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Lexus uses high quality paint and finishing materials in it's vehicles such that a.20 year old paint finish appears quite new if reasonably cared for.
However, over time we acquire minor chips, scratches and abrasions requiring attention.
Oftentimes a body shop simply cannot charge enough to justify a small finish repair....so performing the work yourself presents an option.
I canvassed online touch up paint reaources and was disappointed in what I was finding...poor quality, uninformed sales people (or online only)
Then, after almost giving up, I came across AUTOMOTIVE TOUCH-UP who seemed responsive and were able to articulate what made their complete line of finishing products come off as the only logical conclusion...
They were detail.oriented to insure I received the correct sandable primer, basecoat body color, basecoat cladding colors and clearcoat for my Jade Pearl Silver 1999 LS400...
This first posting presents Lexus Technical Service Information Bulletins regarding factory body and cladding color codes for LS400 along with images of Automotive Touch up products to be used for this project.
Subsequest postings will present application of products to affected areas.
Spray can offers high quality spraying nozzle.
Body basecoat color code 6P7
Cladding Basecoat labeled with OEM color code.
Correct clearcoat
Sandable Primer depicted with Full Grip Spray Triggee
I'll be interested in seeing the color match. I have the same color car, but my cladding is slightly different, UCAA5. I went to an auto paint store and had them mix two batches of my cladding color. They both came out different and neither matched the car. When I had my rear bumper painted at an auto body shop, they said they had to spend a lot of time on the color matching. So if your cladding color matches, I'll be impressed.
I'll be interested in seeing the color match. I have the same color car, but my cladding is slightly different, UCAA5. I went to an auto paint store and had them mix two batches of my cladding color. They both came out different and neither matched the car. When I had my rear bumper painted at an auto body shop, they said they had to spend a lot of time on the color matching. So if your cladding color matches, I'll be impressed.
What year is your LS400 ?
Automotive Touch-up spent a lot of time sorting out the color cladding questionm...
According to Lexus information apparently 1999 LS400 6P7 color code was matched to ICAA9 cladding color.
Will present results soon...temperatures are record cold in Chicago for April and May so unable to paint.
I've seen the ads on my car and driver magazine for this automotive touch up paints for years.
hope this turns out great, I've had decent results using a local paint supply store in the past but spray cans have their limits - it's all in the prep as with any body work.
how big of a repair job are you tackling?
I've also used touch up paints from lexus directly, works well for small rock chips!
I've seen the ads on my car and driver magazine for this automotive touch up paints for years.
hope this turns out great, I've had decent results using a local paint supply store in the past but spray cans have their limits - it's all in the prep as with any body work.
how big of a repair job are you tackling?
I've also used touch up paints from lexus directly, works well for small rock chips!
What Country offers Dealer Toyota/Lexus touch-up paint??
Paint ? My opinion..... The best paints are supposed to be urethane and 2 part ie the paint and the hardener, they last the longest. No one would have ever used a 1 part paint in years past. Yet most body shops now do that exact thing, its called crap paint in my opinion "water borne" it is not a 2 part paint, and if not dried fully and then top coated with a clear the first day it sees freezing weather you get some nice blisters, been there done that.
So if the paint does not have a hardener then it is not very chemical proof, like in having resistance to gasoline etc. On youtube there are video's of people using 1 part
rustoleum to paint cars, and some people laugh, in my opinion its a way better paint than any water color paint, especially if it had a urethane clear over it.
For touch up paint I have gone to a local auto body paint place and they have matched pretty good to the code, its usually an acrylic enamel and for small spots no hardener is used.
Paint ? My opinion..... The best paints are supposed to be urethane and 2 part ie the paint and the hardener, they last the longest. No one would have ever used a 1 part paint in years past. Yet most body shops now do that exact thing, its called crap paint in my opinion "water borne" it is not a 2 part paint, and if not dried fully and then top coated with a clear the first day it sees freezing weather you get some nice blisters, been there done that.
So if the paint does not have a hardener then it is not very chemical proof, like in having resistance to gasoline etc. On youtube there are video's of people using 1 part
rustoleum to paint cars, and some people laugh, in my opinion its a way better paint than any water color paint, especially if it had a urethane clear over it.
For touch up paint I have gone to a local auto body paint place and they have matched pretty good to the code, its usually an acrylic enamel and for small spots no hardener is used.
No question Toyota used top shalf paint on the LS400.
This posting will present color and, or clearcoat repairs on minor chips and abrasions on body, bumper and cladding....not painting an entire door here...
Was looking for best quality in spray can category....and I really like what I see thus far
Many of us have encountered the aftermath of fingernail brush touch up paint..
I have a 98. The cladding is a different color than the 99. One problem with the spray cans is consistent flow. It works ok if you're spraying level, but when you turn the can up or down you can get sputtering. You'd probably get better results with a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight and a compressor. Also, that is a 1k clear, which requires sanding and buffing. It also won't be as strong as a 2k clear.
