New car - paint protection advice needed!
04-05-17, 11:54 PM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
New car - paint protection advice needed!
Hi there guys!
I bought a new 2017 IS200t (Nightfall Mica/Chateau) recently. I'm still in the process of registering it since I got it from out-of-state.
Before I get it on the road, I wanted to know what would the best kind of protection be for my paint.
I'd like to get it covered from rock chips, dents, scratches, etc and at the same time keep it nice and shiny.
I know clear bra is an option. I've also heard of Perma Plate which is kind of a hard silicon coating on the paint. Any reviews about that one? Please do direct me if there are any relevant threads.
I'd love to hear your advice!
Thanks!
I bought a new 2017 IS200t (Nightfall Mica/Chateau) recently. I'm still in the process of registering it since I got it from out-of-state.
Before I get it on the road, I wanted to know what would the best kind of protection be for my paint.
I'd like to get it covered from rock chips, dents, scratches, etc and at the same time keep it nice and shiny.
I know clear bra is an option. I've also heard of Perma Plate which is kind of a hard silicon coating on the paint. Any reviews about that one? Please do direct me if there are any relevant threads.
I'd love to hear your advice!
Thanks!
04-06-17, 04:03 AM
#2
Pole Position
Highly recommend the invisible bra for the front bumper, mirrors and part of the front of the hood that slopes downward. Had it on my cars now for 12 years and does what it is suppose to do and it last. As far as the paint, I would go with Chemical Guys Jet Seal for one year protection and multiple coats of Zaino Z2 for shine. Every year wash it with Dawn detergent to strip everything away, than clay bar, Jet Seal and Z2 again.
04-07-17, 02:07 PM
#3
Rookie
Thread Starter
Highly recommend the invisible bra for the front bumper, mirrors and part of the front of the hood that slopes downward. Had it on my cars now for 12 years and does what it is suppose to do and it last. As far as the paint, I would go with Chemical Guys Jet Seal for one year protection and multiple coats of Zaino Z2 for shine. Every year wash it with Dawn detergent to strip everything away, than clay bar, Jet Seal and Z2 again.
Or would the detailer do it for me?
Also, do I need to prep the paint in any way before installation?
04-07-17, 05:15 PM
#4
If you're in SoCal, I recommend talking to Mike from WrapArmor; he's in Anaheim and does very good work.
For protection purposes, I rank it as Clear Bra > Vinyl > any coating.
04-07-17, 05:47 PM
#5
Most PPF (clear bra) installers should be able to prep the car for you and that should be part of the service but it's going to vary from place to place. Some places around here will tell you to detail it beforehand and bring them a clean prepped car while others will just do it themselves. From what I've seen most of them will just wash it very thoroughly with a pressure washer, strip off old wax, and clay bar.
If you want it absolutely perfect then maybe it's worth it to get a detailer to do the PPF prep and also polish the paint to remove any swirl marks, scratches, etch marks, water spots, etc, but that's not necessary most of the time (obviously will vary case by case).
Find a detail shop that does PPF as well. That's the best way to approach this. They will prep it accordingly and have an installer do the film at their work. You can also ask them if they offer paint protection coatings to install on top of the PPF and the rest of the vehicle. I would skip waxes and sealants and just get the car coated. It's a much more durable and longer lasting product.
If you want it absolutely perfect then maybe it's worth it to get a detailer to do the PPF prep and also polish the paint to remove any swirl marks, scratches, etch marks, water spots, etc, but that's not necessary most of the time (obviously will vary case by case).
Find a detail shop that does PPF as well. That's the best way to approach this. They will prep it accordingly and have an installer do the film at their work. You can also ask them if they offer paint protection coatings to install on top of the PPF and the rest of the vehicle. I would skip waxes and sealants and just get the car coated. It's a much more durable and longer lasting product.
04-08-17, 05:59 AM
#6
I would go with the full hood if you're going that far.
I had mine done at Premier Protective at Fremont, CA when I lived in the Bay. The product used was the Clear Guard X. I had the entire hood, front bumper, headlights, foglights, partial fenders and mirrors done. No regrets.
I had mine done at Premier Protective at Fremont, CA when I lived in the Bay. The product used was the Clear Guard X. I had the entire hood, front bumper, headlights, foglights, partial fenders and mirrors done. No regrets.
04-08-17, 07:44 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
How much did y'all pay to have the clear bra installed? I'll be getting my new car in the next month and want to start getting an idea of how much it would cost.
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04-08-17, 10:01 AM
#8
I was quoted 6000 for a full vehicle while front bumper, headlights, fog lights, full hood, mirrors, and front fenders cost 1200 (I was given a pretty nice discount too).
