Rear wheel bearing or hub? good/bad brands?
03-24-19, 07:08 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Rear wheel bearing or hub? good/bad brands?
Is there really only one option for a quality replacement at $300? The koyo bearing one? Anyone use any other brands? That's as much as I did my timing belt/water pump for! I'm getting a hum at 35 to 45mph from the right rear.
I'm tempted to try the moog 512205 unless anyone has tried the raybestos 712205? Around 190 on the moog or 110 raybestos.
I'm tempted to try the moog 512205 unless anyone has tried the raybestos 712205? Around 190 on the moog or 110 raybestos.
Last edited by Trilkb; 03-24-19 at 07:17 AM.
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YUNGSUNZ (03-07-22)
03-24-19, 07:16 AM
#2
The only ones worth buying are OEM or the Timekin ones which use the Japanese Koyo bearings. You can get the front Timekin ones for $200 on Rockauto
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BTC89LS400 (05-04-19),
YUNGSUNZ (03-07-22)
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YUNGSUNZ (03-07-22)
03-24-19, 07:33 AM
#4
Yea I was actually just thinking the same thing, they have a good repuatation overall. I just replaced the lower ball joints on my LS400 and the Moog replacements were of very high quality.
Bottom line though, you can’t go wrong with the Timekin
Bottom line though, you can’t go wrong with the Timekin
03-24-19, 09:23 AM
#5
I’ve personally used Koyo for both front and rear passenger bearing hubs. They are as close to OEM as you can get. Supposedly Koyo makes the hub for Lexus. Works great with no issues. Cheaper than dealer part but probably identical. I heard good things about Timken if you want to save a few bucks. Labor was somewhat extensive so I didn’t take any chances and went with Koyo. Put them side by side after removal and looked identical.
03-24-19, 11:49 AM
#6
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Yea, I dont own this car because I'm rich though lol, I own it because I can do all my own labor. $600 for 2 hubs just in parts is absolutely crazy. I see 1 hub and a new true dual exhaust for my toy for that cost, or 80% of a new coil over purchase for the 430. I see the timken on rock auto for slightly less than the moog, must've missed that before.
Part of me is wondering if it's the tires, rotated them but noise is still there. Was gonna throw $12 at rear diff fluid too lol. This car is far from neglected, but things that can wait will wait.
Part of me is wondering if it's the tires, rotated them but noise is still there. Was gonna throw $12 at rear diff fluid too lol. This car is far from neglected, but things that can wait will wait.
03-24-19, 12:00 PM
#7
Moderator
Jack the affected corner up a few inches so you can spin the wheel by hand. You'll hear and feel a bad bearing when you turn the wheel kind of a rough grinding noise.
When I bought my430 I had a noise in the rear pass side I was convinced was a wheel bearing, turned out to be a blown shock...
When I bought my430 I had a noise in the rear pass side I was convinced was a wheel bearing, turned out to be a blown shock...
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Isaiah (10-22-22)
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03-24-19, 12:07 PM
#8
What's the mileage of your car? Wheel bearing replacements are quite common on our cars. You will find numerous threads on this subject. The one thing you can be certain about is......worn wheel bearing noise does get progressively louder with time.
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YUNGSUNZ (03-07-22)
03-24-19, 12:48 PM
#9
03-24-19, 05:55 PM
#10
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Jack the affected corner up a few inches so you can spin the wheel by hand. You'll hear and feel a bad bearing when you turn the wheel kind of a rough grinding noise.
When I bought my430 I had a noise in the rear pass side I was convinced was a wheel bearing, turned out to be a blown shock...
When I bought my430 I had a noise in the rear pass side I was convinced was a wheel bearing, turned out to be a blown shock...
03-24-19, 08:03 PM
#11
The method I like to use for isolating the bad bearing is........heading onto or off of a relative sharp highway ramp with as fast but safe enough speed, turning the steering wheel in the same direction of the suspected side of the noise. Once off the ramp and heading straight, listening for the return of the bearing noise. This method is used mostly for the rear wheel bearing. For the fronts, you can just drive at highway speeds or slower if noise is present and yank the steering wheel in the direction of the side of the car with the noise and back again, listening for the noise to lessen. Keep the radio and a/c off. To be absolutely certain before throwing away your money on the wrong part.....putting the car up on a lift ,spinning the tire and listening to the back hub area of each suspected wheel with a stethoscope or even a long screwdriver or wooden handle.
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BCT (03-24-19)
03-25-19, 09:15 AM
#12
Instructor
OEM, Koyo, and SKF are the top brands. Anything else, you should pay significantly less, and expect a lower lifespan. I wouldn't bother with the super cheap brands, unless you are doing them youself and want to practice changing them often.
