Check out a video I made highlighting the importance of DI seal install.

Direct injector seals for ISF:
(Haven't confirmed these on ISx50)
23258-28011(qty 8) inj top seal retainer
90301-06018(qty 8) inj top rail seal
23257-74010(qty 8) inj rail seal bottom retainer
23256-74010 (qty 8) inj rail spacer
23255-31010 white Teflon compression seals (qty 20, extra in case they tear during install)
23291-31011 (qty 8) inj to cylinder head dampener seal
17177-38040(qty 2) intake manifold gaskets typically one time use.
DI injector electrical harness connector
90980-12117 (x4 or x8 for all) commonly break/ crumble.
valley seals pcv
12273-38020
12269-38010
22271-38020 pcv valve
12204-38020 valve
12261-38060 pcv hose
wiring harness big black cover, under engine cover. Covers wiring spaghetti -> 82817-30L40

Optional:
89458-22010 fuel pressure sensor.
90430-12026 pressure sensor crush washer/gasket(Becoming a common failure.)



Tool I used here.

 

Perfect timing! I'm about to do this job myself for both the port & direct injectors.

Did you flow test the injectors while you had them out? Do you recommend replacing the c clip locking ring on the direct injector or is that part reusable? Did you replace the baskets?

Any tips removing / installing the fuel rail from the head? or removing the old seals & baskets?

Any additional tips would be greatly appreciated.

I paid quite a bit more for the tool here

I also sourced all replacement seals from a local shop here






-Tom

 

Ultrasonic cleaned the tips. I haven't been able to source baskets, that would be helpful though.

Lexus gives you replacement c-clips in the master gasket set so I replaced them. You should be fine reusing as long as they're not damaged.
Make sure you replace the larger round DI to cylinder head sealing/crush gasket.(23291-31011)
I also torque the rail evenly back into the cylinder head at 15ft/lbs.
Lube the Teflon seals with clean engine oil before installing. Not a bad idea to run a soft bristle bore brush through the ports as well.

You need a specific DI flow testing bench since they operate at ~60VDC.
Applying 12v will likely damage the DI injectors.


(I have a port injector flow & clean bench. I've bench chasing a cylinder 7 misfire and #7 DI was stuck in the cylinder head the worst I've ever had on a 2UR so I'm thinking the DI injector coil is dying as it misfired only under 40% load and above.)

 

Great video!

If you decide to just replace your injectors on principle, it sounds like you can order any color you like as long as they are a complete set on each bank. Is that correct?

FWIW, ordering direct from Japanese sources runs $230.15 each and they come with all the necessary seals, o-rings, and the clip. Not sure if they're "ready to install" or if you'll need to install the seals per your video though. eBay listings show the Teflon seals separate, so the installation tools and the process you documented would be necessary even with all new kit.

23209-39155-A0 MARK YELLOW
23209-39155-B0 MARK BLACK
23209-39155-C0 MARK BROWN
23209-39155-D0 MARK GREEN

I also commented on the video - would a leakdown test identify a leaky seal, or is the pressure used for a leakdown too low to find something like this?

 

Yes.


Perhaps, but you'd likely need the intake manifold off and spray the DI injectors with soapy water to see bubbles forming.
Leakdown tests are almost always done at 100psi with the piston at TDC.

Consider engine operating cylinder pressure is dynamic. Figure generally:
Idle 100-300psi
Medium load 400-700psi
WOT 900-1100psi.

Thus, a misfire would be much more apparent at medium to high load, given there is a leaking Teflon DI seal.
You'd also likely see carbon tracking at the DI injector body.

 

That's what I was thinking. Leakdown isn't done at a pressure mimicking operating pressures, so it's great for large errors (dead rings or bad valves), but not likely to be a good test for small volume leaks at high pressure like DI seals. Thanks for the response!

 

Crazy he did all this for it to blow I don't get what's up with these engines.

 

If you actually knew anything about what happened you wouldn't be confused. I made this video to help others, not for people to throw uneducated opinions about why my engine had a failure. You're welcome.

 

Wasn't trying to be a jerk.
Did you ever explain why you're injector got stuck open or whatever happened despite them being freshly installed?

 

13x,xxx miles on original injectors. No SOI or EOI DI tables in VFT., in cylinder pressure, in cylinder temperature, fuel quality.
​​​​​​Take your pick of root failure.
Fresh seals matter nothing in relation to them failing.

Not much you can do when a injector stays open and washes the oil film out of the cylinder.

 

Oh darn nevermind I thought you replaced the injectors as well. My misunderstanding.
Do you think if you swapped em, your car would still be running currently? It's just such a bummer to see all these high hp isfs have catastrophic engine failure

 

I caught the issue after a 60-130. Scored the cylinder bore on #7. PTW was already very loose, so now I need pistons that are 0.005" bigger to bring PTW clearance back where we want it after we clean up the bores. Last I talked to JE they're north of $2.7k now too. Exploring other forged pistons, but they're custom made - 8 weeks out.
Catastrophic would be an exaggeration imo. Of all ways for an engine to fail - I'd say I was pretty lucky. Engine still ran good, just misfired under moderate load.

 

Sounds like you've never done engine development. There are ALWAYS failures. That's how we learn. A very long time ago, I worked on a project to fit 2.2 ratio rods in a Yamaha 400cc bike engine. It had some issues, and ended up being pretty pricey, but it delivered what we were looking to accomplish. More often than not we find the limits by exceeding them.

I would reach out to Mahle as well. They provide pistons to top level racing, and I had a convo with them a long while back about making some pistons for me. They were pretty keen on helping and not absurdly expensive.

 

"Sounds like you've never been on an SDV op in the yellow sea"
Yeah I've never done that.

Just joking, but it seems like most of boosted Fs have issues related to a component failing or installation error/user error and lack of prep.

I've heard of too many Fs having direct injectors fail and stay open even on NA builds, others have failed from not installing/torquing the crank damper properly.
But the most obvious one being people on stock ring gap running hot on boost or just pushing the car a lot without enough ethanol or cooling.
Then there's the occasional guy who doesnt check his oil levels and runs out a bearing.

My theory is lots of these "blown" or near blown Fs would still be running if they didn't have installation error or if it was common practice to replace your injectors, run e85 and gap your rings/upgrade pistons when boosting.

But then what do I know (seriously I don't have a boosted F lol)
What are your insights on this matter mcpo lobuxracer?

 

I'm not boosted. I've not had any issues with my DI injectors in 247k miles on one and 173k miles on the other. The entire fuel system was not designed to accommodate E85 - so there are lots of possible failure points with seals, corrosion, incompatible materials, and flow rates. Generally speaking, you don't start with a very high compression engine and boost it even if you're running alcohol unless you built it from the ground up with the intent of running on alcohol be it ethanol or methanol. So, since I don't have direct experience with doing any of this on a 2UR-GSE, I don't have any opinion. I just know if it were my plan, I'd start with the rotating assembly and work my way through the fuel system to be reasonably confident everything in the system is up to task.

Sure, assembly errors cause problems, but it's not the only reason there are failures. Software helps you avoid common pitfalls, but that doesn't mean it will ensure your build (even if perfectly assembled) will withstand what you ask of it. Experience is directly related to the size of your pile of bent, broken, twisted, and burned pieces. I learned that a long time ago building and modifying engines.