2006 is350 heavy oil consumption
03-23-19, 12:41 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2006 is350 heavy oil consumption
Hello everyone,
**so I purchased an 06 is350 almost 2 months ago now and I’ve been loving it. It’s in pretty good shape for a 13 year old car. A few blemishes on the paint but nothing noticeable unless your right next to it and everything works; heated/ventilated seats, ac/heater, etc. It had 132k or 133k miles when I got it 136k now (did oil change at 134) I picked it up for 8700 which I thought was a good deal for the condition it’s in but
Not so sure now....
Ive got vland headlights & taillights and a duckbill spoiler which make it look so modern. (I will post pics later.)
so yea I’m loving the car but I changed my oil about 2k miles ago and yesterday I had my low oil light pop up and when I checked it, it was practically empty.
The car car still drives well. I’d even say it drives almost perfect, it’s still quick and handles good (I actually raced a buddy with a 2013 640i with catless downpipes (I don’t think he had jb4 installed yet) with a passenger in my car none in his and took him) so it’s performing fine; and it doesn’t make weird noises but I’m scared this could lead to other problems down the road. (I actually think it’s burned so much oil it fried my cat because I was *only sometimes* when I would floor it I would get a burnt smell but now I sometimes get a sulfur rotten egg smell. (I don’t mind just getting a new catless exhaust) but will this damage any other components in the engine or is it just bad for the spark plugs / exhaust.
Im pretty disappointed, coming from a bmw 335i I got this car expecting great reliability. And I had done my research prior to buying the car & honestly never came across anyone complaining about the oil consumption compared to now that I’ve directly looked up is350 oil consumption there are plenty of people with he same problem.
So im pretty sure it’s the piston rings have gone bad. (They have a recall for this but I’m out of the 9 year window)
anyways just wondering if anyone knows a shop in so cal with non rape prices to replace the piston rings or if anyone has a diff solution that helped them at least stop consuming so much oil. I mean really 7 quarts is quite a lot in just 2k miles.
I mean I guess I don’t really mind adding more oil but I feel like that’s just going to lead to more things breaking down the road?
I plan on trying a thicker oil next oil change & gettin a new PCv valve and new spark plugs, maybe also a new head gasket if it’s needed and I read about some stuff I forget the name I think it was epf brand some sort of oil additive.
Oh and also I did run a complete 2 step cleaning process with ftp brand oil additive with fuel injector cleaner engine flush and a ceramic coating and I forget what else when I did the oil change.
any advice is appreciated.
**so I purchased an 06 is350 almost 2 months ago now and I’ve been loving it. It’s in pretty good shape for a 13 year old car. A few blemishes on the paint but nothing noticeable unless your right next to it and everything works; heated/ventilated seats, ac/heater, etc. It had 132k or 133k miles when I got it 136k now (did oil change at 134) I picked it up for 8700 which I thought was a good deal for the condition it’s in but
Not so sure now....
Ive got vland headlights & taillights and a duckbill spoiler which make it look so modern. (I will post pics later.)
so yea I’m loving the car but I changed my oil about 2k miles ago and yesterday I had my low oil light pop up and when I checked it, it was practically empty.
The car car still drives well. I’d even say it drives almost perfect, it’s still quick and handles good (I actually raced a buddy with a 2013 640i with catless downpipes (I don’t think he had jb4 installed yet) with a passenger in my car none in his and took him) so it’s performing fine; and it doesn’t make weird noises but I’m scared this could lead to other problems down the road. (I actually think it’s burned so much oil it fried my cat because I was *only sometimes* when I would floor it I would get a burnt smell but now I sometimes get a sulfur rotten egg smell. (I don’t mind just getting a new catless exhaust) but will this damage any other components in the engine or is it just bad for the spark plugs / exhaust.
Im pretty disappointed, coming from a bmw 335i I got this car expecting great reliability. And I had done my research prior to buying the car & honestly never came across anyone complaining about the oil consumption compared to now that I’ve directly looked up is350 oil consumption there are plenty of people with he same problem.
So im pretty sure it’s the piston rings have gone bad. (They have a recall for this but I’m out of the 9 year window)
anyways just wondering if anyone knows a shop in so cal with non rape prices to replace the piston rings or if anyone has a diff solution that helped them at least stop consuming so much oil. I mean really 7 quarts is quite a lot in just 2k miles.
I mean I guess I don’t really mind adding more oil but I feel like that’s just going to lead to more things breaking down the road?
I plan on trying a thicker oil next oil change & gettin a new PCv valve and new spark plugs, maybe also a new head gasket if it’s needed and I read about some stuff I forget the name I think it was epf brand some sort of oil additive.
Oh and also I did run a complete 2 step cleaning process with ftp brand oil additive with fuel injector cleaner engine flush and a ceramic coating and I forget what else when I did the oil change.
any advice is appreciated.
