LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006) Discussion topics related to the flagship Lexus LS430

2003 Replace Exhaust Manifold Instructions - Please Post

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Old 12-04-18, 08:21 PM
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Arcturus
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Default 2003 Replace Exhaust Manifold Instructions - Please Post

Hello,

Does someone here have instructions from the factory service manual on how to replace the exhaust manifolds for a 2003 LS430?

Thanks!
Old 12-04-18, 09:40 PM
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Old 12-08-18, 11:46 AM
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Hey thanks. Didn't know they had the whole manual online.

Only thing is it shows removal of the exhaust manifolds with the engine out of the car. I've heard there is a way to do it without removing the engine.

Anyone have a step-by-step for this?
Old 12-08-18, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Arcturus
Hey thanks. Didn't know they had the whole manual online.

Only thing is it shows removal of the exhaust manifolds with the engine out of the car. I've heard there is a way to do it without removing the engine.

Anyone have a step-by-step for this?
Found this guide from PPE Engineering:

http://www.ppeengineering.com/docume...ll%20guide.pdf

Seems like it's for a GS430 though. Any reason why it wouldn't be the same procedure on an LS? PPE engineering says the headers are for LS430 as well.

Old 12-08-18, 03:28 PM
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That procedure will work for the LS430. If you can get your hands on a factory service manual it will make the process a little easier as it goes much more in depth with each step (removing catalysts, removing steering shaft, etc.). Having spent a lot of time underneath my LS lately I know it can be done without removing the heads, as the manual states, but it is a pretty tight fit between the manifolds and the strut towers. You'll need a cherry picker to lift and support the engine while the mounts are removed. If you look at my recent oil pan thread you'll see some pics of the area you'll be working in.
Old 12-09-18, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 911LE
That procedure will work for the LS430. If you can get your hands on a factory service manual it will make the process a little easier as it goes much more in depth with each step (removing catalysts, removing steering shaft, etc.). Having spent a lot of time underneath my LS lately I know it can be done without removing the heads, as the manual states, but it is a pretty tight fit between the manifolds and the strut towers. You'll need a cherry picker to lift and support the engine while the mounts are removed. If you look at my recent oil pan thread you'll see some pics of the area you'll be working in.
Do you know where I should look in the manual that would give me a good idea? All I see so far is pulling the whole engine to access them.

Do you think a lift support bar and a car lift would make it easier? There's a place in town close to here where you can rent time on a lift.
Before jobs like this I want to have a good plan so the car doesn't sit on the stands for long periods of time while I figure out what to do.
Old 12-09-18, 10:21 AM
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A lift would make it a little easier if you don't like lying on your back for extended periods of time. It is certainly not necessary. You could use drive on ramps as you won't need to remove the wheels or a jack and stands. A support bar like I used should work but you may still need to lift the engine higher to pull the motor mounts and manifolds out. I actually lifted my engine slightly before I installed the support bar. A jack with a large board on the oil pan can be used.

I would follow the procedure you posted earlier and supplement it with the service manual at every step. For example, the procedure shown says "remove catalysts". Look that up in the manual and it will show the steps involved, parts that need to be removed, parts that need to be replaced (4 new gaskets for the catalysts), and the torque specs for reassembly. The only thing it won't tell you is tool sizes and how to wield them. I know from experience that removing the catalysts is quite simple if you use a 1/2" drive ratchet, 12" extension, and a 14mm deep socket. Any wrenching experience you have will make this easier. I know the manual says to remove the engine or heads to remove the manifolds but it definitely isn't necessary. There will be plenty of room once the mounts and exhaust are out of the way. Out of curiosity why are you removing your manifolds?
Old 12-09-18, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 911LE
A lift would make it a little easier if you don't like lying on your back for extended periods of time. It is certainly not necessary. You could use drive on ramps as you won't need to remove the wheels or a jack and stands. A support bar like I used should work but you may still need to lift the engine higher to pull the motor mounts and manifolds out. I actually lifted my engine slightly before I installed the support bar. A jack with a large board on the oil pan can be used.