I have a 98. The cladding is a different color than the 99. One problem with the spray cans is consistent flow. It works ok if you're spraying level, but when you turn the can up or down you can get sputtering. You'd probably get better results with a cheap spray gun from Harbor Freight and a compressor. Also, that is a 1k clear, which requires sanding and buffing. It also won't be as strong as a 2k clear.
This is excellent feedback...
AutomotiveTouchup claims a proprietary (more expensive) nozzle, but will forward your comments.for response from manufacturer.
Can you elaborate on differences between 1k and 2k clear...
AutomotiveTouchup claims a proprietary (more expensive) nozzle, but will forward your comments.for response from manufacturer.
Can you elaborate on differences between 1k and 2k clear...
2k clear is two components mixed together, the second being an activated hardener. It basically gives a harder, glossier finish that lasts longer. It's also more dangerous to inhale, so it requires a respirator rated for 2k paints. This is a popular one out of a can: http://www.spraymax.com/en/products/...2k-clear-coat/
Visited Eastwood store in Chicago (Alsip) for body shop supplies and input on best approach for prep and painting the various nicks on 1999 LS400.
Some very experienced staff who understand their product line.
Overall the paint is in excellent shape except for front bumper area that resides in wheel well and a few body nicks.
AUTOMOTIVE TOUCH-UP provided several spray cans of body, cladding /lower bumper paint and primer.
The Eastwood paint tecnician implored me not to turn a small (1/8") nick into a bigger project, by spot touching the nicks with rust encapsulant (after cleaning nicks (i used side cutter blade), then after sandable primer followed by body paint and clear.
Sprayed rust encapsulant into a receptacle and used an "EZ DABBER BY EZ MIX" to apply product.
The fibreglass fibre tip is tiny and ideal for product application into tiny nicks.
Q-Tips are a poor way to apply paint as the cotton absorbs the paint and is a sloppy applicator.
So today cleaned out the rusty nicks, applied grease remover and then applied rust encapsulant.
A few images of rear passenger door leading and trailing edges, dog leg and front fender before and after.
Leading edge of rear door depicting minor nicks..however with some surface rust
Used box cutter to scrape away rust within the nick.. Worked well, and without disturbing the perimeter. Used magnifying visor to better view the work area.
After cleaning. .
Dog leg nicks
Nick on upper fender, after cleaning.
AUTOMOTIVE TOUCH-UP grease/wax removing wipes....
And Eastwood grease remover...does an excellent job of removing tar specs so bought a can.
Cleaan surface is imperative.
EZ DABBER for controlled application of primer and paint...
Sprayed rust encapsulant into a receptacle., then used .EZ DABBER to apply rust encapsulant..
Leading edge of rear door after application of rust encapsulant... Will apply sandable primer as next step..and access when time for sanding...
The grille and chrome surround are in excellent comdition.
The grille color is uninspiring and am considering painting to match body or lower cladding color.
The body color Jade Pearl Silver and cladding is grey/green.
As LS400's employ two tone paint scheme, using lower cladding paint, which tends to be darker than body color, would not present as much of a departure or present aka AMG Mercedes monochromatic look of the 80's..
While the upper front bumper color is body color, the lower front bumper is same as side cladding...and is more pronounced from the front.
In facr the lower cover has ventilation grilles.
Not planning to paint the chrome if using cladding paint for grille, however if going monochromatic, then painting chrome would make more sense.
Anyone paint their grille with body or cladding paint?
I'll be interested in seeing the color match. I have the same color car, but my cladding is slightly different, UCAA5. I went to an auto paint store and had them mix two batches of my cladding color. They both came out different and neither matched the car. When I had my rear bumper painted at an auto body shop, they said they had to spend a lot of time on the color matching. So if your cladding color matches, I'll be impressed.
There are apparently three colors used for our front bumpers... (at least on mine); Upper half of bumper is body color, lower half is cladding color, and the third is a darker variant used where the bumper comprises the front inner fende/tire well lip.
This thin strip of paint more closely matches the black fender well trim , .however was not as durable thus has worn awaay on both sides.
Lexus uses a third paint color...not as durable as body and bumper/cladding paint. Surface preparation is key to professional results....
After extensive sanding, priming and repriming, the finishing coat is applied. This image does not depict clear coat. Two-part clear coat produces harder finish.
Color is perfect match for thin strip of bumber inside fender well. Not sure how other LS400'S color code in this area...
AUTOMOTIVE TOUCH-UP PAINT offers plastic barrier film with pressure sensitive tape for masking
Masking tape and film barrier works well. Had to redo this area several times....
Nice write up. 2/3 of my car is painted with mostly Automotive Touchup spray paint cans. It's all in the prep work. You can get some pretty decent results from it. However, the Silver Jade Pearl paint is very very very hard to match so your shades will be slightly off.
05-10-18, 09:50 PM
Ls400 touch up paint
