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Can someone please educate me what the numbers, letters, rectangular and the circle mean in the diagram below, the three red circle locations?
Thank you!
I haven't looked at a lot of Yoda diagrams as I've never had a problem.
That said someone more knowledgeable may correct me.
1) on your circled B2+ area. The loan # "2" is conductor #2 (pin 2) of the fuse labeled "Rad No 2.". The down arrow says it goes to a plug. I *think* the 1 in the bubble implies the connector stays on the same page, within the same circuit. For example it could display 3R. Meaning go look for connector designated 3R.
2) Pin #25 of connector AP1. Go find, connector AP1.
I haven't looked at a lot of Yoda diagrams as I've never had a problem.
That said someone more knowledgeable may correct me.
1) on your circled B2+ area. The loan # "2" is conductor #2 (pin 2) of the fuse labeled "Rad No 2.". The down arrow says it goes to a plug. I *think* the 1 in the bubble implies the connector stays on the same page, within the same circuit. For example it could display 3R. Meaning go look for connector designated 3R.
2) Pin #25 of connector AP1. Go find, connector AP1.
3) Pin #3, of Path A on +B2 circuit.
What are you trying to resolve?
My RAD No.2 fuse keep blowing. There is a short somewhere along the wire. Thanks 2013FSport for your explaination!
Now that I need to look for the connector (AP1) then hopefully I see the short there. Does anyone know where the AP1 connector is?
My RAD No.2 fuse keep blowing. There is a short somewhere along the wire. Thanks 2013FSport for your explaination!
Now that I need to look for the connector (AP1) then hopefully I see the short there. Does anyone know where the AP1 connector is?
I'm pretty sure the only way you find it is by looking online at the yoda site and following the wires there. Specifically finding the connector color and how many conductors it has, what it connects too. All that.
I'm pretty sure the only way you find it is by looking online at the yoda site and following the wires there. Specifically finding the connector color and how many conductors it has, what it connects too. All that.
Make sense?
I searched but could not find a yoda site out there
I just got the audio system diagram for my car (is250 2008). I have very litle knowledge about electrical diagram. trying to digest some of the information. According to the diagram, the RAD No. 2 fuse is the power source to the amplifier device (I am not so sure). But I will remove the AMP connectors (in the trunk) and insert a new fuse tomorrow to confirm if it stays on (not blow).
Bingo...^^ TIS... techinfo.toyoyta.com yoda, lexus, scion....
Price went up a bit tho...
One tip for troubleshooting fuse poppers is a test lamp across the fuse, fuse removed. When lit that means you have a load or current draw. So go and unplug everything down stream on that circuit until the light goes out.
In the ideal world the the devices fully turn off and draw no current. That said you may need something like an 1156 incandescent bulb that draws more current than a test lamp.
Let me know if you have an interest in this. I'll do what I can.
I just got the audio system diagram for my car (is250 2008). I have very litle knowledge about electrical diagram. trying to digest some of the information. According to the diagram, the RAD No. 2 fuse is the power source to the amplifier device (I am not so sure). But I will remove the AMP connectors (in the trunk) and insert a new fuse tomorrow to confirm if it stays on (not blow).
Use a test lamp in place of fuse. Much cheaper!
See above! But you are on the right path. Unplug stuff. Watch the brightness of test lamp. It should go out. i.e tests done w ignition on and test lamp inserted where the fuse goes.
Use a test lamp in place of fuse. Much cheaper!
See above! But you are on the right path. Unplug stuff. Watch the brightness of test lamp. It should go out. i.e tests done w ignition on and test lamp inserted where the fuse goes.
I would guess the stereo does not work on this??
Did you look at the amp, has it been flooded w h2o?
i.e. corrosion, high water marks, rust? Its in the trunk on the right side under a plastic cover.
I would guess the stereo does not work on this??
Did you look at the amp, has it been flooded w h2o?
i.e. corrosion, high water marks, rust? Its in the trunk on the right side under a plastic cover.
You are correct! Everything work for audio system except for no sound (no fuse on Rad No. 2 )
I am still at work. I will look at it later today when I get home.
It has been raining a lot in the East coast lately. May be that is the reasons. I will let everyone know how it goes
Using a test light (2013FSport idea) to connect at the two ends of the fuse location, I was able to verify that the amp was causing the current to drain from the battery even with my car's key off. I removed the and inspected the amp visually and saw no water mark or sign of rusty. A little bit dirty at the bottom of the car floor where the amp seat, however it is acceptable I think.
Unpluged this connector would stop the electric current from the RAD NO. 2 fuses location:
I did not see anything that relates to water issue:
It has been raining a lot lately and may be moisture got inside the trunk causing the amp to short somewhere internally. I will open the amp cover and let it dry (in house) for several days and doing the test light again.
09-17-18, 09:37 AM
explain audio diagram connectors?