Last edited by Chewoot; 03-23-19 at 01:33 AM.
03-23-19, 09:22 AM
#2
Im pretty disappointed, coming from a bmw 335i I got this car expecting great reliability.
So you buy a 14 year old car with 133k miles on it that was probably ragged out by the previous owner since it has some cosmetic mods. You drive it for a while and race your friend, so you probably drive it harder than a woman who uses it to go to work everyday.
And after that you complain that you are disappointed with the reliability? I don't understand your logic.....
So you buy a 14 year old car with 133k miles on it that was probably ragged out by the previous owner since it has some cosmetic mods. You drive it for a while and race your friend, so you probably drive it harder than a woman who uses it to go to work everyday.
And after that you complain that you are disappointed with the reliability? I don't understand your logic.....
03-23-19, 11:12 AM
#3
It's expensive and I can't vouch for it personally but try some Yamaha Ring Free. It is on Amazon and other places. Its expensive and was originally designed for outboard engines by Yamaha and Chevron.
You can do like two back to back shock treatments (double dose) but don't go beyond that.
You might consider getting a catch can, it won't stop the oil loss but it will mitigate the downstream effects of coating the intake and reduce some of the oil in the combustion chamber and exhaust.
Keep in mind that blow by past the rings equates to pressurization of the crank case. This effectively takes those oil vapor fumes and forces them out of the breathers and into the intake where it gets burned in the combustion cycle. A catch can will reduce the later part.
Something else you might consider is a compression test right now AND IF these are good numbers IT MAY BE the valve stem seals.
Also check and see if they changed the design of the valve covers from 06 to 2011. Why, if the design changed AND the newer design has a better oil separator baffling system it would help reduce oil loss. Also verify All of the PCV plumbing is free to breath. If it builds pressure in the crank case, it will begin leaking at seals and joints.
Good luck and keep us posted.
You can do like two back to back shock treatments (double dose) but don't go beyond that.
You might consider getting a catch can, it won't stop the oil loss but it will mitigate the downstream effects of coating the intake and reduce some of the oil in the combustion chamber and exhaust.
Keep in mind that blow by past the rings equates to pressurization of the crank case. This effectively takes those oil vapor fumes and forces them out of the breathers and into the intake where it gets burned in the combustion cycle. A catch can will reduce the later part.
Something else you might consider is a compression test right now AND IF these are good numbers IT MAY BE the valve stem seals.
Also check and see if they changed the design of the valve covers from 06 to 2011. Why, if the design changed AND the newer design has a better oil separator baffling system it would help reduce oil loss. Also verify All of the PCV plumbing is free to breath. If it builds pressure in the crank case, it will begin leaking at seals and joints.
Good luck and keep us posted.
03-23-19, 02:24 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thank you 2013FSport so much for the detailed reply! Really appriciate it.
i will definitely look into the oil catch can and the pcv valve tubing.
i will definitely look into the oil catch can and the pcv valve tubing.
03-23-19, 02:37 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Im pretty disappointed, coming from a bmw 335i I got this car expecting great reliability.
So you buy a 14 year old car with 133k miles on it that was probably ragged out by the previous owner since it has some cosmetic mods. You drive it for a while and race your friend, so you probably drive it harder than a woman who uses it to go to work everyday.
And after that you complain that you are disappointed with the reliability? I don't understand your logic.....
So you buy a 14 year old car with 133k miles on it that was probably ragged out by the previous owner since it has some cosmetic mods. You drive it for a while and race your friend, so you probably drive it harder than a woman who uses it to go to work everyday.
And after that you complain that you are disappointed with the reliability? I don't understand your logic.....
Lol really mrfix
Yes i bought an older car with "high" mileage but the carfax report was solid regular oil changes, etc.
& i also have a 2001 nissan maxima with 164k miles that i dont even change the oil on time most of thr time and its been running perfectly fine its whole life, so i did kind of expect a Toyota/lexus to be a little more reliable than it is.
Yes i did race my car... All of one time.. Lol i had just got the car and i wanted to see what it was capable of, please forgive me for trying to actually use the power it comes with.
as for regular driving i average 22 mpg mostly city driving & I drive 80 on the fwy when traffic allows.
and please read better next time, the car was bone stock when i got it; I bought and added the headlights/taillights and the duckbill spoiler. Best $1000 i could have spent! (This 2006 looks like a new car now)
anyways i dont know why you came to hate so hard maybe you can contribute to helping out next time bud.
03-24-19, 03:48 AM
#6
If you push an engine hard it's gonna consume some oil....Fact.
Think you'll find ( in owners manual) engine can consume (upto) 1 Litre of oil every 1,000 Km before investigation is required.
In your currency that is 0.9 qt every 600 miles. So your 2,000 miles should consume 3 qt's of oil!
Try driving like miss Daisy for a while and see what happens on the oil front ( if you can!)
paul m.
