Rear Disc Removal
09-07-06, 06:45 AM
#33
Does anybody have a picture of what a good e-brake shoe should look like? My e-brake doesn't seem to grab anything when I pull it, and it just makes a grinding noise. Although my car is an auto, I want my e-brake to work in case of emergency. I am familiar with replacing pads, but not shoes.
09-07-06, 06:51 AM
#34
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ChronoJ1
The shoes for these cars are not the easiest things to replace. I dont know how mechanically minded you are but i wouldnt try it at home.
I dont have a picture but even a brand new shoe only has material on it thats about 3-4mm deep. Doesnt look very much and to an untrained eye it would seem that the shoes are worn down. But on these cars the shoes are never used when braking, shoes are there just for parking the car.
So if it looks like you've got a couple of millimetres of meat left on them then the chances are that you just need to tighten up your e-brake.
Hope this helps.
The shoes for these cars are not the easiest things to replace. I dont know how mechanically minded you are but i wouldnt try it at home.
I dont have a picture but even a brand new shoe only has material on it thats about 3-4mm deep. Doesnt look very much and to an untrained eye it would seem that the shoes are worn down. But on these cars the shoes are never used when braking, shoes are there just for parking the car.
So if it looks like you've got a couple of millimetres of meat left on them then the chances are that you just need to tighten up your e-brake.
Hope this helps.
09-07-06, 11:55 AM
#35
ChronoJ1
The shoes for these cars are not the easiest things to replace. I dont know how mechanically minded you are but i wouldnt try it at home.
I dont have a picture but even a brand new shoe only has material on it thats about 3-4mm deep. Doesnt look very much and to an untrained eye it would seem that the shoes are worn down. But on these cars the shoes are never used when braking, shoes are there just for parking the car.
So if it looks like you've got a couple of millimetres of meat left on them then the chances are that you just need to tighten up your e-brake.
Hope this helps.
The shoes for these cars are not the easiest things to replace. I dont know how mechanically minded you are but i wouldnt try it at home.
I dont have a picture but even a brand new shoe only has material on it thats about 3-4mm deep. Doesnt look very much and to an untrained eye it would seem that the shoes are worn down. But on these cars the shoes are never used when braking, shoes are there just for parking the car.
So if it looks like you've got a couple of millimetres of meat left on them then the chances are that you just need to tighten up your e-brake.
Hope this helps.
Sent you a PM.
02-26-09, 08:06 PM
#38
I just removed my original 14yr old rotors, that were rusty as hell.
5 yrs since he posted it, and I used W4SIM's method of using a spare tire jack in between the strut and rotor. All I had to do was turn the jack just a little until it applied pressure, then I spun the rotor and did the same thing on the other side, then I tapped it with a rubber mallet, and it gently came right off in my hand...no bang or nothing. It was a beautiful thing.
Thanks again, and this thread should be in your FAQ section btw
5 yrs since he posted it, and I used W4SIM's method of using a spare tire jack in between the strut and rotor. All I had to do was turn the jack just a little until it applied pressure, then I spun the rotor and did the same thing on the other side, then I tapped it with a rubber mallet, and it gently came right off in my hand...no bang or nothing. It was a beautiful thing.
Thanks again, and this thread should be in your FAQ section btw
02-27-09, 03:42 AM
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02-27-09, 08:32 AM
#40
Lexus Test Driver
I had to pound the $*$&%*#)%&*$) out of my rotors to get them to come off, ESPECIALLY THE REAR!! Liquid Wrench was the only reason why they even came off though, the hammer was just tickling that damn thing.
03-11-09, 08:27 AM
#41
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I figured I would just add another option to this thread for removing the disc. I placed a small, thick steel sheet/bar that I had handy on top of the centering hub and then used 2 C-clamps space 180 degrees from each other to pinch the disc and plate "together". This method evenly loads the disc so there is less of a possibility of wedging it-if that's a problem.
Last edited by neodymium; 03-11-09 at 08:34 AM.
10-03-09, 01:34 PM
#42
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just replaced mine today, was such a b1tch!! to do. Let them soak over night with wd40. didnt seem to do much. tried the hammer and car jack method. no luck. used some PB blaster and bought some 8 x 1.25 mm bolts to remove the stock rotors. worked like magic after i let the PB soakin for about 20 minutes. Didnt quiet get my ebrake to go 90 degrees but did get it about 80 degrees and when u turn that cog. It should click and kinda spring against your efforts of turning it down more. Hope this helps at.
10-05-09, 07:57 AM
#43
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some of the holes in the rotor are meant to aid in removing the rotors. i believe there the size pezlo got. (8x1.25mm) screw those in to back out the rotor that way you dont have to wail on brakes like a caveman and risk breaking something.
its the same concept as using the jack but done properly
its the same concept as using the jack but done properly
10-05-09, 12:14 PM
#45
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some of the holes in the rotor are meant to aid in removing the rotors. i believe there the size pezlo got. (8x1.25mm) screw those in to back out the rotor that way you dont have to wail on brakes like a caveman and risk breaking something.
its the same concept as using the jack but done properly
its the same concept as using the jack but done properly
However, like myself, and a few others, these holes havnt worked out that way so we've had to find alternative measures.
This guide wasnt intended to show people how to take the rotors off the first time round, this was just an alternative should you happen to strip the 2 holes, or hammering them off doesnt work etc etc.
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