legendary

perhaps you ca n submit this to lex400sc to add to the SC FAQ on intellexual.net

Khaos

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have the torque settings for all the bolts involved in changing the shocks and springs. I'm getting ready to change out my suspension, so some torque numbers would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Brandon

rscott

http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/...ent/index.html
Make sure you distinguish between ft-lbs and nm when reading the torque specs or you will break something.

thats basically all you need to know to change out your shocks.

The writeup was great but there are a few things that could make it a little easier. Ive done it several times now and pretty much have it down to a science:

-remove the nut that holds the endlink to the sway bar. It allows the hub to sit lower so that the strut will just slide out.
-When reinstalling the upper control arm, install the huge bolt from the other direction so that if ever you have to do anymore suspension work, you can do it without removing the fender liner.
-Loosen that middle nut that holds the upper mount onto the strut before removing. That way you wont need air toold
-Only take off the part of the caliper that clamps the pads. You can work around the bracket still being there so that you can leave the pads where they sit.
-That wire worries me. haha. I just rested the caliper on the LCA for the front and on the sway bar in the rear. They conveniently hook onto them with just the right line length.

-The rears can be done 6 in steps
-Loosen mount nut
-remove caliper
-remove shock bolt
-remove endlink nut and slide endlink out of sway bar
-remove 3 nuts on top
-slide strut out (when sliding out press down on the hub and the strut will sort of just fall out when coerced a little bit) having a buddy stand on it and bounce up and down helps alot.

-Breaker bars, breaker bars, breaker bars. For those of us without the air tools, breaker bars are the greatest thing ever invented. i used 2 when removing the upper control arm bolt. that thing is torqued quite tightly. (121ft-lbs )
-Have lots of hand cleaner ready.

JZZ30TT

Yea, you did a bit more work than is necessary in the front. But, good write up non-the-less

rscott

you defiinitely dont need to but it makes the install alot easier and only takes a minute or so to do. With my patented system (just kidding) you can knock out the whole thing (or i did at least) in under 2 hours start to finish minus adjusting the coilovers. I like things perfect so i think i spent more time adjusting my coilovers than doing the actual install

JZZ30TT

Why remove the brake caliper?

rscott

on the rears the bleeder screw gets in the way of the strut sliding out real easy. Its not necessary but makes things easy. Its only 2 bolts. Also, it clears the brake line so that the strut is easier to pull off the car. You dont have to remove it completely, just leave the line attached. There are alot of things that are unnecessary to completing the task, they just make things easier.

Khaos

iTrader: (1)

Thanks rscott!!

no2faber

Thanks a lot for the writeup! I didn't check, but if this isn't stickied it should be. i've been doing as much research as i can on replacing shock/springs b/c i'm going to try to replace mine (first major car job) in the spring. this thread was really helpful.
kind of off topic, but has anyone done suspension plus bushing swap? how much longer does it take, and how much harder does it make the job?

JZZ30TT

Hmmm interesting.. I've never had that problem. Changed my suspension several times.. ohwell.

rscott

maybe not the bleeder screw...but something there. It just makes it alot easier. like i said its not necessary but it does make things easy

siaxazn

The rears were very easy to take out basically i only unbolted the bolts that hold the strut in, and that was it. It came out with the big pole technique. just use a big pole to pry down on the hub and the strut should come out with no problem.

I also as i said before removing the brake calipers are not nessecary but sure it would safer to remove them if u dont want to risk damaging the brake lines when u pry down on the hub to make room for the struts to come out.

Also removing the sway bar end links would help as it does somewhat get in the way of the front stuts but its not nessecary. I must say removing the sway bar endlinks is a very tough task. when i had to change my endlinks it could not get it off for the life of me. I had to bring it to my mechanic and he had to torch it off. but maybe thats just in my case. But neways it can be done with out removing the endlinks so i hope that may help some people out.

using the big pole techinic will save you alot of time and work.

96sc3

iTrader: (1)

this is very nice,,,

Seismic

I also had diffuculty removing the swaybar endlink. Since I was replacing it anyway, I just cut it w/a hacksaw between the swaybar and the booted side. The little metal retainer that's splined stripped out, so I just cut right behind it, then used vicegrips to twist the metal ring off, then put the vicegrips on what was left and a socket w/breaker bar on the other side and torqued it off.

My problem lies w/ the part of the LCA that sits in the hub, itself. The nut twisted off w/ ease, but I can't get the darn threaded shaft to come out. I have pounded on it w/ a block of steel in front of it and used a sledge. I tried forks behind it. I heated it w/ an acetaline torch... It won't budge. I'm thinking I'm going to have some problems w/ the subframe mounting bolt too.

Any ideas guys?

sc300ccret

About two days before you attempt this feat, you need to SOAK and resoak the area with Liquid wrench., liquid torch or kroil......

Mike