Think you'll find ( in owners manual) engine can consume (upto) 1 Litre of oil every 1,000 Km before investigation is required.
In your currency that is 0.9 qt every 600 miles. So your 2,000 miles should consume 3 qt's of oil!
Try driving like miss Daisy for a while and see what happens on the oil front ( if you can!)
paul m.
03-24-19, 07:30 AM
#7
LOL,
OP is pretty foolish if he thinks his old BMW was somehow more reliable than his is350.
If he hates on it so much, why doesn't he go back to BMW? Or get himself another Nissan?
OP is pretty foolish if he thinks his old BMW was somehow more reliable than his is350.
If he hates on it so much, why doesn't he go back to BMW? Or get himself another Nissan?
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03-24-19, 07:34 AM
#8
Forum Administrator
iTrader: (2)
Ok folks let’s move beyond the personal commentary please. Thanks
03-24-19, 10:35 AM
#9
Uhm NO! Treating it like a tractor engine will have the opposite effect. Ports and combustion chamber will carbon up if it never sees RPM.
The mistake people make is opening them up before the oil, block, and coolant are up to operating temp whereby the clearances allow proper fit of piston to ring / piston to cylinder wall / ring to cylinder wall. This action wears an engine out years ahead of others not treated this way.
So if you want to ruin an engine:
Run it hard from a cold start.
Let it idle for an hr while you eat your cheeseburger.
Do repeated short runs whereby it never comes up to operating temperature.
Extend those oil changes....
It is the grocery getter, socker mom machines that sludge up from all the short trips. And contrary to what MOST people do, these are servere conditions that require more frequent OCI. Not the cars that are started, run 30 miles and shut off. Yes the later will have high miles and maybe have the ***** ran out of it, but it will also be spotless inside, likely not burn oil, and show less wear than the grocery getter car making 10 short trips a day.
Babying the engine is not the answer! Just saying...
The mistake people make is opening them up before the oil, block, and coolant are up to operating temp whereby the clearances allow proper fit of piston to ring / piston to cylinder wall / ring to cylinder wall. This action wears an engine out years ahead of others not treated this way.
So if you want to ruin an engine:
Run it hard from a cold start.
Let it idle for an hr while you eat your cheeseburger.
Do repeated short runs whereby it never comes up to operating temperature.
Extend those oil changes....
It is the grocery getter, socker mom machines that sludge up from all the short trips. And contrary to what MOST people do, these are servere conditions that require more frequent OCI. Not the cars that are started, run 30 miles and shut off. Yes the later will have high miles and maybe have the ***** ran out of it, but it will also be spotless inside, likely not burn oil, and show less wear than the grocery getter car making 10 short trips a day.
Babying the engine is not the answer! Just saying...
03-24-19, 12:07 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Similar issues (sort of?)
Just to help validate your experience, I have a 2007 Lexus IS 350 with 277,000 miles on it. I am the original owner. About 6 years ago, I had a failed Piston and it required major engine work. I got all new pistons. Had I done the work at a dealer mechanic, it would have been way more money then it was worth. I was able to do it for a little less than half that cost at Lexology in Redondo Beach,Ca. Still expensive but worth it at the time.
Having said that, 6 years later, I have noticed that while I used to be able to go 5,000 miles with no major oil consumption, over the past 9 months I have had twice where the low oil light popped on at just over 4,000 miles.
Having said that, 6 years later, I have noticed that while I used to be able to go 5,000 miles with no major oil consumption, over the past 9 months I have had twice where the low oil light popped on at just over 4,000 miles.
Last edited by EmceeBradC; 03-24-19 at 06:24 PM.
03-25-19, 06:23 AM
#12
reliability is based on a percentage of cars build over time. No matter how reliable a part is there will be a failure. I lost a motor and still believe these are very reliable cars. I was just one of the unlucky ones. And there is some truth in “drive it like you stole it” lol
There is a way to drive a vehicle hard without beating on it. I use to drag race and build motorcycles. Some of the fastest stock bikes I had were raced from day one. The ones that were babied seemed to make less hp on the dyno.
There is a way to drive a vehicle hard without beating on it. I use to drag race and build motorcycles. Some of the fastest stock bikes I had were raced from day one. The ones that were babied seemed to make less hp on the dyno.
03-25-19, 06:50 AM
#13
sounds like previous owner didnt take care of it enough. Mine doesnt burn any oil but its had regular oil changes with synthetic and taken care of. Definitely check the PCV as its an inexpensive item and easy to fix.
why is there a video for the 2GR-FE, the IS350 engine is 2GR-FSE.
why is there a video for the 2GR-FE, the IS350 engine is 2GR-FSE.
03-27-19, 12:27 AM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I plan to get get spark plugs replaced, pcv valve replaced and check plumbing, and get an oil catch can installed.
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