migration due to brake application temperature. It replaces the "gold-copper" caliper grease.
I personally place a "thin-even" coat on the pad backs , both sides of the shims, but not the cup face.
Additionally, a "thin-even" amount on the caliper, where the pads lay into the caliper and upper and lower contact points on the pads. .. after cleaning off any previous existing rust. (this is a squeel point)
Take care to wipe off any excess grease with a rag and brake cleaner or solvent. Focus on the pad contact face and the rotors, any exposed areas of the outer pad and it's shims.
Lastly, remove and lubricate the outside of the slider bolts, so brake pressure is evenly distributed to both inner and outer pads as the caliper floats. Note how the sliders key into the caliper prior to removing to insure replacement is correct. Be careful not to tear the rubber boots as you remove the sliders one at a time. Rotate and work the grease into the caliper holes as they are reinstalled and keyed, prior to replacing its mounting bolt.. Use the "wet" or greased torque on the14mm mount bolts...23 Ft Lb Front...20 Ft Lbs Rear.
Remember a little bit of grease goes a long way; use it sparingly..... Recheck for any grease "squeeze out" after assembly and pedal testing.
04-05-06, 08:18 AM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
I put the stock teflon squeal shims in (correctly) with a modicum of grease on either side.
The squeakies haven't changed. It's definitely the pads on the rotor, and I'm pretty sure it's only the front.
I didn't have the rotors turned, but they were only a year old, used with stock pads for 15k miles or so, very little aggressive breaking, mostly hiway miles. The surface is smooth.
I do notice, however, that they only squeak once the warm up. They are silent when cold or after a long period without braking.
The squeal is only during light to medium breaking pressure. It goes away under harder pressure.
Also, I cannot make them squeal in reverse. Even if I heat them up they will not squeal in reverse. I'm using brembo slotted rotors in the front. I'm wondering if swapping the front rotors (left to right) would fix it. It's just an idea I thought I would float...
The squeakies haven't changed. It's definitely the pads on the rotor, and I'm pretty sure it's only the front.
I didn't have the rotors turned, but they were only a year old, used with stock pads for 15k miles or so, very little aggressive breaking, mostly hiway miles. The surface is smooth.
I do notice, however, that they only squeak once the warm up. They are silent when cold or after a long period without braking.
The squeal is only during light to medium breaking pressure. It goes away under harder pressure.
Also, I cannot make them squeal in reverse. Even if I heat them up they will not squeal in reverse. I'm using brembo slotted rotors in the front. I'm wondering if swapping the front rotors (left to right) would fix it. It's just an idea I thought I would float...
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