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My 2013 gs 350 has about 70k miles on it, and when I went in for a 60k maintenance( I know, I should have gotten the oil change only), they said I need to change my brake pads and turn my rotors.
Should I get the recommended brake pads or a different brand?
Should I turn my rotors? I'm weary to do it, because I know replacing rotors are super expensive.
If your budget doesn't allow for OEM and you want to save a few bucks, you can replace brakes with new Akebono pads and get Centric rotors. Both provide OEM quality at a lesser price point but these are not brands that the Lexus dealership will assist with. When the dealership does most standard services (e.g. 60k, oil change, etc.), they typically perform a multi-point inspection and check the thickness of your brake pads and rotors.
If they recommended you do so, its probably time to as brakes/rotors last anywhere between 25k-40k miles (even less if you drive more aggressive, everyday or in stop/go traffic).
LOL, I am doing the exact same thing. My new rotors and pads were just delivered. I will install them on Saturday.
My new pads are Akebono ACT1118 ProACT Ultra-Premium Ceramic Brake Pad Set (about $50 on Amazon). I have used Akebono pads in all of our vehicles for a few years.
I purchased the rotors off of eBay. I know, I know there is the potential of getting lower quality units, but that has not been my experience. My option is drilled/slotted units with a black zinc coating. This seller (R1 Concepts) has been around for a while and I have used their products on other vehicles. The kit I purchased includes the two front rotors and generic ceramic pads for $150.
Just placed my order for StopTech drilled&slotted rotors with Centric Posti-Quiet 105 ceramic pads for all 4 wheels. StopTech discontinued 2pc front rotors so I had to order 1pc blank from StopTech and have them do custom drilled/slotted to match the rears. Not a bad deal considering the dealer wants way more for OEM 2pc. I want low dust and drilled/slotted look. Was considering R1 Concepts too, but they're more expensive and someone here just complained they rust only after few months. StopTech have E-Coating on both sides of hat, outside edge, and cooling vanes to minimize rusting. My rotors will look like this, can't wait to throw them on the car.
Pads are like $35-50. Turning rotors aren't much either. Bring it any local mechanic shop, they can do brakes for much cheaper. It's very simple, you can do it yourself too if you watch a couple YT videos. I would get new front rotors too, at 70K miles you're overdue.
Do the job yourself and save some $$$. Rotors only need to be turned if you're getting the shake while braking, so you can skip that step as well and just change the pads.
The dealer told me my front brakes had 2mm left and my rear had 9mm.
i got quoted $375 to get new semi metallic brake pads and sanding of the rotors.
what do you guys think ?
Resurfacing all four rotors yourself via AutoZone or the like would probably be $80-100 and new pads for front and rear will be about $50-$100. Add in a few miscellaneous shop supplies and labor... $375 isn't a bad price to have someone else do the work imo.
Replacing pads and rotors is a pretty easy task and can be accomplished with basic hand tools. If you try to tackle it yourself be prepared to be without your car for at least a day as most places won't get you same day return service on resurfacing the rotors.
Some people want to save money on brakes and others need to be able to stop.
A friend of mine has a daily driver 2017 Nissan GT-R [stock] twin-turbo with 750 WHP with a $13,000 F&R Carbon Ceramic brake package. She just set a World Record last weekend at Houston's NHRA Royal Purple Raceway for the fastest Nismo GT-R with 'built motor' and 'built transmission' but using stock turbos (GTR-1 DCT Class) at 9.175 ET @ 148.14 mph. (See video at bottom of post)
Her car needs to be able to stop from over 180 mph!
Carbon Ceramic Big Brake Stopping Power (For up to 2,000 HP and over 200 mph)
Yep, was looking at an AMG (just for kicks and giggles) with Carbon Ceramic Brakes and learnt that rotors typically last more than 100k miles, but at that point it’s a $15-20,000 brake job... nope, not for me.
I've also read that carbon ceramic doesn’t necessarily stop better, but almost eliminates brake fade, good for the track, but unnecessary on the street. Talk about a luxury item... insanity!
Just finished brake job and thought I would share a few pics for those who have never attempted it. Of course make certain you take the appropriate safety measures regarding lifting the vechile, etc. Also make certain all bolts are tightened properly and thread lock is used on the caliper bolts.
Wheel/tire off (easy one for anybody):
Remove the two 17mm caliper bolts. They have thread lock from the factory (although my passenger side didn't look like it) and are VERY tight. There are two bolts for each caliper.
Once the caliper is freed, use something to hold it WITHOUT allowing it to be suspended by the brake line. I used large zip ties since they were handy:
The biggest issue I normally face can be the rotor removal. The driver's side came right off with no force at all. The passenger side needed WD40 and using properly fitted bolts to get it to release from the hub. BTW, once you find the correct threaded bolts it doesn't take much to get the rotor to break free. I just used my socket to turn one bolt about a 1/2 turn, than moved to the other bolt. It probably took one full rotation and POP, the rotor was free.
Pay special attention to how the pad securing spring/rod/pin are mounted. Take a picture if need be. Pull the clip, remove the long pin/rod and the flat spring falls out. Wiggle the pads and/or pry a little to remove the caliper piston tension. The pads should pull out the top of the caliper easily. You may need to compress the pistons a little to install the new (ie., thicker) pads.
Here they are after about a ten mile test drive:
Last edited by DallasDave; 03-23-19 at 11:54 AM.
Reason: spelling error
My 2013 gs 350 has about 70k miles on it, and when I went in for a 60k maintenance( I know, I should have gotten the oil change only), they said I need to change my brake pads and turn my rotors.
Should I get the recommended brake pads or a different brand?
Should I turn my rotors? I'm weary to do it, because I know replacing rotors are super expensive.
I would do at least the fronts using OE pads and have the rotors turned. The rears don't wear as quickly as the fronts, but there's nothing wrong with doing the rears too so you don't have to deal with it later.
03-21-19, 12:56 PM
help with brakes and rotors
