How do you set up a fuel return line for an Aristo Swap?
01-16-18, 12:48 PM
#1
How do you set up a fuel return line for an Aristo Swap?
I have a 98' GS300 with an Aristo 2JZGTE VVTi swap. I've read in many build threads of people taking on this project on their own. In all the threads I've read, no one seems to post pictures or explain in detail about how to set up a fuel return line. Since I am going to be taking this pr-Youoject on my own, I would like to have more confidence in doing it if there was a DIY for this part of the swap.
From what I've read, this is what I know (Please correct me if I'm wrong):
-I'll need about 6ft of 5/16" rubber hose that is designed specifically to have fuel run through it
-I'll have to drill the top of the factory GS300 fuel pump hanger and screw in a bulk head that is the same diameter as the fuel line
-Then I have to get a T-fitting and run a siphon hose into the other side of the fuel tank.
What I need to figure out:
-On the engine side, where do I hook up the fuel line?
-Where would it be safe to route? Underneath the vehicle and all the way up into the access port or through the cabin, underneath the carpet?
-What kind of bulk head fitting should I be looking for? (barbed, threaded, etc.)
Thank you!
From what I've read, this is what I know (Please correct me if I'm wrong):
-I'll need about 6ft of 5/16" rubber hose that is designed specifically to have fuel run through it
-I'll have to drill the top of the factory GS300 fuel pump hanger and screw in a bulk head that is the same diameter as the fuel line
-Then I have to get a T-fitting and run a siphon hose into the other side of the fuel tank.
What I need to figure out:
-On the engine side, where do I hook up the fuel line?
-Where would it be safe to route? Underneath the vehicle and all the way up into the access port or through the cabin, underneath the carpet?
-What kind of bulk head fitting should I be looking for? (barbed, threaded, etc.)
Thank you!
01-16-18, 06:58 PM
#2
the most legit way of doin it is to get ahold of the aristo fuel pump assembly. it comes with both fuel lines on it. fuel pressure and return. on the engine, in the middle of the drivers side of motor there is a tiny fuel line that is the return. hook the 5/16 fuel hose to that. than just run it down under the car next to the original fuel pressure line. than up under the back seat back into the tank. done!
01-16-18, 09:16 PM
#3
the most legit way of doin it is to get ahold of the aristo fuel pump assembly. it comes with both fuel lines on it. fuel pressure and return. on the engine, in the middle of the drivers side of motor there is a tiny fuel line that is the return. hook the 5/16 fuel hose to that. than just run it down under the car next to the original fuel pressure line. than up under the back seat back into the tank. done!
I thought about getting an Aristo pump but it’s not in the budget at the moment. If I’m looking straight at the drivers side of the motor, I see a hardline coming out the top left side of the fuel rail. Is that the fuel feed? If so, then the banjo bolt located on the end of the fuel rail closest to the firewall would be the return?
01-17-18, 09:09 AM
#4
Driver School Candidate
It’s pretty easy, no need for an Aristo pump! I’m on a tight budget my self, I totally understand. I’m planning this swap my self. Just go pull a fuel line off another gs300. It will snap in the same location right beside your current fuel line, pull your rear bottom seat, tap a hole in the plastic of the pump top, then screw in a brass fitting in to the fuel pump, this will be your return line.
i found some helpful videos on YouTube.
The fuel return will lay and fit right beside your fuel feed, after it is installed. Add some extra fuel hose to the front part of it with it laying over the engine area, for when you drop in your motor. You can cut it, as desired.
When you take out the fuel pump, you can use a drill, or plastic reamer, this just cuts a hole directly across from the existing fuel feed line. Then screw in your brass fitting, and connect your line.
Just follow your existing line, and add a 2nd fuel line right beside it! This is all very easy. You just gotta climb under the car.
After you get everything installed, keep the rear bottom seat off to make sure your work is not leaking. You’ll be just fine!
I’ve researched this swap tremendously! And now I’m just waiting on my 2JZGTE, then I’m going to buy a clean gs300.
i found some helpful videos on YouTube.
The fuel return will lay and fit right beside your fuel feed, after it is installed. Add some extra fuel hose to the front part of it with it laying over the engine area, for when you drop in your motor. You can cut it, as desired.
When you take out the fuel pump, you can use a drill, or plastic reamer, this just cuts a hole directly across from the existing fuel feed line. Then screw in your brass fitting, and connect your line.
Just follow your existing line, and add a 2nd fuel line right beside it! This is all very easy. You just gotta climb under the car.
After you get everything installed, keep the rear bottom seat off to make sure your work is not leaking. You’ll be just fine!
