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Lower ball joint part number

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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:21 AM
  #16  
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I face this dilemma as well. I have al my control arms on order, and then with the help of Superdenso and Doublebase, I come to find out that those ball joints will need to come out and be replaced as well. There are tools you can rent to remove the ball joints which involve cones and a vise that can press these things out. Like this:



Could you update on hw you did with the other joint? was the knuckle easy to remove? How much did the shop charge for removal and install of the old and new ball joint
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #17  
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Further...this is the best price I can find anywhere: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400881140017?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Unfortunately, Febest doesn't have theirs in stock (at only 15.95 apiece). So for 90 dollars/pr, that's triple the price. At this point though, I don't really have a choice and another 90 bucks is a drop in the bucket.
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #18  
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if there's no play in those ball joints, don't replace them. Big hassle unless you have an air chisel to hammer it out and a mean table vice grip to hold the entire thing to press the ball joint back in. Just order the febest and use those seals on the old joints. 90 bucks but it will save you tons of time.. Big PITA to remove those ball joints with those c-cups. There just isn't enough clearance around the ball joint to remove it - its at an odd angle. You'll see when you try to take it out. Best of luck and LMK if you have any questions.
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 06:26 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by PlatES300
if there's no play in those ball joints, don't replace them. Big hassle unless you have an air chisel to hammer it out and a mean table vice grip to hold the entire thing to press the ball joint back in. Just order the febest and use those seals on the old joints. 90 bucks but it will save you tons of time.. Big PITA to remove those ball joints with those c-cups. There just isn't enough clearance around the ball joint to remove it - its at an odd angle. You'll see when you try to take it out. Best of luck and LMK if you have any questions.
They were not budging! the uppers I did but the lowers I paid Big O to do lol
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 09:11 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by capt
They were not budging! the uppers I did but the lowers I paid Big O to do lol
Yeah....when my well-equipped shop did mine, they commented on what biotch they were to get out. Glad i left this one to the pros.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 09:21 AM
  #21  
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This is why I said this job is not DIY. The upper arms and struts yes but the lowers are tricky.
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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 12:19 PM
  #22  
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Ordered my ball joints after i saw one was bad. Had a tear in and saw it was leaking. Probably would have to replace them anyway after taking off the rear lower arm.

I started working on the front lower when i saw the joint. I will see what i do next week. Take it to my shop are continue,
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Old Oct 12, 2018 | 10:47 PM
  #23  
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Hi, how did you separate the ball joint from the knuckle? I tried 5lbs hammer, c clamp separator tool, it would not buzz!
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Old Oct 12, 2018 | 10:58 PM
  #24  
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Superdenso, A very big thank you to you for the awesome detailed write-up to separate control arms! Just by following, I was able to separate all the control arms, lowers and the uppers. However I am stuck with the ball joint. The ball joint turns freely, also I have damaged the thread. Now I am stuck. Unable to separate from the knuckle. I tried with C-tool separator with 1000 ft-lb air wrench, it will not even buzz! Please advice me how to separate it.

Again a big thanks.
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 10:50 AM
  #25  
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You might be using the ball joint tool wrong. Make sure it's set up right. If you still can't get it out, take it to a parts store that has a press or even a shop. They won't charge you much.
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Old Oct 18, 2018 | 01:10 PM
  #26  
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I bought a 20 Ton shop press from Harbor Freight, and finally was able to remove the ball joint from steering knuckle
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