Checking for alternator or Battery
#1
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Checking for alternator or Battery
I recently replaced my battery as it was leaking already and had a hard time during cold starts to turn on my car. I checked voltage with the off and battery was still good with specs but after turning it on I checked voltage with the new battery and still read the same thing as my old one with a total of 13.3 to 13.5 volts. What do you guys usually see as a norm when you check for the alternator and battery
#2
Lead Lap
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Dang funny thing. I'm checking voltage on my new 3 day or so battery. I'm getting 14.2 volts idle no load cold engine. I'm curious what everyone is seeing. Now car is @ operating temp idle no load I'm getting 13.75V.
I was getting like 13.5v with load before on a bad battery. Idle without load it was 13.2V.
With headlights, fog lights, and A/C on.
I was getting like 13.5v with load before on a bad battery. Idle without load it was 13.2V.
With headlights, fog lights, and A/C on.
Last edited by MikeFig82; 10-18-18 at 05:41 AM.
#3
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I'm getting 13.5v with a load. Gonna try without a load later today but if it's near 13.7 or 13.8 the alternator is still good right? Normally I like seeing 14 but I dont think I'll get near with the new battery could be my alt is slowly going.
#4
Lead Lap
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INSPECT CHARGING CIRCUIT WITHOUT LOAD
HINT:
If a battery/alternator tester is available, connect the tester to
the charging circuit as per manufacturer’s instructions.
- (a) If a tester is not available, connect a voltmeter to the charging circuit as follows.
- (1) Disconnect the wire from terminal B of the alternator, and connect it to the negative (−) tester probe of the ammeter.
- (2) Connect the positive (+) tester probe of the ammeter to terminal B of the alternator.
- (3) Connect the positive (+) tester probe of the voltmeter to terminal B of the alternator.
- (4) Ground the negative (−) tester probe of the voltmeter.
- (b) Check the charging circuit as follows.
- (1) With the engine running from idling to 2,000 rpm, check the reading on the ammeter and voltmeter.
Standard voltage: 13.2 − 14.8 V
INSPECT CHARGING CIRCUIT WITH LOAD
- (a) With the engine running at 2,000 rpm, turn on the high beam headlights and place the heater blower switch at ”HI”.
- (b) Check the reading on the ammeter.
#5
Lead Lap
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"5 Years ago, when I first purchased my 01 LS430 it had 98,000 miles at the time. A year or so later I decided to purchase a battery. I did not know how old it was with certainty, and here in Florida, it's always a good idea to replace a battery every 3 years as that's about the life of them. Many claim they get double that life span, but I don't like being a hero. I measured my Alternator output at that time after installing the battery, and it read 13.4 volts at the battery fully warmed up. Since then, I have never once had a problem but did investigate with a multimeter to find the following results. When the car starts up cold in the morning, the output is around 14.1-14.2. Gradually, as it warms up and I watch it over 10 minutes or so, it will drop to 13.6 or so. . I check the battery at the terminals with the car off and it usually reads 13+ after I shut the car down. In the morning when cold at the battery may read 12.5-12.6. I was told by a tech, that as the battery reaches it's peak charge, the alternator puts out less voltage, In addition, when I park my car for a few days, I place a CTEK 3300 charger on it, and it usually goes to green within a few hours which tells me it's close to fully charged. I don't mind getting a new alternator, but everything seems to show my battery is in healthy condition and I've never had a problem starting the car. I'm not convinced that our alternators should be constantly showing over 14 volts even over a long period of time driving."
Last edited by MikeFig82; 10-18-18 at 12:14 PM.
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