Lwalters

I have a 2003 GX 470 with 190,000 miles on it. Last week while towing my enclosed trailer 3500 pounds. I heard a popping coming from the front end. I knew I had one of the CV joints boots torn before this so I climbed underneath and noticed that another one had torn on The other side. So I decided to go ahead and replace both CV axles. It is still popping. This only happens under a stop then acceleration. If you’re rolling it will not pop unless you really accelerate. Not sure what it Is worst-case I could think was the differential but when I change the oil there was no substantial amount of shavings in the oil. Could it be a motor mount not sure. Any recommendations or suggestions is welcome.

chiph9

Is it a pop or a clunk?

If it's a clunk, it's probably a worn center spline joint on the driveshaft. It's a common problem - there's a new part that was designed to solve it. About $500-600 to get it replaced at the dealer.

If it's a pop, it could be a worn out brake caliper.

Chip H.

mann777

While doing the Front diffs. Can u tell exac tly let us know how you did the task sequentially.

bkingsle8

Sounds like the driveshaft or a caliper sticking?

Lwalters

Removed the brake calipers off the spindles then removed the 2 bolt on the lower ball joint assembly and the sway bar. Then removed the cv axle. When installing made sure to line up the splines and pushed the axle in. Then reassembled. It was popping before and is still doing it. Made sure to check the splines on inside of the diff before installing the axle.

mann777

Check the spare support disc wheel plate is having play. Also when u removed the old drive shaft dust boot cover. Did u replace the steering knuckle oil seal. That is the standard replacement. Never use the old ones back. Just making sure u did that part

Lwalters

What part are you refer to?

Lwalters

Ok so yesterday I took my gx470 to the shop where I get my tires and they also have done some front end work on my Avalon in the past. I had them check it out. They could not find any thing wrong on the front end that would be causing the issues. The only thing they could think of was I got a bad cv axle or there is something wrong with the diff. They and I did not have the time for them to investigate farther.

So today I decided to remove the front drive shaft to see if it is the front diff or not. WELL now my ALL WHEEL drive truck does not move at all. So what’s up with that. I figured it would drive with just the rear wheel but nothing.

chiph9

If you remove a driveshaft you'll have to lock the center diff, otherwise all you'll get is what the limited-slip feature will give you (as long as it lasts... it's not designed for 100% power transfer). The center diff is normally "open" like the others, unless you lock it. So torque would be going to the side with least resistance until it's locked

You'll be ok driving on pavement for short distances with the center diff locked and a missing driveshaft as left-right torque split will be applied by the differential that still has torque going to it and you won't have any binding problems. Be sure to unlock the center diff when you replace the driveshaft. I would expect this technique to only be used to get you back to civilization after a breakdown off-road, not for long-term use. Do a 4x4 system fluid service afterwards.

The clunk is nearly always from the rear driveshaft. Although it's possible it's from the front (not typical).

When you put the driveshaft back on, make sure you align it with the marks you made when you removed it, so that it stays in balance.

Chip H.

Lwalters

Well it has been driving me crazy the last few days trying to figure this out. So today we took it to the local Lexus dealer to have them look at it. Come to find out it is the transfer case. Dealer price to replace $4,000.

bkingsle8

You should take a video with audio of the sound (maybe a drive over the phone type vid) and post it on Youtube, with a link for members to help diagnose. I haven't heard of this happening and seriously doubt it'd be an isolated thump/pop when stopping/accelerating, if it were the transfer case, seems like it would be a constant noise while driving?

What was the exact diagnosis?

I would def. get a second opinion, and if it indeed matches the dealer diagnosis, just buy a new case from a donor 4runner/Lexus - cases probably interchange - and get a local, competent, and trusted shop, to swap them out.

chiph9

Not sure if the 4Runner and GX transfer cases interchange - consult an expert. Someone on IH8MUD might know.

(the 4Runner has electric driven range selection, the GX for whatever reason, has a shift lever into the cabin)

Chip H.

RXstate

My wife noticed noise coming from the front passenger side that varies with speed. I just replaced the passenger side CV axle and bearings, and the noise let up a bit. BUT, I noticed it never went away. I thought it had to do with the axle seal at the bear (the new one that came with the bearing was slightly bigger than the new one that came with the CV axle so I thought that could be the issue - so I took it all apart and used the seal that came with the CV axle with the same result). It hadn't occurred to me to check it in Low 4; however, when I switched to Low 4, it made major, major noise. I switched it back and the noise went away. I didn't have any fluid come out of the transfer box when I switched out the CV axle and I've not refilled it (yet). Am I too late? Have I don't irreparable damage? I drove the vehicle a total of about 15 miles testing it, but only in High 4. My next step is to drain and refill the transfer case and, maybe, replace the bearing and CV axle on the driver side. Ideas?

SteveAlex

Hi, I think I might have the same issue. There is a kind of rubber or cushion where the body is connected to the chassis. The clung noise comes from the passenger side right under your feet. I checked outside and found that to the left of the wheel (right side) there is a rubber/cushion that is worn out, resulting the body and the chassis touching each other (or impacting each other without proper suspension rubber) every time there is a ditch or bump in the road. (and here in Nigeria there are lots of bad roads!) The dealer tried to fix is but did a poor 'roadside garage' job and replaced it with some inferior part, so the problem is back again. Now I have two questions for your guys that know:
1) what is the name of this part?
2) how do you replace it

I might need to replace it on all 4 corners/connection points of the car. Since it connects the body and chassis I can imagine that the you need to create space in order to place the rubber/cushion in between. This might also be the reasons that the dealer repair guy found it difficult to replace the part.
Appreciate your responses! Steve

chiph9

"Cushion Sub-Assembly, Cab Mounting"

https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.c...rimLevel=19100

There's eight different part numbers, and you need two of each (for left/right sides). Prices are in the $30-$60 USD range (each). Consider replacing them all - if you have a couple that have gone bad, the others can't be far behind.

5220135100 front bumper area, upper
5220235090 front bumper area, lower
5220335210 front door area, upper
5220435120 front door area, lower
5220535160 rear door area, upper
5220635040 rear door area, lower
5220735050 rear bumper area, upper
5220835050 rear bumper area, lower

If you have the 3rd row seat option, looks like you also need a pair of a 9th cushion.

5221660010 rear cross-member area

I've never replaced one. There's a nut & washer underneath the vehicle, but I'm not sure if the bolt will stay in place when you loosen it (you might need to get inside the interior panels to hold the other end). An impact driver might be fast enough to where it won't spin - no idea.

Chip H.