engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Bummer.
I dunno, maybe I'm nutso, but what freakin' Einstein decided to design a little dinky 5mm hex fitting in the end of the endlink bolt with a nut on it that has to be torqued to 48 foot-pounds?
Did the Daizen Sway install thing yesterday, almost. Got the front one in no problem. The rear seemed easier, but.....my endlink bolt/nut was rusted from the East Coast weather & road salt. I stripped the inside hex fitting of one of the rear endlinks cause I needed to put so much torque on it to break it free. Can't reuse it now cause there's no way to re-tighten & re-torque it, so I guess I have to buy new ones tomorrow. Had I been able to see it, I might have known to spray it with penetrating oil before I started.
Anyone know how much $$$ these go for, before I get raked by the stealership? These things are like mini ball joints, so I don't expect them to be cheap.

JellyBean

Bummer, allright. I don't know what the end link will cost, but maybe the following will help.

I installed the daizens a few weeks back. I used the hex wrench to keep the stud from turning while removing (or reinstalling) the nut with either a rachet or a box end wrench (I forget which). I did not apply any torque whatsoever to the hex wrench--I held it with my bare hands. As a matter of fact, I inserted the hex wrench after breaking the nut from the stud. For reinstallation, after torquing the nut a few pounds, you can remove the hex wrench and continue torquing to spec. Good luck, and rest assured that your efforts will be amply rewarded.

GS300Rich

I have the daisen sways and the sway bar end link on the drivers side snapped off because of the daisen sways. I guess they were set at the stiffest setting, which I told the installer not to do, and it just snapped. I ordered a new endlink from the dealership for $100. I think that is a common price, but if you dont mind waiting you can pm Steve (supratrd) and I think I read where another member got his for $50.

rominl

iTrader: (4)

wow, 100 bucks i would think that's abit on the high side. mine are on the stiffest settings right now too, hoepfully they dont' break

GS300Rich

yeah $100 is a little much, but I had to pay it because it needed to be done. I didnt really want to drive around with a broken link. I talked to another member who purchased his from Steve for around $50 and that sounded a little better. The main reason I went ahead and bought it from the dealer is because they said they would install it for free while I am getting a whole bunch of other stuff done.

rominl

iTrader: (4)

yah that's true, if you already have some stuff done at the dealer anyway, might just as well, right?

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

I decided to get just one, since my second link isn't stripped and I can get the rust off and salvage it. I had my local dealer order it and I'm paying $80 for it, I figured it wasn't too bad given what you guys have been saying, and I'll get it in one day. I would have had to FedEx it from Steve even if he had it in stock, which I'm sure he doesn't. I have a call in to him anyway but haven't heard back.

I found it also a bit odd that if you bend the link end (the ball joint end) a lot, OIL can seep out from under the boot, it isn't sealed. I'm wondering whether you need to oil them again before putting them back, and what oil to use if so. ???

PHML

iTrader: (33)

dont forget to use threadlockers....cuz the end bolts/nuts tend to get loose.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Pete - I'm using the Blue Loctite threadlocker stuff, is that strong enough?

DetMich1

When Todd at TM engineering installed my Daizen sways last month we found the the driver's side end link in front was bent, the one on the same side in back we couldn't get loose from the stock sway bar. Ended up buying two new endlinks. Todd got em from Carson or else a local Lexus dealer, either way I think he charged me about $110 total for both of them ($60 front/$50 rear) He used Blue loctite I believe also. Did you remember to take off the rear link and rotate it 180 degrees before remounting it?

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Thanks DetMich1. Yeah, I will reverse the endlinks, they're both off the car right now. I got my new one so I'll put the rear back together this weekend.
I also used a grease gun to squirt Mobil1 synthethic grease underneath the boot of each endlink.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

That's perfect...good job!!

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Got the Daizens and the TRD Lower Control Brace in.
Awesome mod like everyone has said - you can lean on the car in turns, and it's way more stable all the way around.

BayAreaLex

Anyone have a torque spec on those endlinks?

And surprised to see people recommending loctite, but I guess I will do that.