04-08-17, 11:21 AM
#9
Rookie
Thread Starter
I would go with the full hood if you're going that far.
I had mine done at Premier Protective at Fremont, CA when I lived in the Bay. The product used was the Clear Guard X. I had the entire hood, front bumper, headlights, foglights, partial fenders and mirrors done. No regrets.
I had mine done at Premier Protective at Fremont, CA when I lived in the Bay. The product used was the Clear Guard X. I had the entire hood, front bumper, headlights, foglights, partial fenders and mirrors done. No regrets.
Depends on how much you want done and what brand you select. Personally, I would go with Suntek over Xpel because Xpel is priced higher while not offering much more.
I was quoted 6000 for a full vehicle while front bumper, headlights, fog lights, full hood, mirrors, and front fenders cost 1200 (I was given a pretty nice discount too).
I was quoted 6000 for a full vehicle while front bumper, headlights, fog lights, full hood, mirrors, and front fenders cost 1200 (I was given a pretty nice discount too).
04-08-17, 12:32 PM
#10
Xpel has historically been the best but it does come at a premium. Suntek used to have a yellowing issue as well, but in recent years, that seems to be a non-issue as they've addressed that.
Concisely, Xpel >= Suntek > 3M supposedly.
04-08-17, 07:21 PM
#11
All the films yellow over time. We offer XPEL Ultimate and Suntek (standard and Ultra) but we are honest when we talk to our customers. Depending on how much sun exposure the vehicle sees, your maintenance regiment and any LSP products over the film, the time it takes the film to yellow will greatly vary. But it will happen eventually, just a matter of when. Would be great if someone made a film that didn't have adhesive that turned yellow over time.
It's honestly only a problem on white and silver cars. Anything darker and you won't even know if the film yellowed until you pull it off and have the film in your hands. Wouldn't worry about it too much.
It's honestly only a problem on white and silver cars. Anything darker and you won't even know if the film yellowed until you pull it off and have the film in your hands. Wouldn't worry about it too much.
04-08-17, 08:02 PM
#12
Rookie
Thread Starter
I'm not familiar with that brand, but I'm going to assume it's 3M's PPF. From what I know, it's the least recommended out of the 3 as it does yellow over time.
Xpel has historically been the best but it does come at a premium. Suntek used to have a yellowing issue as well, but in recent years, that seems to be a non-issue as they've addressed that.
Concisely, Xpel >= Suntek > 3M supposedly.
Xpel has historically been the best but it does come at a premium. Suntek used to have a yellowing issue as well, but in recent years, that seems to be a non-issue as they've addressed that.
Concisely, Xpel >= Suntek > 3M supposedly.
All the films yellow over time. We offer XPEL Ultimate and Suntek (standard and Ultra) but we are honest when we talk to our customers. Depending on how much sun exposure the vehicle sees, your maintenance regiment and any LSP products over the film, the time it takes the film to yellow will greatly vary. But it will happen eventually, just a matter of when. Would be great if someone made a film that didn't have adhesive that turned yellow over time.
It's honestly only a problem on white and silver cars. Anything darker and you won't even know if the film yellowed until you pull it off and have the film in your hands. Wouldn't worry about it too much.
It's honestly only a problem on white and silver cars. Anything darker and you won't even know if the film yellowed until you pull it off and have the film in your hands. Wouldn't worry about it too much.
04-08-17, 09:30 PM
#13
Suntek standard looks by far the best of all the films on the market. Suntek Ultra would be second. 3M 3rd place, XPEL last place. XPEL doesn't look very good, extremely orange peely and grainy. Looks okay on lighter colors like white but on darker colors I am not a fan of it, especially seeing how nice Suntek looks.
Warranty: Suntek standard (5yr), Ultra (10yr), Xpel Ultimtate (10 yr).
Suntek Ultra already has an additional top coat built into the film that has the same characteristics of ceramic coatings (sheeting/beading/self cleaning effect) and works extremely well. On par with most coatings that we've tested. That's something to consider. If you get that film, no need to pay for ceramic coating since it's part of the films composition.
All these films are self healing. One thing to note, XPEL is kind of a pita to work with so unless your installer is REALLY good and REALLY familiar with XPEL, often times you'll get lift marks, stretch marks, etc. It's not a very forgiving material, one shot deal with XPEL otherwise ytou're getting permenant install errors. PPF installs are rarely perfect, even the best of the best installers will make mistakes but XPEL will typically have more install errors than Suntek which is a more user friendly material to work with.
Research the shop that will be doing the work very closely, it's not a cheap service. Don't want to have just anybody come out and throw the film on there.
Warranty: Suntek standard (5yr), Ultra (10yr), Xpel Ultimtate (10 yr).
