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Yes, You will see a small vacuum hose/tube above your airbox that has a "small round object" that it connects to that also has an electrical plug near it. You will see this vacuum hose snake towards the firewall and the other end snakes down in front of your airbox. Near the "small round object" you will see a short piece of vacuum hose no longer than 2in. in length. Disconnect that vacuum hose and plug it with 2 plugs. That will eliminate the "fake sound" sent thru your speakers. You cannot unplug the electrical plug there bc it will cause a light to come on your dash. Encircled in red....hope this helps
Yes, You will see a small vacuum hose/tube above your airbox that has a "small round object" that it connects to that also has an electrical plug near it. You will see this vacuum hose snake towards the firewall and the other end snakes down in front of your airbox. Near the "small round object" you will see a short piece of vacuum hose no longer than 2in. in length. Disconnect that vacuum hose and plug it with 2 plugs. That will eliminate the "fake sound" sent thru your speakers. You cannot unplug the electrical plug there bc it will cause a light to come on your dash. Encircled in red....hope this helps
Just curious, if you unplug a vacuum hose, how dose this disable the active sound control from the speaker?
I think doing this method will result in the flap not opening on the side of the air box to allow more air. That intake induction sound will go away? Isn't that the glorious sound you hear over 4k rpm?
Just curious, if you unplug a vacuum hose, how dose this disable the active sound control from the speaker?
I think doing this method will result in the flap not opening on the side of the air box to allow more air. That intake induction sound will go away? Isn't that the glorious sound you hear over 4k rpm?
I've went back & forth on this several times tryin' to see which way I like it better & EVERY time I go back to the original set-up! To me it sounds Worst when you un-plug it, but that's just me
Just curious, if you unplug a vacuum hose, how dose this disable the active sound control from the speaker?
I think doing this method will result in the flap not opening on the side of the air box to allow more air. That intake induction sound will go away? Isn't that the glorious sound you hear over 4k rpm?
No, doing this does not mess with the flap on the air box....mine still works flawlessly! It sounds so much better now....as I have the Apexi suction kit, more mechanical sound to me.....not so electrical.... This eleviates the pressure that signals the electrical current that triggers the sound to be sent thru the speakers....
I pulled the small vacuum hose yesterday. Before hand, I drove for a while in the Sport S+ mode to get used to the sound. Then pulled on end of the short hose and used a vacuum cap where it attached (see pic). I left it this way in case I want or need to reverse it. And it worked - disabled the piped in amplified sound. Now I hear what is actually in the engine bay, not what is in the cabin. Still sounds great at WOT, though sounds more "mechanical". I see no reason at all to return to the amplified sound, and no desire to do so.
Last edited by BossMoss; Jan 15, 2017 at 08:41 PM.
Reason: Incorrect info
Since I got my exhaust installed I can't tell any difference in sound between sport s and sport s+ when I have the exhaust valves open. The exhaust is loud enough to mask it.
I was worried about the exhaust being too loud before I got it. Now I don't know how I lived without it.
I do close the valves when I park it for the night though. That cold start with the valves open can be pretty loud and I don't want to make the neighbors upset. I open them up when I start driving and leave them open until I park again for the night.
Since I got my exhaust installed I can't tell any difference in sound between sport s and sport s+ when I have the exhaust valves open. The exhaust is loud enough to mask it.
I was worried about the exhaust being too loud before I got it. Now I don't know how I lived without it.
I do close the valves when I park it for the night though. That cold start with the valves open can be pretty loud and I don't want to make the neighbors upset. I open them up when I start driving and leave them open until I park again for the night.
I pulled the small vacuum hose yesterday. Before hand, I drove for a while in the Sport S+ mode to get used to the sound. Then pulled on end of the short hose and used a vacuum cap where it attached (see pic). I left it this way in case I want or need to reverse it. And it worked - disabled the piped in amplified sound. Now I hear what is actually in the engine bay, not what is in the cabin. Still sounds great at WOT, though sounds more "mechanical". I see no reason at all to return to the amplified sound, and no desire to do so.
BTW, the round black thing just seems to be akin to a passive radiator maximizing the collection of intake sound. It does not appear to have any mechanical moving parts or electrical parts.
Vacuum from the intake manifold comes from the right (in this picture) gets valved by the solenoid valve (with the connector at top), and then the actuator converts the changing vacuum level to motion to activate the door.
Vacuum from the intake manifold comes from the right (in this picture) gets valved by the solenoid valve (with the connector at top), and then the actuator converts the changing vacuum level to motion to activate the door.
Yes, I believe you're right. I looked at it more closely in better light and it is the actuator that opens the flap.