mfahey

The brakes on my 01 gs300 are starting to go. What is a good mid-priced set of brakes to get?

I dont want to spend $5,000 just on brakes, just something better then I have.

If I get new brakes do I have to get new rotors too or do they come with the package?

What is everyone else running? My current stock breaks suck.

Post some links for me. Thanks guys.

Fisher503

There is alot of options so what is your budget?
TT Brakes less then $1000
AP Racing $3000 but oh boy do they stop.

Neo

iTrader: (3)

What is bad about your current brakes? The feel/feedback? Actual stopping power? Fade?

The GS brakes are pretty good and can be minorly upgraded with SS lines, pads, rotors, and even better tires.

If you want to go all out, then get a big brake kit. It depends on the problem and the budget you are willing to spend to fix it.

nate579

iTrader: (4)

Well I read somewhere that GS can do a 60-0 in something like 108ft, that's in the same catagory as some sport cars, with the industry average is like 122ft. I think the shortest done was like 98ft buy a few supercars. BBK probaly get you close that. But maybe just need to upgrade your rotors and pads. That's definitely on my MOD list.

upstateGS4

iTrader: (1)

hey if your brakes are just going and the rotors check out to be fine, maybe consider going the same route i did like 3 weeks ago. just hit up tire rack.com and got a full set of the satisfied pro ceramic pads, along with the goodrich stainless lines, and i think the whole package was less than a few hundred bucks. my pads were worn when i got the car thats why i did this upgrade, so considering that, i definitely felt a difference in stopping power and alot less mushy pedal feel. no more mushy pedal is good, we all know upstategs4's dont like mushy pedals. lol

blacksc400

iTrader: (4)

yes, sometimes a good set of brake pads and rotor can do the trick... I personally like EBC and project MU!

bobbyt01nc

What are TT Brakes? what does $1000 include?

What's the advantage of stainless steel lines leading to brakes v.s. the normal line(whatever they are).
I'm curious as well for upgrading brakes/pads at a cheap price (or a little more than stock stuff from dealer) as I feel like I'm heading in that direction of having to replace my stock pads/rotors?

StopTech

I think the TT brakes he is talking about are Supra Twin Turbo brakes. Such upgrades usually throw brake balance off and as a result stopping distances grow longer. This is with all other things being equal.

Stock brake lines are made from rubber. OE manufacturers usually have durability as their main priority with performance later. With rubber lines they have a tendency to stretch and expand under brake fluid pressure thus causing more pedal travel and that spongy feeling. With Stainless steel lines, the expansion is no longer there. All the fluid pressure goes to the caliper.

Here is some more info
http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq31.htm

Might I suggest a StopTech stage kit. It include high performance street pads, rotors, lines and Motul RBF600 fluid. The package is a good performance upgrade for stock calipers. The pads has a higher co-efficient of friction and a higher max operating temperature, both characteristics of more performance. Stoptech stainless steel lines that have each been individually pressure tested. They are made to DOT specifications also known as DOT approved and include a plastic coating over the stainless steel braiding. The plastic coating helps prevent corrosion of the stainless steel. Without the coating small rocks, pebbles and dirt can get worked into the line and eventually damaging the teflon tubing inside. The fluid is a performance brake fluid which takes more to boil over. It's boiling point is about 590 deg. Last but not least are the rotors that can come either slotted or x-drilled. The rotors come from ISO 9000 foundries which produce rotors which are OE quality or better.

mfahey

thanks for all the input. My price range is 0-999 . I don't need $2000 brakes. ( but i want it)

The main problem is I need brakes soon, the rotors have been resurfaced two times and
I want better rotors.

I want to replace the brake pads and the rotors. I've had alot of problems with the rotors warping.
Alot of people have suggested cross drilled rotors. Any good kits for maybe $400 ?

thanks

sockfocks

iTrader: (1)

One cause of rotor warp is uneven torqueing of wheel lug nuts. Request that your wheels are torqued with a torque wrench instead of using an impact wrench, which can tighten a lot more than the torque specified for the lug nuts. I'm sure someone else can chime in on this and back me up.

Fisher503

Hey STOPTECH are you saying that a GS with AP Racing 6piston up front takes longer to stop then stock?

3dog

iTrader: (1)

Hey do you make these for a GS400?
I looked on your web-site and only saw them for the IS.

3dog

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

your statement needs to be quantified bro , as there are dozens of us for at least the last 3 yrs and going that have this setup including me and do not exp to that degree what you are talking about what we/i exp is brake bias


i wont get into another match with you over this but that statement about longer dist with tt is not true

StopTech

I'm saying that not all brake kits will shorten the stopping distances of vehicles. Take a look at the Road and Track's SPEED magazine in the July/August of 05. The Mazda RX-8 has 6 piston calipers on the front. I'll let the numbers speak for themselves. The StopTech equiped mustang was the heaviest car in that test.

I can't speak for the AP kit. Some manufacturers, not AP necessarily, will use the same calipers with the same piston sizes across many of their applications. All cars are different, so why would the brake torque output be the same?

I'll get some created for the GS. Prices should be similiar to the IS stage kit

I speak from the perspective of theory and real world testing from this company. Experience has told that the mass majority of vehicles from the factory come with nearly perfect brake balance. That is an assumption in the statements that I make. There is no reason for any manufacturer to not have nearly perfect balance (older cars without abs are usually front biased for safety).

Testing without a radar gun or something like GPS has too many vaiables to accurately see what is going on. The TT brakes may be an exception but until all variables are made constant, there is no way to tell what really goes on. Caliper extension brackets and larger rotors are usually the culprit of such brake balance misdemeanors. Nearly all of the statements I make are not definitive, and do not cover all situations. Hence the use of the word "usually".

Krupski2

I am looking at new brakes too, but paying 1K for brakes it a lil crazy IMO. I would rather spend a few hundred and spend the rest on a vacation somewhere. To each their own.