When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i had 240k on the other one. It would take a long time to go into gear when cold I would have to give it gas for it to finally bang into gear in reverse or drive. Until one day it got too bad even when warm to the point I couldn't drive it anymore. I had no check engine light. I did not check the codes though.
So, replacing the transmission and torque convertor did not resolve your problem - the car still would not get in gear. Here's a long shot... Assume the problem is in the ECU (electronics), you can do a manual test by unplugging the solenoid wire harness to see if the car would get in gear.
So, replacing the transmission and torque convertor did not resolve your problem - the car still would not get in gear. Here's a long shot... Assume the problem is in the ECU (electronics), you can do a manual test by unplugging the solenoid wire harness to see if the car would get in gear.
Would it move if I removed this and manually put into gear? At that point would I just swap that solenoid over from previous trans?
Let's try one more test... can you get your rear tires off the ground (on jack stands) and put the transmission in "R" or "D" with the engine running. Do the rear tires move at all? If not, can you move them by hand or are they locked as if they are in "P"?
Regarding the "Manual Shift Test", the idea is that by unplugging the solenoid connector (circled in red), you are essentially disabling any "automatic" functions that are controlled electronically. If the torque converter and transmission are installed properly, it should shift in gear (R, L, 2, 3, 4 and D) and move the car. If not, the torque converter or transmission or both are defective mechanically.
Let's try one more test... can you get your rear tires off the ground (on jack stands) and put the transmission in "R" or "D" with the engine running. Do the rear tires move at all? If not, can you move them by hand or are they locked as if they are in "P"?
Regarding the "Manual Shift Test", the idea is that by unplugging the solenoid connector (circled in red), you are essentially disabling any "automatic" functions that are controlled electronically. If the torque converter and transmission are installed properly, it should shift in gear (R, L, 2, 3, 4 and D) and move the car. If not, the torque converter or transmission or both are defective mechanically.
Alright guys so I just finished up my work week (12 hour shifts)so I'm back on it and gonna figure this out. My big brother wanted to pull the trans to triple check that the converter sits perfect with flex plate and yes it was perfect. Gonna put trans back in today and test this plug to see if it changes anything. It shifts through all gears and yes when the vehicle is off all 4 wheels the rears start turning. Thank you guys so much for the help and support it's greatly appreciated.
Alright guys so I just finished up my work week (12 hour shifts)so I'm back on it and gonna figure this out. My big brother wanted to pull the trans to triple check that the converter sits perfect with flex plate and yes it was perfect. Gonna put trans back in today and test this plug to see if it changes anything. It shifts through all gears and yes when the vehicle is off all 4 wheels the rears start turning. Thank you guys so much for the help and support it's greatly appreciated.
i just put the Transmission back in and left that plug unplugged, Still nothing. Plugged it back in, still nothing. I'm at my wits end with this.
Try disconnecting the trans cooler lines from the radiator and putting them in a clean bucket. Start the car and see if a good amount of fluid is flowing out of one of the hoses. Don't do this for too long as you will starve the trans of fluid. This will make sure the pump is making pressure.
There is a chance the trans you got is defective. How reliable was the place you got it from? Almost all engines and transmissions available used are "certified low mile and in great working condition." There is nothing stopping you from selling your old one as such. See the problem?
i had 240k on the other one. It would take a long time to go into gear when cold I would have to give it gas for it to finally bang into gear in reverse or drive. Until one day it got too bad even when warm to the point I couldn't drive it anymore. I had no check engine light. I did not check the codes though.
It sounds like the very same problem exists with both the original transmission and the replacement transmission - neither one will shift into gear. have you considered taking the original transmission and converter to a reputable shop and have them checked out?
You are braver than I would be. If I had a 2001 LS430 with transmission issues I would just part it out and buy another one or have a competent transmission shop that provides warranty on labor to do the job.
You are braver than I would be. If I had a 2001 LS430 with transmission issues I would just part it out and buy another one or have a competent transmission shop that provides warranty on labor to do the job.
It sounds like the very same problem exists with both the original transmission and the replacement transmission - neither one will shift into gear. have you considered taking the original transmission and converter to a reputable shop and have them checked out?
How does a trans shop check the transmission? Rough estimate of cost to do?
Try disconnecting the trans cooler lines from the radiator and putting them in a clean bucket. Start the car and see if a good amount of fluid is flowing out of one of the hoses. Don't do this for too long as you will starve the trans of fluid. This will make sure the pump is making pressure.
There is a chance the trans you got is defective. How reliable was the place you got it from? Almost all engines and transmissions available used are "certified low mile and in great working condition." There is nothing stopping you from selling your old one as such. See the problem?
oooo you guys thought I was done? Sorry I'm back. I'm not giving up on this! I miss my car. You guys have no idea what it's like going from daily driving an ultra luxury ls430 to daily driving a 96 civic 2 door coupe. With 2 children both still in car seats. I can hardly fit the dam car seats in the civic!!
ok well 911LE major shoutout to you bro! You've truly been a blessing along with everyone else.
So get this. I turned on the car and stepped on brake and gas and brought up to about 4K. Check engine light popped up for speed sensor. Well I never had speed sensor issue on old trans so I just swapped them. Didn't change anything. Then took 911le advice and disconnected trans cooler lines from radiator. Nothing. No trans fluid is being put out of either trans cooler lines. Didn't have any time to inspect further. Gonna disconnect from both sides and try to blow it out with compressor and see if maybe my lines are just clogged? I greatly appreciate your guys feedback.
You are braver than I would be. If I had a 2001 LS430 with transmission issues I would just part it out and buy another one or have a competent transmission shop that provides warranty on labor to do the job.
take off the plastic peices underneath. Take off exhaust. Disconnect driveshaft. Take down subframe just a bit(others may be more nimble with those 2 top bolts next to starter, I got fat hands) pull the 4 connectors, one 12mm for shift linkage. 2 trans cooler metal lines. Unbolt and pull off. Really simple once plastic and exhaust is out of the way.
The actual labor is nothing. I don't think I did anything wrong in the process including it's been put off and on multiple times with same outcome. I just don't know what's going on. If I had the money I'd definitely take to a shop but for now I gotta tread these waters.
The reason I suggested disconnecting the cooler lines was to see if the pump was pumping fluid. It obviously isn't. I suspect that when you installed the torque converter you didn't install it far enough and engage all of the sets of splines. To install it correctly you need to lift up slightly while rotating and shaking it. There is more than one set of internal splines that need to be meshed. It should sit well within the bellhousing and will need to be pulled back towards the engine to bolt it up. When you removed the trans and said the converter was flush with the flexplate you had me concerned the the converter wasn't installed all the way. The converter is what drives the pump.
to me it has always sounded like torque converter was out of fluid. can you put old torque converter on new transmission? is that even possible? wish you luck big guy
03-02-17, 07:28 PM