I’ve researched this swap tremendously! And now I’m just waiting on my 2JZGTE, then I’m going to buy a clean gs300.
Last edited by tps3443; 01-17-18 at 09:20 AM.
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VIP161 (01-17-18)
01-17-18, 02:45 PM
#5
It’s pretty easy, no need for an Aristo pump! I’m on a tight budget my self, I totally understand. I’m planning this swap my self. Just go pull a fuel line off another gs300. It will snap in the same location right beside your current fuel line, pull your rear bottom seat, tap a hole in the plastic of the pump top, then screw in a brass fitting in to the fuel pump, this will be your return line.
i found some helpful videos on YouTube.
The fuel return will lay and fit right beside your fuel feed, after it is installed. Add some extra fuel hose to the front part of it with it laying over the engine area, for when you drop in your motor. You can cut it, as desired.
When you take out the fuel pump, you can use a drill, or plastic reamer, this just cuts a hole directly across from the existing fuel feed line. Then screw in your brass fitting, and connect your line.
Just follow your existing line, and add a 2nd fuel line right beside it! This is all very easy. You just gotta climb under the car.
After you get everything installed, keep the rear bottom seat off to make sure your work is not leaking. You’ll be just fine!
I’ve researched this swap tremendously! And now I’m just waiting on my 2JZGTE, then I’m going to buy a clean gs300.
i found some helpful videos on YouTube.
The fuel return will lay and fit right beside your fuel feed, after it is installed. Add some extra fuel hose to the front part of it with it laying over the engine area, for when you drop in your motor. You can cut it, as desired.
When you take out the fuel pump, you can use a drill, or plastic reamer, this just cuts a hole directly across from the existing fuel feed line. Then screw in your brass fitting, and connect your line.
Just follow your existing line, and add a 2nd fuel line right beside it! This is all very easy. You just gotta climb under the car.
After you get everything installed, keep the rear bottom seat off to make sure your work is not leaking. You’ll be just fine!
I’ve researched this swap tremendously! And now I’m just waiting on my 2JZGTE, then I’m going to buy a clean gs300.
Very good Sir! I appreciate the useful tips! I now feel more confident in doing this swap. Once I have everything I need and figured out, I’ll be posting up.
01-17-18, 05:41 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
No problem, alot of guys have done the return line this way.
Where did you buy your swap from? Im about to order mine, and im wanting to get the cleanest looking engine as possible. Some look like they have 250,000 kilometers on them, for $2,400 or so, while another looks like it has 30,000 kilometers on it for $2,500.
some test 160 psi compression times X6, while others test as high as 175-180 psi compression x6.
ive viewed probably every single 2JZGTE vvti aristo swap on all of ebay! Lol
Where did you buy your swap from? Im about to order mine, and im wanting to get the cleanest looking engine as possible. Some look like they have 250,000 kilometers on them, for $2,400 or so, while another looks like it has 30,000 kilometers on it for $2,500.
some test 160 psi compression times X6, while others test as high as 175-180 psi compression x6.
ive viewed probably every single 2JZGTE vvti aristo swap on all of ebay! Lol
01-17-18, 06:09 PM
#7
No problem, alot of guys have done the return line this way.
Where did you buy your swap from? Im about to order mine, and im wanting to get the cleanest looking engine as possible. Some look like they have 250,000 kilometers on them, for $2,400 or so, while another looks like it has 30,000 kilometers on it for $2,500.
some test 160 psi compression times X6, while others test as high as 175-180 psi compression x6.
ive viewed probably every single 2JZGTE vvti aristo swap on all of ebay! Lol
Where did you buy your swap from? Im about to order mine, and im wanting to get the cleanest looking engine as possible. Some look like they have 250,000 kilometers on them, for $2,400 or so, while another looks like it has 30,000 kilometers on it for $2,500.
some test 160 psi compression times X6, while others test as high as 175-180 psi compression x6.
ive viewed probably every single 2JZGTE vvti aristo swap on all of ebay! Lol
Definitely don’t go with eBay. Too over priced and what you see is not what you get. I bought my swap from a distributor called JDM Engine Bay in San Leandro, Ca. They were about an hour drive from me so I went to go buy it in person. They compression test right in front of you. If you shop around on their site, they’ll have the video clips up for each compression test. My motor was clean. It tested at 174-176psi all the way across. Broken pieces that we both missed were replaced. We checked for sludge and swabbed for oil, just for piece of mind. I shopped all across the country and even in Canada. This place had the best swap at below market prices. They even sell Aristo driveshafts and many other JDM parts.
