Rear camber bolt washer
08-04-16, 01:16 PM
#3
Thank you very much. The local Lexus dealer wasn't too helpful. They wanted the vin number when I called, but the car was on the rack at that moment. I ordered both items from Carson Toyota.
Last edited by tiger4life; 08-04-16 at 03:08 PM.
08-05-16, 12:01 PM
#5
The actual Cam adjustment bolt that goes through the arm is part no.- 4819030040
If toe is slightly negative or positive, the tire wear produced can be crossed with a small area of the tire that is worn when camber is out too.
Although, some manufactures like just -1 degree camber in the rear and aome times front.
As far as true toe adjustment, I think that has more to do with the actual rear toe links, which are the same part numbers on almost all Lexus that share that rear end link platform. For example, all ISF (even 2008-2011 when the rear changed), ISX50 (even sport models) and the GS have all the same toe links.
Now another part that contributes to the rear geometry including caster is the traction links which are all the same part no.s except for the newest ISF and IS sport models. I might attempt to see if they work for our cars to correct any load problems when cornering hard like the 2008 ISF had before they switches to the 2011 setup.
I also have OEM ISF sway bar endlinks on my car.
If toe is slightly negative or positive, the tire wear produced can be crossed with a small area of the tire that is worn when camber is out too.
Although, some manufactures like just -1 degree camber in the rear and aome times front.
As far as true toe adjustment, I think that has more to do with the actual rear toe links, which are the same part numbers on almost all Lexus that share that rear end link platform. For example, all ISF (even 2008-2011 when the rear changed), ISX50 (even sport models) and the GS have all the same toe links.
Now another part that contributes to the rear geometry including caster is the traction links which are all the same part no.s except for the newest ISF and IS sport models. I might attempt to see if they work for our cars to correct any load problems when cornering hard like the 2008 ISF had before they switches to the 2011 setup.
I also have OEM ISF sway bar endlinks on my car.
04-24-17, 06:14 AM
#7
The cam bolt is available on
now.
Mine are rusted to the tie rod/control arm bushing sleeve so bad I'm going to have to go in with a sawzall and cut the bolt off and just remove it all and replace.
Can't see any other way. Torch and air hammer couldn't do it.
Was a trick that helped get me SOME toe in it, if you have it locked up so you can turn it but it just twists the rubber, pop the joint off the knuckle, adjust the cam bolt to as far as you can go, then tighten and then force the tie rod/control arm down into the knuckle again. Boom, you have SOME additional toe you didn't have before.
Mine are rusted to the tie rod/control arm bushing sleeve so bad I'm going to have to go in with a sawzall and cut the bolt off and just remove it all and replace.
Can't see any other way. Torch and air hammer couldn't do it.
Was a trick that helped get me SOME toe in it, if you have it locked up so you can turn it but it just twists the rubber, pop the joint off the knuckle, adjust the cam bolt to as far as you can go, then tighten and then force the tie rod/control arm down into the knuckle again. Boom, you have SOME additional toe you didn't have before.
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06-23-21 09:53 PM