Do you have to drop the subframe to change engine/motor mount on IS250 with MTM?
12-09-18, 07:48 AM
#1
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Do you have to drop the subframe to change engine/motor mount on IS250 with MTM?
With 138000 miles on my IS250 manual, I'm pretty sure the mounts are shot (can feel the motor moving sometimes when the engine is revved, occasional difficulty downshifting to 2nd, etc).
Does the subframe need to be lowered in order to replace the mounts? I replace mounts on several other FWD cars, and was able to do it by placing a block of wood under the oil pan and lifting the engine just enough to remove the mount, but not sure it's possible on the Is250 platform.
Does the subframe need to be lowered in order to replace the mounts? I replace mounts on several other FWD cars, and was able to do it by placing a block of wood under the oil pan and lifting the engine just enough to remove the mount, but not sure it's possible on the Is250 platform.
12-11-18, 12:36 PM
#3
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When you go from 3rd to 2nd, occasionally, it feels like the car is “locked” out of gear. No grinds, like synchros, it’s just as if 2nd gear is not in that spot anymore. I sometimes have to move the gearshift towards the passenger side to get it to drop in gear. Based on prior experience with cars that have shift linkages (I can’t for the life of me understand why a front engine RWD car would have a linkage instead of direct connection to the tranny), and the fact that I can sometimes feel the motor torquing when you rev at stand still, I think it’s related to bad mounts.
12-12-18, 02:31 PM
#4
So you can confirm it is a gating issue versus a synchromesh issue internal; yes.
If related to syncros, one can overcome this by rev matching while an external factor like a binding shifter or missing the 2nd gear gate would be external issues.
All engines move some. Perhaps pop the hood and power brake it in 1st and reverse while taking a video showing how much the engine moves. Make sense?
It sorta takes 3 feet but most can do it with just two.
If related to syncros, one can overcome this by rev matching while an external factor like a binding shifter or missing the 2nd gear gate would be external issues.
All engines move some. Perhaps pop the hood and power brake it in 1st and reverse while taking a video showing how much the engine moves. Make sense?
It sorta takes 3 feet but most can do it with just two.
12-13-18, 05:30 AM
#5
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Yeah, I'm familiar with the brake/torque test to check for motor movement. As far as rev matching, I've road raced an MR2 since '04, and I've developed a habit of almost religiously rev matching/heal-toe on downshifts.
I know I have a syncho problem with 5th gear, as it grinds most times, even on rev match, but the 2nd gear is a little different.
As a side note, I've also replaced all the bushing on the shift linkage, but the problem is still there.
I know I have a syncho problem with 5th gear, as it grinds most times, even on rev match, but the 2nd gear is a little different.
As a side note, I've also replaced all the bushing on the shift linkage, but the problem is still there.
12-13-18, 01:12 PM
#6
Are you planning to do one mount at a time OR do them all at once? I'd assume the easiest route (to avoid dropping the subframe) will be to remove one mount at a time by lifting from underneath OR lifting from above (engine hoist).
Anyone actually replaced motor mounts on a 2IS care to comment here?
Anyone actually replaced motor mounts on a 2IS care to comment here?
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12-24-18, 10:21 AM
#8
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Still haven't gotten around to doing this yet, but the plan is to try to lift the motor enough to get motor above subframe. I thought I read somewhere that there is some part of the block that prevents the motor from being raised high enough, but I forgot where I saw that, and whether it applies to 350 or 250. Next resort will be to remove the bracket with the mount. I'll report back once I get to it. Unless someone who's actually done this on a 2IS can confirm.
12-28-18, 05:25 PM
#10
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No need to remove the subframe . Just went thru this. I usually Remove the front end, all attachment points: fuel lines, ground, axles, harness from chasis, ecu, crossmember, mounts, and the whole this comes out forward. Piece of cake. Walk in the park with a nice october breeze. If you need info of any kind PM me . I own a shop Out here in Houston, TX
03-12-19, 08:47 AM
#11
I'm about to tackle this engine mount replacement on my wife's 2007 IS 250 manual transmission. I've done few other motor mounts replacements (Acura MDX and Lexus LS400) and both required only minor or no disconnections and was able to raise the engine via oil pan without breaking anything to access the mounts.
I know the safest is to disconnect lot of things from the engine as kosorio79 suggests but is that necessary? Since it's a 12 year old car, there's also of risk of breaking parts for anything that gets removed which I like to avoid.
Any follow up on what needs to be disconnected? Any other advice before I start? Thanks.
I know the safest is to disconnect lot of things from the engine as kosorio79 suggests but is that necessary? Since it's a 12 year old car, there's also of risk of breaking parts for anything that gets removed which I like to avoid.
Any follow up on what needs to be disconnected? Any other advice before I start? Thanks.
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