Anyone know for sure what the factory fill is? Synthetic or Dino?

Also, going for my first oil change and want 5W-30, not the CAFE 0W-20 recommended by the US owners manual. Think the dealer service will give me trouble about changing the weight?

 

I don't think pure dino 0w-20 is a thing. I suppose the factory could have filled with a blend.

No idea whether the dealer would change weights for you. Is 5w-30 mentioned as an alternative in the manual? You can always DIY whatever you want, of course.

Mark

 

I don't know answer on factory fill...but I am leaning toward the 5W-30 switch myself. And I'm curious what convinced you? The fact that everywhere else in the world, that engine gets 5W-30. That suggests to me CAFE/mpg concerns drove 0W-20 decision...not engine longevity.

Not to hijack thread and create a ******storm with another oil thread....

 

Primarily I want to change because i know for a fact that this engine was not designed for 0W-20, and that this recommendation is 100% CAFE driven. Also, I live in a hot state and have no need for extremely cold operating performance.

Additionally, I use Mobil1 5W-30 in my FJ and it would be nice to only need to stock a single oil in my garage.

I guess I’ll call the service advisor ahead of my appointment and discuss options. I don’t feel like they will have a warranty issue with it, especially if I can dig up “other market” recommendations for the heavier oil. Anyone got a link?

 

I don't, but did answer my own question about what the (2023 US) manual says: The only alternative mentioned is 5w-20, with the admonition to use 0w-20 next time.

I've not felt the need for a thicker oil in my GX, but did when I had a jeep JK. The Pentastar motors sound like a box of rocks at startup, and Chrysler has a hard time keeping top ends in them. The thicker oil seemed to leave a better film on the lifters and camshafts, though it was no cure all.

Let us know what the dealership service folks say.

Mark

 

^^ ... this is correct ... the owners manual for this exact same engine in other countries recommends heavier viscosities based on ambient operating temperatures. I have always switched to 5w-30 Mobil-1 Full Synthetic at 1,200-odd miles ... GX460 ... 4-Runner ... FJ Cruiser ... given engine longevity for me is more important than a rounding error improvement in gas mileage.

If one is warranty paranoid ... Toyota does not use traceable dyes like the VW/Audi 508 Spec 0w-20 oil (looks green blue) ... plus the oil can be easily changed back to 0w-20 if one is taking the vehicle in for a warranty claim.

 

I seriously doubt the dealership is going to blink an eye when I ask the for the 5/30, but I’ll report my findings. Even if they did want to deny a warranty claim down the road, US law says they’d have to prove the oil was the root cause first. Good luck I say

 

^^ agree ... it's not as if the dealership is going to "taste test" the oil to determine the viscosity ... 5w-30 is not that far off from 0w-20 from a visual standpoint ... their focus will be that the recommended oil/filter change intervals were followed.

Seriously ... most (Toyota/Lexus) dealerships don't even use the recommended "Liquid Gold" 75w in the transfer case ... they use 75w-90 GL-5 as used in the front and rear differentials.

 

Not Apples to Apples comparison, but found this from Tundra Forum.

Again, its not the same engine, read it to own discretion

5.7 V8

FROM TUNDRA FORUM 2007 model

Disclaimer to the Flamer: This thread is not intended to stir up a debate, it is for information to others who may be interested in hearing what Toyota's response is. If you're not interested, read no further and simply close this thread.

OK, Here's the scoop,

I scheduled an oil change at my local dealership, and paid to have Mobile one synthetic use for the oil change. I requested either 0w20 or 5w20 per the owner's manual specification for 5.7L Engine. I am taking a 4,600 mile trip in 5 days, and wanted fresh oil for the journey in my new 2007 Tundra CrewMax. After arriving at the dealership to pick up my vehicle, I found that the dealer had installed 5w30 Mobile one synthetic instead of the recommended 5w20. I raised concern about the discrepancy, but was told it would not void the warranty, and there is little difference in performance. I questioned the response from the dealership, but I required the use of my truck, and it was already 5:30 PM when I picked it up from the dealer. I wasn't real happy about the response...