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01-17-18, 06:34 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
The $2,400-$2500 range does include free shipping. Some specify exact item pictured, but it still seems sketchy on ebay.
other than that closest to me is about a 3 hour drive to VA, to pick my own in person.
prices are cheap but it sucks i sold my f250.
thanks for the info! Im gonna check it out. But it looks like they want $2,200 for just the engine? No transmission included. Hmm
other than that closest to me is about a 3 hour drive to VA, to pick my own in person.
prices are cheap but it sucks i sold my f250.
thanks for the info! Im gonna check it out. But it looks like they want $2,200 for just the engine? No transmission included. Hmm
Last edited by tps3443; 01-17-18 at 06:37 PM.
01-17-18, 07:13 PM
#9
When I called they said transmissions are always included because they are pretty much worthless..all the places I called said the same thing. For someone who is just looking to swap the motor and tranny just to get the car rolling, it’s gold. That’s what I’m trying to do this time around. On my first swap, I was upgrading everything before it was swapped.
01-18-18, 10:24 AM
#10
Driver School Candidate
I found a complete swap 2jzgte vvti aristo, auto trans, upgraded 2800rpm high stall jdm welded torque converter, and a real mines ecu. $2,700 shipped.
The mines ecu is more or so 25% more power over the original ecu.
The welded torque converter being 2800 stall is about $400 by its self.
this is about all the upgrading I would do, it sounds like a pretty peppy setup!
The MAP sensor is included, and the igniter is included, complete harness, and MINES ecu. I’ve just gotta order a MAF sensor for it. Preferably with the original air box.
I’m only hoping for 300-320rwhp? And maybe 300 rwtq?
Are you doing a build thread? Pics? All the info I can learn is very much appreciated! I’m less than a couple weeks away from swapping myself
The mines ecu is more or so 25% more power over the original ecu.
The welded torque converter being 2800 stall is about $400 by its self.
this is about all the upgrading I would do, it sounds like a pretty peppy setup!
The MAP sensor is included, and the igniter is included, complete harness, and MINES ecu. I’ve just gotta order a MAF sensor for it. Preferably with the original air box.
I’m only hoping for 300-320rwhp? And maybe 300 rwtq?
Are you doing a build thread? Pics? All the info I can learn is very much appreciated! I’m less than a couple weeks away from swapping myself
Last edited by tps3443; 01-18-18 at 10:27 AM.
01-18-18, 01:09 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
If I were u id also buy a cheap $15-$30 dollar oil cooler. You’ve got two hard lines coming from the transmission, towards the front of the engine. You can block these off if you like. Or run a universal trans oil cooler and this will help your transmission greatly. You can just about mount it anywhere near the front of the car.
01-18-18, 07:44 PM
#12
I found a complete swap 2jzgte vvti aristo, auto trans, upgraded 2800rpm high stall jdm welded torque converter, and a real mines ecu. $2,700 shipped.
The mines ecu is more or so 25% more power over the original ecu.
The welded torque converter being 2800 stall is about $400 by its self.
this is about all the upgrading I would do, it sounds like a pretty peppy setup!
The MAP sensor is included, and the igniter is included, complete harness, and MINES ecu. I’ve just gotta order a MAF sensor for it. Preferably with the original air box.
I’m only hoping for 300-320rwhp? And maybe 300 rwtq?
Are you doing a build thread? Pics? All the info I can learn is very much appreciated! I’m less than a couple weeks away from swapping myself
The mines ecu is more or so 25% more power over the original ecu.
The welded torque converter being 2800 stall is about $400 by its self.
this is about all the upgrading I would do, it sounds like a pretty peppy setup!
The MAP sensor is included, and the igniter is included, complete harness, and MINES ecu. I’ve just gotta order a MAF sensor for it. Preferably with the original air box.
I’m only hoping for 300-320rwhp? And maybe 300 rwtq?
Are you doing a build thread? Pics? All the info I can learn is very much appreciated! I’m less than a couple weeks away from swapping myself
you have to make sure you order the correct part number for the maf sensor. the jdm version is different than the usdm supra one. and last i checked, it goes for about 175 give or take. tread with caution. and how did you verify its a legit mines ecu?
01-19-18, 02:05 PM
#13
If I were u id also buy a cheap $15-$30 dollar oil cooler. You’ve got two hard lines coming from the transmission, towards the front of the engine. You can block these off if you like. Or run a universal trans oil cooler and this will help your transmission greatly. You can just about mount it anywhere near the front of the car.
I’ve got a legit one from my last swap. I’ve got both the tranny cooler and the power steering cooler.
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