dahoseman

I apologetically state that this is a lazy question. I'm trying to find the sizes of ALL the stock speakers on my GX470 so that I can order replacements before tearing the interior apart to get to them. I use the excuses that it is currently my only vehicle that I need for work and that I'm doing some traveling-work away from home for several months which puts me high traffic areas (even where I live) where I have a fairly limited of time to have my vehicle torn apart. The vehicle is relatively new to me and the stock speakers have a lot of buzzing and sounds like they were blown at one point.

I have searched and read several articles, but I keep seeing mutually exclusive write-ups about speaker sizes, voice coils, and resistance ratings. Can anyone give me a confident answer?

I have a 2004 Lexus GX470 with the Mark Levinson sound system with the navigation system and the flip-down LCD system from the rear roof (multi-disc CD and the DVD in console).

1. What are the speaker sizes on this setup? (dash, doors, rear, subwoofer)
2. Are they already crossed over in a component setup?
3. What is the resistance? I have seen 4, 7.5, and 8ohm reported
4. Is the rear suboofer 6" and not 6.5"? Is it dual voice coils at 7.5ohm?
5. I have read that the mounting depth of the rear subwoofer is 3.5" total. Is that accurate?

Thanks for any help

Kidscolleg

Posted this on ih8mud.com about a year ago, wouldn't change a thing -

So this mod is about $143 ($71.50/door) but well worth it. I had to replace my ML 6x9s so I figured I may as well do the other speakers too while I had the door panels off. All are 8ohm and require very little modification, in the case of the mid and tweeters I even used the stock brackets. Took about three hours. Watch online videos on how to remove door panels, if you don't know how, very easy. Update - Added sub upgrade below.

Speakers -

6x9 woofers - got these from another post. $57.97

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N8077VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IIC6CPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2" midrange - Picked mainly for their size but sound very decent. Clip or unsolder and reuse harness and bracket. Used some machine screws, washers and nuts to hold the speakers in the brackets. $17.95

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHBOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1" tweeters - unsolder harness, re-use cap and bracket. You have to clip off a small plastic piece but the new tweeter snaps right in. I used some super glue just to make sure it stays put. These are the most expensive component but well worth it. $66.75

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EO76ZGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


So much better than stock.


UPDATE: Went back in to apply Dynamat all over the doors. The improved bass was causing rattles and vibrations on the doors. Applied Dynamat all over the door and behind the 6x9 drivers. Much better. Amazing improvement over stock ML speakers and keeps getting better.

UPDATE2: Went back in and put 199uF caps on the 6x9s to limit the bass a bit as it was still shaking the door panels. I think the speaker grills are too restrictive and keeping air behind the panel.

UPDATE3: Since I was in audio upgrade mode, I ripped out the useless 6" sub box and put in a external 8" wired to the same stock amp (just extended wire out, box sits behind passenger second row seat pointing to back of truck). This sub driver is made for small enclosures as I didn't want a huge box back there. Its a 8" driver but requires a 9" hole in the box and a 10" grill. Really deep and punchy bass even from the stock amp. Doesn't come in under $100 but wanted to keep this all together. So happy with this setup.

"Tang Band W8-2022 8" RBM Subwoofer 8 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LYL4R0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N4918A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

dahoseman

Thanks for that write up

So the front doors are:
1) 6x9" woofer
2) 2" midrange
3) 1" tweeter
all 8ohm

is that correct?
Is it a component system already crossed over? Or are they all sort of full range receiving raw signal?

Are the rear doors 5.25" or 6.5"?

I believe the dash is 3.5"
What is the hatch speaker?

Kidscolleg

So the front doors are:
1) 6x9" woofer - yes
2) 2" midrange - yes, but a 3" may fit too
3) 1" tweeter - yes
all 8ohm - measured 6.5-8ohms

is that correct?
Is it a component system already crossed over? Or are they all sort of full range receiving raw signal? There is a active crossover for the bass, both the 6x9 and the sub. Capacitors are on the tweeters for protection. I added 199mf capacitors to the 6x9 to limit LF below 100hz to those as they were moving too much air, causing the door panels to rattle. If you could open the plastic grill to let more air through they probably wouldn't be needed.

Are the rear doors 5.25" or 6.5"? - I haven't changed those.