So I decided to do about 7 hours of oil viscosity research and also contacted Toyota Motor Sales USA by phone and email. I even searched this forum and saw TMS response to others with the same questions stating " Absolutely use 5w20".

After doing the math, and researching pressure, flow, and viscosity, I came to the conclusion that there is nothing wrong with 5w30 (I am en engineer after all..it's what I do..). Why 5w20? Think CAFE (hinted to by Toyota below...).

Then, I received the response from Toyota as follows:

Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.

We appreciate your interest in properly maintaining your 2007 Tundra and using the appropriate engine oil for your vehicle. We apologize for your concern regarding the oil viscosity used by your dealership.
According to our records, you contacted us telephone today on June 14, 2007 regarding your 2007 Tundra. At that time we referred we advised to you that 5w-30 oil viscosity will not affect engine. Adv on next oil change can choose to use 5w-20 for best gas mileage.
Out vehicles come from the factory with natural petroleum-based engine oil. We are currently recommending American Petroleum Institute (API) grade SJ petroleum-based engine oil. In moderate climates, this oil should have a Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) viscosity rating of 5W-30. However, 10W-30 is recommended for use in areas with higher temperatures. In our high mileage tests with preventative maintenance performed at the recommended intervals, the recommended natural petroleum-based oil has provided excellent service.
If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us. Your email is documented at our National Headquarters under file #200706140107. Toyota Customer Experience

Take it for what it is worth. I will let you all know how the truck performed over the trip...

Pepto[img]data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7[/img]

 

^^ yes, viscosity has always been based on ambient temperatures ... until CAFE standards over-ruled (in the US) to save a rounding error in fuel economy ... so everyone please, just do your due diligence ... research the EXACT SAME ENGINE in other country owner's manuals ... the recommended oil viscosity ... Hmmm ...

 

Are there many issues related to 0W-20 motor oil in the 4.6? I don't seem to recall many, so if it's don't broke don't fix it? Wouldn't the CORRECT method for determining which viscosity is best be to conduct tests on the used motor oil from your engine? Otherwise how does anyone have any idea wtf they are doing?

 

^^ things don't break due to oil viscosity ... this is all about engine longevity ... specifically when operating in high(er) ambient temperatures, or when towing ... not something anyone here can reasonably quantify. The WTF question here is answered by Toyota Engineering ... as reflected in non-USA owner's manuals where Toyota recommends heavier viscosities based on ambient operating temperatures.

To CAFE or not CAFE ... that is the real question here ... my vote goes to "Toyota Engineering" ... and not to "The Government Regulators" ...

Typical 30-95 degree F ambient temperature range in my region ... so 5w-30 ...

 

And Toyota could care less if 0w-20 means an engine doesn't last as long. It will still be well outside any warranty or even any class action lawsuit. But it will effect the life of the engine to have dramatically thinner oil. I use exclusively 5w-30.

Blame US government regulators (and especially the state of CA) Toyota doesn't want to put super thin oil in these things. Same with start/stop nonsense.

Modern vehicles have so much nonsense going on that will dramatically hurt the consumer all to eek out like 1 extra mpg.

 

It would be interesting to see a credible study on the carbon footprint of the shortened lifetime and the extra parts / maintenance needed due to these hacks purely made to conform with some (stupid?) EPA regulation. Like if an engine and vehicle only lasts 100k miles and you need to buy a new one what is the actual additional pollution and emission of the new vehicle's manufacturing process produces as opposed to using the original vehicle for 200k+ miles. But I guess we won't see anything credible on this issue any time soon.

 

You'll never get that, unfortunately.

It reminds me of when they first had these "low water" toilets that came out. You had to flush multiple times to get them to work, completely negating the advantage. I had to replace several of these in my house because they were so bad (and now they sit in a landfill)

But some bureaucrat got to check a box.

I'm all for things that are more efficient, but not at gunpoint.