My rear bearings failed in an unusual way, at 17 years of service and ~162,000kms. The rear right starting making metallic grinding sounds but only at low speeds. After a few months and ~4000kms, the rear left starting making the same sounds. Above 50km/h, no problems, no wobbling, no sounds, nothing.
I bought 2 rear Koyo bearings from Amayama, consolidated the info and pics from the DIY crowd here, printed them off and had a local shop install them.
Now, the shop messed up and the tech used the wrong bolt when reinstalling the speed sensor on my rear left side. This caused the speed sensor to sit too far from the speed encoder aka reluctor ring aka pulse wheel. This air gap causes a zero reading from the pulse wheel at low speeds, so when braking down from 18km/h to 0, the car thinks the rear left wheel has locked up (since the other 3 wheels report movement), so the ABS system kicked in upon every stop. I plugged in TechStream, figured all of this out very quickly, and had the shop fix it the next morning. Since they used the wrong bolt, it sheared off during removal, so they had to deal with that.
About 2 weeks after that, my VSC and ABS lights started going on, and TechStream says front left wheel speed sensor error. However, when doing the manual diagnostic mode (either by jumping the pins on the OBD2 block or by entering the mode via TechStream), the error codes written in the dash LCD screen indicate rear left wheel speed sensor.
There is some irregularity in the signal curves compared to the front right and rear left wheels, but all 4 wheels report speed mostly the same. Therefore I doubt the problem is the speed sensor wiring. I am getting some noticeable wobble above 90km/h so I suspect the front left bearing was damaged from one of the numerous severe potholes I've hit this winter.
I found a Raybestos front hub bearing for pretty cheap on eBay, arrived in brand new sealed Raybestos box with all the instructions and packaging. Front bearings look easy enough to DIY (rears are much more difficult) and I will attempt to change it once winter is over. New front bearings come with speed sensors, so no point trying to pry off the old sensor when a new sensor costs the same as a new bearing. You also need shop tools to press out and press in the sensor, whereas changing the entire bearing should be doable with basic hand tools.
My rear bearings failed in an unusual way, at 17 years of service and ~162,000kms. The rear right starting making metallic grinding sounds but only at low speeds. After a few months and ~4000kms, the rear left starting making the same sounds. Above 50km/h, no problems, no wobbling, no sounds, nothing.
I bought 2 rear Koyo bearings from Amayama, consolidated the info and pics from the DIY crowd here, printed them off and had a local shop install them.
Now, the shop messed up and the tech used the wrong bolt when reinstalling the speed sensor on my rear left side. This caused the speed sensor to sit too far from the speed encoder aka reluctor ring aka pulse wheel. This air gap causes a zero reading from the pulse wheel at low speeds, so when braking down from 18km/h to 0, the car thinks the rear left wheel has locked up (since the other 3 wheels report movement), so the ABS system kicked in upon every stop. I plugged in TechStream, figured all of this out very quickly, and had the shop fix it the next morning. Since they used the wrong bolt, it sheared off during removal, so they had to deal with that.
About 2 weeks after that, my VSC and ABS lights started going on, and TechStream says front left wheel speed sensor error. However, when doing the manual diagnostic mode (either by jumping the pins on the OBD2 block or by entering the mode via TechStream), the error codes written in the dash LCD screen indicate rear left wheel speed sensor.
There is some irregularity in the signal curves compared to the front right and rear left wheels, but all 4 wheels report speed mostly the same. Therefore I doubt the problem is the speed sensor wiring. I am getting some noticeable wobble above 90km/h so I suspect the front left bearing was damaged from one of the numerous severe potholes I've hit this winter.
I found a Raybestos front hub bearing for pretty cheap on eBay, arrived in brand new sealed Raybestos box with all the instructions and packaging. Front bearings look easy enough to DIY (rears are much more difficult) and I will attempt to change it once winter is over. New front bearings come with speed sensors, so no point trying to pry off the old sensor when a new sensor costs the same as a new bearing. You also need shop tools to press out and press in the sensor, whereas changing the entire bearing should be doable with basic hand tools.
Last edited by StanVanDam; 03-25-19 at 09:21 AM.
03-25-19, 12:01 PM
#13
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Yea thats why I dont want shops working on my car. First shop I ever paid money to do some performance mods screwed it all up for $3-4k. I said well hell, if they can screw it up for $3-4k I can do it myself for free, havent looked back since and dive right in to any job. All these youtube vids and write ups makes it super easy.
I found Koyo 3DACF044DCFG for 138 shipped. Im thinking this is the correct part? I can get 2 for $260 which is way more my style :-)
I found Koyo 3DACF044DCFG for 138 shipped. Im thinking this is the correct part? I can get 2 for $260 which is way more my style :-)
Last edited by Trilkb; 03-25-19 at 12:05 PM.
03-26-19, 06:54 AM
#15
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Thread Starter