I believe the dash is 3.5" - probably the same as the doors, 3" but impossible to get to that speaker without removing the entire electronics stack in the dash, the speaker is mounted from below not the top.
What is the hatch speaker? - same as the doors, 3".

Kidscolleg

It doesn't look like those 8ohm 6x9 speakers are available anymore. I'd be completely comfortable with 4ohm speakers as long as the 199uF capacitors are used to limit the LF and the resultant power draw. Straight full range 4ohm LF woofers would likely overheat and kill the amp with prolonged use.

Kidscolleg

I'd get this if its not too deep - https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...ProductDetails

The sub I posted above is freaking great, I'd have no reservations in getting this speaker.

dahoseman

My plan is to just install 4ohm speakers all around, with the exception of the rear sub. This is not fully mathematically accurate, but I'm not too worried about overheating the OEM amp because I predict that I will only need to set the volume at 1/2 - 2/3 of current to achieve the same sound compared with the 8ohm OEM set, not to mention a higher sensitivity of the new speakers.

The rear sub I'm going to replace with the Audiopipe 6" Woofer and wire both channels together and run that in series.

I'm going to get some wiring connectors to avoid too much modification of stock gear.
Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles

Kidscolleg

Good luck. That sub is likely too deep for the stock enclosure and you probably won't get low enough bass or satisfying levels from a 6" woofer. I looked at making a new enclosure for the 8" and final gave up and just did the external box.

chiph9

The factory sub is a 6" low-throw in a sealed box. There's no room for anything bigger. You'll have to extend the wires out and put a box in the cargo area. Consider using a high-level adapter and an aftermarket amp to avoid blowing the factory ML amp's channel.

Be aware that the head unit has an adaptive sound level (ASL) feature and will change the response curve based on your speed (so turn it off).

Chip H.

dahoseman

Thanks for the info. I have never seen such a screw-ball sound system in any other vehicle before with a strange mix between obscure 8ohm, 7.5ohm, and 4ohm equipment with components adapted from home audio. Just odd.

I believe several other people have installed the Audiopipe "sub" in the rear with pretty decent results.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how...rd-row.282462/

From the looks of the sub enclosure, it looks as though you could take a jig saw and widen the cutout to 7.2", just wide enough to accommodate an 8" MB Quart shallow mount dual-4 ohm subwoofer. It mounts in 3.1" and the cutout is 7.2" I am thinking that might work. I suppose it's worth a shot. I can always return it.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/maxxson...?skuId=9076303

dahoseman

Crutchfield actually has some decent photos of an install

https://www.crutchfield.com/Car/outf...x?i=109CL9600C

It's nice to see everything with the covers off. It looks as if they replaced the dash speaker from the top.

dahoseman

For $40, I think I am going to give this a shot to see if I can fit this in the 6" speaker space using an 1/2" x 8" circular spacer. The narrowing of the speaker's spider towards the magnet should give a little bit of clearance for a slightly wider diameter speaker (with some trimming modification) and spacer should also provide some "seal" over top of any cutting adaptations to the stock opening with some adhesive.

• POWER HANDLING RMS - 200 watts
• POWER HANDLING PEAK - 400 watts
• IMPEDANCE - 2 x 4 Ohm
• SENSITIVITY (1 WATT / 1 METER) - 81dB
• CUT-OUT Ø - 7.24" (184mm)
• CHASSIS DEPTH FROM FLANGE - 2.80" (71mm)

JimboVA

The physical fit may work but that MB Quart 8-inch is expecting a lot more air volume behind the speaker. Its specs recommend a box of 0.8 cubic feet (12.5"x12.5"x9") so you might not get quite the excursion and low freq response you're hoping for. One suggestion that may help in your test is to load the factory enclosure with plenty of damping material -- stuff it like a pillow. It'll give the speaker the perception of a larger enclosure.

dahoseman

Thanks. That's my tentative plan is to fill it with some sort of poly-fill stuffing. It may not have all of the sound of a fully customized and tuned system, but I'm sure it will be better than stock. I'm trying to maintain stock-like appearance as much as possible, and also not add anything that will: 1). take up space in the rear; 2) get in the way of hauling things; 3) be damaged by gear being thrown around in back

JimboVA

Excellent! Let us know how it turns out, and take pictures...we love pictures!