I would follow the procedure you posted earlier and supplement it with the service manual at every step. For example, the procedure shown says "remove catalysts". Look that up in the manual and it will show the steps involved, parts that need to be removed, parts that need to be replaced (4 new gaskets for the catalysts), and the torque specs for reassembly. The only thing it won't tell you is tool sizes and how to wield them. I know from experience that removing the catalysts is quite simple if you use a 1/2" drive ratchet, 12" extension, and a 14mm deep socket. Any wrenching experience you have will make this easier. I know the manual says to remove the engine or heads to remove the manifolds but it definitely isn't necessary. There will be plenty of room once the mounts and exhaust are out of the way. Out of curiosity why are you removing your manifolds?
Thanks for the helpful advice. I do have some wrenching experience and have a fairly good set of sockets and extensions. I have done a timing belt job, valve cover, spark plugs and intake manifold remove and replace on this car so I'm starting to get more comfortable. Don't have a support bar and am a little afraid to jack on the oil pan. Just wondering how much I need to raise the engine up and what sort of tooling I need to buy rent before the job starts.

This car has a ticking sound and it seems to be coming from around the exhaust manifold area. There are no driveability problems and no engine trouble codes and I need to narrow it down further, but I suspect a cracked manifold. I am told it is a relatively common problem on this car. I'm thinking PPE headers as a replacement since they are made of stainless (I living in a very salty environment) and since the factory ones are also pretty expensive.
Old 12-09-18, 12:42 PM
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Hey I can help you out I installed my ppe headers with the motor in the car you are going to want a torch and about 8-15 hours. All you need is a lift man and take your time heat up each stud or there gonna break off. The exhaust has to come out you need to start at the rear muffs and work your way up then tie the steering wheel in place with the seat belt and then unhook the lower steering shaft. Then take the manifolds off.

Last edited by 05ls430518; 12-09-18 at 12:45 PM.
Old 12-09-18, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 05ls430518
Hey I can help you out I installed my ppe headers with the motor in the car you are going to want a torch and about 8-15 hours. All you need is a lift man and take your time heat up each stud or there gonna break off. The exhaust has to come out you need to start at the rear muffs and work your way up then tie the steering wheel in place with the seat belt and then unhook the lower steering shaft. Then take the manifolds off.
What was the hardest part about the replacement? How much did you have to pick the motor up to clear the manifolds? Did you have any broken studs? I heard you have to remove the power steering pump and AC compressor did you need to do this?
Old 12-09-18, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcturus
What was the hardest part about the replacement? How much did you have to pick the motor up to clear the manifolds? Did you have any broken studs? I heard you have to remove the power steering pump and AC compressor did you need to do this?
Nope you literally just have to remove the exhaust starting from the rear, then unbolt the lower steering shaft to remove manifolds no broken studds because I heated them up and the hardest part was the top bolts on both sides pretty hard to get to. Also no need to jack the motor up literally put her on a lift grab a torch and sockets and go to town lol

Last edited by 05ls430518; 12-09-18 at 07:09 PM.
Old 12-09-18, 04:31 PM
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You won't need a torch if you start spraying the exhaust bolts now with penetrating lubricant.
Old 12-09-18, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 911LE
You won't need a torch if you start spraying the exhaust bolts now with penetrating lubricant.
If his manifolds have holes or cracks from rust I would just use a torch, you snap a studd off in there it is going to cause a major headache but pb blaster is amazing though what PL do you use?
Old 12-09-18, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 05ls430518
If his manifolds have holes or cracks from rust I would just use a torch, you snap a studd off in there it is going to cause a major headache but pb blaster is amazing though what PL do you use?
Is there really enough space to pull out the manifolds without lifting the car? I was under the impression that they wouldn't fit through the space.

How do you access the bolts - directly from below or do you have to use long socket extensions to access them from the back of the engine?

Sorry for many questions just want to make sure I understand and don't waste a lot of time. Do you have photos by any chance?
Old 12-10-18, 01:11 PM
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You should have plenty of room from underneath. You'll need a combination of extensions and a good swivel. I doubt you'll need to pull the entire exhaust back to the mufflers as the catalysts come out pretty easy and will leave you lots of room.


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