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The Alpine is a non-powered 10" DVC sub.(4 ohm wired to 2ohm) It will handle 500 watts continuous and 1000 watts peaks. Powered by a 500 Watt alpine amp.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
The Alpine is a non-powered 10" DVC sub.(4 ohm wired to 2ohm) It will handle 500 watts continuous and 1000 watts peaks. Powered by a 500 Watt alpine amp.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
Cool, Thanks for info.
So what size of front and rear speakers did you install 6x9 and 6x8?
The Alpine is a non-powered 10" DVC sub.(4 ohm wired to 2ohm) It will handle 500 watts continuous and 1000 watts peaks. Powered by a 500 Watt alpine amp.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
I was thinking to drop JL 12" micro sub it's 400 watts RMS. There is one guy who wants 700$ for custom build box, kind of insane.
Cool, Thanks for info.
So what size of front and rear speakers did you install 6x9 and 6x8?
The front's are 6.5" Boston Pro and Infinity Kappa Tweeters.
Rears are still stock.
I will replace all someday but am in escrow on a house that needs a complete interior remodel so funds are being diverted.
I may still go back and replace the rears with the Boston Pros if I ever get the time to mess with it.
[QUOTE=Ratchey;9797757]The front's are 6.5" Boston Pro and Infinity Kappa Tweeters.
Rears are still stock.
I will replace all someday but am in escrow on a house that needs a complete interior remodel so funds are being diverted.
I may still go back and replace the rears with the Boston Pros if I ever get the time to mess with it.[/QUOTI
I confused, sorry. On those pictures the door cut out looks like an oval and you mentioned you have used adapters from your old car in order to install 6.5.
Correct, the opening is slightly larger than a 6x9". But the stock speakers are 6.5" and I used adapters to fit a 6.5". Once I have the funds, I will probably upgrade to a 6x9 or 8" in the front just to increase the mid-bass.
Correct, the opening is slightly larger than a 6x9". But the stock speakers are 6.5" and I used adapters to fit a 6.5". Once I have the funds, I will probably upgrade to a 6x9 or 8" in the front just to increase the mid-bass.
Stock Speaker Front
Boston Mid with Adapter
hmmm very interesting. There is no way to install 6.5 into the OEM adapter, so I need to buy a new adapter or 6x9, right?
Just a quick followup on this. I have not had time to do anymore work on the system. I have it tuned to where it sounds decent on most songs, but I think I want to upgrade to some newer speakers. Looking at maybe the new Infinity Kappa Perfect series with the 6x9s for more upfront mid-bass. Anyway, I am currently trying to purchase a house so this project must sit on the back burner for a while.
Just thought I would post a pic of the current state of the trunk assembly.
Just installed a subwoofer and it's humming, did you have any similar issues?
Last edited by 40edison; 03-14-17 at 03:08 PM.
Reason: Misatke
Just installed a subwoofer and it's humming, did you have any similar issues?
No, if it's humming you probably have a ground loop. You rarely hear external noise in the subs. It's usually heard in the main speakers.
Clean the area where you grounded it, or move the ground to a different location.
Make sure the power wires are not near the signal wires.
Ratchey, really awesome work you're doing! I am like you in that I want a more immersive audio experience when I'm driving. However, I don't have the car audio installation experience that you possess. In your opinion, would it be worth it to change out all the stock speakers (minus the sub and the tweeters, which look to be a pain) with aftermarket speakers? I have a 2013 ES without ML and my old car has aftermarket speakers which I could easily transfer (2x 6.5" Infinity Reference 2-way and 2x 6x9" Pioneer 3-way) to the ES. Do you think this job would be worth my time without changing the amp, sub, and head unit??
Ratchey, really awesome work you're doing! I am like you in that I want a more immersive audio experience when I'm driving. However, I don't have the car audio installation experience that you possess. In your opinion, would it be worth it to change out all the stock speakers (minus the sub and the tweeters, which look to be a pain) with aftermarket speakers? I have a 2013 ES without ML and my old car has aftermarket speakers which I could easily transfer (2x 6.5" Infinity Reference 2-way and 2x 6x9" Pioneer 3-way) to the ES. Do you think this job would be worth my time without changing the amp, sub, and head unit??
It's a simple enough process that it is worth trying. The tweeters are easy enough to replace as well so don't be afraid to do those as well.
I can't say how much of an improvement you will get. The area where the stereo lacks the most is the bass. I imagine just upgrading the sub system would improve the overall sound greatly.
How exactly did you get the signal from the small white signal harness to the DSP? It wasn’t clear if you spliced that and ran it direct to the DSP? I’m working on adding an aftermarket amplifier and bypassing the factory amp. There was a short in either the amp or the signal wire and it eventually stopped working, so the plan is to take the factory amp out completely. The volume controls etc. don’t work unless they’re hooked up to the amp, which I assume the signal goes through that digital cable. In one of your photos, it doesn’t look like you spliced into that white signal cable.
03-10-17, 05:31 PM