Suntek Ultra already has an additional top coat built into the film that has the same characteristics of ceramic coatings (sheeting/beading/self cleaning effect) and works extremely well. On par with most coatings that we've tested. That's something to consider. If you get that film, no need to pay for ceramic coating since it's part of the films composition.
All these films are self healing. One thing to note, XPEL is kind of a pita to work with so unless your installer is REALLY good and REALLY familiar with XPEL, often times you'll get lift marks, stretch marks, etc. It's not a very forgiving material, one shot deal with XPEL otherwise ytou're getting permenant install errors. PPF installs are rarely perfect, even the best of the best installers will make mistakes but XPEL will typically have more install errors than Suntek which is a more user friendly material to work with.
Research the shop that will be doing the work very closely, it's not a cheap service. Don't want to have just anybody come out and throw the film on there.
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sdong826 (02-03-20)
04-09-17, 04:59 PM
#14
The installer should prep the car before installing the protection but ask to be sure it is done.
From what I have seen on my car (22,000 miles) is I would do the front bumper, head lights and mirrors. I don't have any chips on the hood or pillars. I am picky about seeing the lines of the protection so I would stop at the hood.
If seeing the edges doesn't bother you then do more of it. A good protection will last many years. You get what you pay for.
From what I have seen on my car (22,000 miles) is I would do the front bumper, head lights and mirrors. I don't have any chips on the hood or pillars. I am picky about seeing the lines of the protection so I would stop at the hood.
If seeing the edges doesn't bother you then do more of it. A good protection will last many years. You get what you pay for.
04-09-17, 05:04 PM
#15
Rookie
Thread Starter
Suntek standard looks by far the best of all the films on the market. Suntek Ultra would be second. 3M 3rd place, XPEL last place. XPEL doesn't look very good, extremely orange peely and grainy. Looks okay on lighter colors like white but on darker colors I am not a fan of it, especially seeing how nice Suntek looks.
Warranty: Suntek standard (5yr), Ultra (10yr), Xpel Ultimtate (10 yr).
Suntek Ultra already has an additional top coat built into the film that has the same characteristics of ceramic coatings (sheeting/beading/self cleaning effect) and works extremely well. On par with most coatings that we've tested. That's something to consider. If you get that film, no need to pay for ceramic coating since it's part of the films composition.
All these films are self healing. One thing to note, XPEL is kind of a pita to work with so unless your installer is REALLY good and REALLY familiar with XPEL, often times you'll get lift marks, stretch marks, etc. It's not a very forgiving material, one shot deal with XPEL otherwise ytou're getting permenant install errors. PPF installs are rarely perfect, even the best of the best installers will make mistakes but XPEL will typically have more install errors than Suntek which is a more user friendly material to work with.
Research the shop that will be doing the work very closely, it's not a cheap service. Don't want to have just anybody come out and throw the film on there.
Warranty: Suntek standard (5yr), Ultra (10yr), Xpel Ultimtate (10 yr).
Suntek Ultra already has an additional top coat built into the film that has the same characteristics of ceramic coatings (sheeting/beading/self cleaning effect) and works extremely well. On par with most coatings that we've tested. That's something to consider. If you get that film, no need to pay for ceramic coating since it's part of the films composition.
All these films are self healing. One thing to note, XPEL is kind of a pita to work with so unless your installer is REALLY good and REALLY familiar with XPEL, often times you'll get lift marks, stretch marks, etc. It's not a very forgiving material, one shot deal with XPEL otherwise ytou're getting permenant install errors. PPF installs are rarely perfect, even the best of the best installers will make mistakes but XPEL will typically have more install errors than Suntek which is a more user friendly material to work with.
Research the shop that will be doing the work very closely, it's not a cheap service. Don't want to have just anybody come out and throw the film on there.
The installer should prep the car before installing the protection but ask to be sure it is done.
From what I have seen on my car (22,000 miles) is I would do the front bumper, head lights and mirrors. I don't have any chips on the hood or pillars. I am picky about seeing the lines of the protection so I would stop at the hood.
If seeing the edges doesn't bother you then do more of it. A good protection will last many years. You get what you pay for.
From what I have seen on my car (22,000 miles) is I would do the front bumper, head lights and mirrors. I don't have any chips on the hood or pillars. I am picky about seeing the lines of the protection so I would stop at the hood.
If seeing the edges doesn't bother you then do more of it. A good protection will last many years. You get what you pay for.
I'm getting a reasonable quote from a detailer for the front bumper and full hood. However, he's busy for the next month and can only do it around the second week of May.
Is it okay to drive around the car till that date?
Or should I be conservative in my use of it?