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Our dealer told us that our 2013 RX 350 with 51k miles needs a full brake job (pads and rotors, front and back). They quoted us $1150 for the job.
Since this is a good chunk of cash, I am trying to figure out if we can save some money going somewhere else or we should just stick with the dealer.
I talked to an independent mechanic, and he said he can do the job for $340 if I provide the parts.
Trying to figure out right now how much the parts would run me. Can someone give me a list of all the parts I need to buy so that I can price it out fully? I know that I will need the rotors and pads, but is there anything else I need to buy? Are there any nuts and bolts required also that I need to purchase? What about the calipers, do I need to buy those too? Does the Lexus quote above include the calipers as well? Or do I just need to buy the calipers glide pins?
We on the net will not be able to tell what is and what is not included in what the dealer quoted you. You can ask for a itemized part and labor. From there you can get part number and do your search.
I would suggest that you visit on line parts from Lexus of South Atlanta.
Personally I would not suggest any aftermarket parts.
We on the net will not be able to tell what is and what is not included in what the dealer quoted you. You can ask for a itemized part and labor. From there you can get part number and do your search.
I would suggest that you visit on line parts from Lexus of South Atlanta.
Personally I would not suggest any aftermarket parts.
Salim
Thanks Salim. I was just wondering if dealers usually replace calipers as part of a rotor/pad replacement.
If anybody can give me the list of parts usually required for a complete brake job, that would be highly appreciated.
Don't know if you would need anything more than rotors and pads. The cost of these on Lexus parts World is $270. They give us a 10% discount use cl5 so total would be $243. Sure shipping not included. You might want to try your local Toyota dealer.
There is rarely a reason to replace the rotors unless they are gouged or worn below the allowable thickness, unlikely with your mileage. Pads all around should do it.
They wouldn't replace calipers unless there was some specifically wrong with them, they're not wear items.
Quality aftermarket parts are fine.
There is rarely a reason to replace the rotors unless they are gouged or worn below the allowable thickness, unlikely with your mileage. Pads all around should do it.
They wouldn't replace calipers unless there was some specifically wrong with them, they're not wear items.
Quality aftermarket parts are fine.
Jonas
^^^^^what he said and I will add warped rotors. I did front pad only on my 2010. Rears never touched to date, and yes i have check they work fine (not seized).
There is rarely a reason to replace the rotors unless they are gouged or worn below the allowable thickness, unlikely with your mileage. Pads all around should do it.
They wouldn't replace calipers unless there was some specifically wrong with them, they're not wear items.
Quality aftermarket parts are fine.
Jonas
Forgot to mention, we do have some brake judder at high speed, so I suspect that the front rotors at the very least need replacement. May as well do the back rotors while as well.
You should not have to replace your calipers. I am sure the dealer quote was to replace pads, rotors and bleed the brakes. Any mechanic should clean and re-grease the glide pins as part of the job. When I did my brakes at 40,000 miles the front rotors were very rusted so that chunks were falling off. I recommend your local mechanic inspect the car because, as said above, you may not need rear rotors, maybe only fronts based on your shudder complaint.
I found the Raybestos brake components from Rock Auto to be as good as OEM, especially the Rust Prevention or Advanced Technology rotors from Raybestos both of which had an anti-rust coating, unlike the OEM rotors. 2 years ago I put the Advanced Technology ones on my car (as the rust prevention ones were not on the market at that time) along with the Raybestos Enhanced Hybrid Technology Element 3 brake pads. They have been excellent so far and have about 12,000 miles on them. Quiet, low dust, stop quickly.
If you want OEM pads, get the Akebono brand or Advics.
To me, it sounds a little expensive especially if it's in USD$. Although I am not sure what the differences are like from region to region.
A full brake job locally here is $837+tax CAD. That's about $677USD.
I find the local Lexus dealer here to be reasonable on their costs compared to others.
The way this works is a shop is supposed to give the customer a pre-work estimate. Each time is listed and then overall estimated price [parts, tax, labor, disposal fees] is itemized. This is best educated guess at its inception. After the customer authorizes work the mechanic goes in and can determine more work is needed and the establishment then contacts the owner for further approval. At times the actual work needed can be less than the first estimate, and this case no further approval is needed and the final invoice reflects the work done.
OP is trying to figure out what his alternatives are and without knowing what he is being charged for, we (at least I ) can not suggest anything other than answering his question is general terms. Example: Although we can assume that caliper does not need replacement. But the quick look by the dealer may include replacement.
DIY 30-45% of the dealer for identical work, Indi 50-75% of the dealer invoice. The numbers can shift based on parts (cheaper alternative).
Brake job at Indy is typically turn rotors, put in new pads, flush out fluid(if customer asks).
Salim
[For this discussion, lets ignore the incentive the shop may have to do un-necessary work]
Forgot to mention, we do have some brake judder at high speed, so I suspect that the front rotors at the very least need replacement. May as well do the back rotors while as well.
I definitely do not agree that you should do the rear rotors "as well". I have never had to turn or replace a rear rotor in all my driving days. I am 65.
Thanks for your responses guys. Will take the wheels off on the weekend and measure the rotors/pads myself.
Does anybody have the minimum thickness specs handy by any chance? Pretty sure the front rotor is done, but I agree rear rotor shouldn't be worn out yet.
Thanks for your responses guys. Will take the wheels off on the weekend and measure the rotors/pads myself.
Does anybody have the minimum thickness specs handy by any chance? Pretty sure the front rotor is done, but I agree rear rotor shouldn't be worn out yet.
Pads have a slit cut in the middle. You can take the pad out to see or from the side if you can see that the wear has flattened the pad then the are worn out.
The pair of pads should wear down equally. If you see one side more worn out then there is a problem with the caliper.
Pads have a slit cut in the middle. You can take the pad out to see or from the side if you can see that the wear has flattened the pad then the are worn out.
The pair of pads should wear down equally. If you see one side more worn out then there is a problem with the caliper.
Salim
This is true. Most new pads have squeal tabs on them also. I have never figured out why pads that come from the factory do not have the tabs. The Lexus pads I have used in the past come with them. The pads look identical to the OEM but with squeal tabs. I think both the side cut and the tab indicates 2/32" left on the pad.
I just bought a set of Akebono pads and they have the squeal tabs also.
Ok, so I took off the tires today and took a closer look. The brake pads front and rear are definitely done, they only have like 1-2 mm left each.
The rotors now I tried to measure, it's quite difficult since I only have a cheap regular caliper, so I tried to use the 2 coin method. But especially the rear rotors have some shielding around them which make them hard to access. Nevertheless, I measured the front rotors at 28.75 mm and the rear at 10.4 mm. I realize theses seem to be the measurements of almost new rotors, so not sure if I measured that badly or the rotors are still in very good shape. But they really don't look that bad at all, neither front nor back. Considering that we have judder while braking though, I think I am going to go with replacing the front rotors together with the pads front and back. The rear rotors look like they should be fine for a bit longer.
01-23-18, 06:52 PM
2013 RX350 Complete Brake Job Questions
