60mph Vibrations - DIY Steering Tensioner Adjustment
Thread Bump!
there is a locking nut. although i couldn't EVER get it loose, i didnt like the idea of taking a hammer and hammering a flat head to loosen it but maybe i'll try it again. oh FYI u dont have to completely remove this locking nut just loosen it AND before you start turning the other nut make sure you mark where you started with a sharpie so you can easily go back to the beginning if you need
tried with this wrench we sell at work BUT still couldnt get the locking nut off.
tried with this wrench we sell at work BUT still couldnt get the locking nut off.
Hey Brian, do you recall how you eventually got that lock nut off? I tried doing this yesterday because of loose steering I have but that damn nut is next to impossible to loosen. Going in I knew that it would have been tight so I sprayed some PB Blaster and let it soak in for at least 35 minutes while I did other things. I used a tool similar to what you have posted but it didn't work. Probably not having enough leverage didn't help either.
Ha! Here in the south west it's a piece of cake. No rust on my car.
The way to tighten it is to go till its tight then back it off a little. Drive to make sure your steering wheel returns to center if not back it off a little more till it returns to center but no more. Also if your nut is an outy you need to get the update.
The way to tighten it is to go till its tight then back it off a little. Drive to make sure your steering wheel returns to center if not back it off a little more till it returns to center but no more. Also if your nut is an outy you need to get the update.
Last edited by sam12345; Apr 15, 2013 at 07:48 PM.
Pole Position
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 259
Likes: 1
From: AZ
Just found this thread wondering if it would fix my issue. I have this intermittent problem where the wheel will shake when going over 60mph, and it feels like a shake through the steering assembly itself(aka not an unbalanced tire). Also, i feel(more so than I hear) a clunk through the steering when I go over sharp bumps or pot holes, it feels like something is bad or loose.
I took it to an honest shop who inspected it and took it out for a test drive even and could not find any issues.
Could tightening this fix my problem? Or does something else need to be tightened?
I took it to an honest shop who inspected it and took it out for a test drive even and could not find any issues.
Could tightening this fix my problem? Or does something else need to be tightened?
Last edited by Behemoth7; Jun 1, 2014 at 10:13 AM.
Driver
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: Port st Lucie, Florida
It is my personal opinion that tampering with the steering rack specs is not a very good idea , at all .
Most of the vibration problems are usually bushings , lower arms and the wheels . These aftermarket wheels are somehow difficult to balance to perfection , and the so called "high speed balance machines " are a joke . The mechanic would hook the tire to the machine , spin it for a very few seconds (maybe 20 miles per hour spin or so) then stop it and that is how they balance the tires ... the tire being balanced is not made to spin at higher velocities where it can be really completely balanced .
That is how you get slight vibrations at 40 mph and more intense after 60 if there are some other problems like bushings , wear tires , etc .
Most of the vibration problems are usually bushings , lower arms and the wheels . These aftermarket wheels are somehow difficult to balance to perfection , and the so called "high speed balance machines " are a joke . The mechanic would hook the tire to the machine , spin it for a very few seconds (maybe 20 miles per hour spin or so) then stop it and that is how they balance the tires ... the tire being balanced is not made to spin at higher velocities where it can be really completely balanced .
That is how you get slight vibrations at 40 mph and more intense after 60 if there are some other problems like bushings , wear tires , etc .
Last edited by josey88; Jun 1, 2014 at 02:27 PM.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: IL
Just found this thread wondering if it would fix my issue. I have this intermittent problem where the wheel will shake when going over 60mph, and it feels like a shake through the steering assembly itself(aka not an unbalanced tire). Also, i feel(more so than I hear) a clunk through the steering when I go over sharp bumps or pot holes, it feels like something is bad or loose.
I took it to an honest shop who inspected it and took it out for a test drive even and could not find any issues.
Could tightening this fix my problem? Or does something else need to be tightened?
I took it to an honest shop who inspected it and took it out for a test drive even and could not find any issues.
Could tightening this fix my problem? Or does something else need to be tightened?
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: OH
Struggled with the locking nut, but ended up using a giant pipe wrench the loosen it. Then moved the big nut about an 1/8th of an inch clockwise and BAM! I couldn't believe how much of a difference on the highway that tiny adjustment made to the steering. No more shaking or looseness on the highway, best thing I have ever done to this car 
.
.
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 351
Likes: 3
From: KS
I know this is an old thread and no, I haven't read all the post, but in my personal experience on my 98 GS4, as long as the tires are balanced and the wheels are properly torqued to factory specs, there is no vibration.
I've had tires installed at shops and had vibration, took it back, shop said wheel must be bent. I took the car home and checked the torque. Lugs were grossly over-torqued. Retorqued them myself and vibration gone.
Just my personal experience with this car since '07.
I've had tires installed at shops and had vibration, took it back, shop said wheel must be bent. I took the car home and checked the torque. Lugs were grossly over-torqued. Retorqued them myself and vibration gone.
Just my personal experience with this car since '07.
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Advanced
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 500
Likes: 38
From: OH
Consider yourself lucky if you don't have vibrations. I had an alignment done and also all of my wheels balanced and I still struggled with a vibration. There are other members on the forum that had many parts replaced to no avail and still experienced a vibration.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: ga
Lostape, try changing the sway bar links if you have not done so. I just did mine a 1/4/16 and now no vibration at all. I have 03 GS300 and had been dealing with this for 4 years after changing everything but the sway bar links. I went with the MOOG Problem Solver from Rockauto at 18.00 a piece. It tightened my front end so much that I have to remind my self to check my speed because i'm traveling too fast. Feels like it is new at this point. Takes about 20 min each side to install not counting jacking and removing the wheel. I luv driving my GS again.
Driver
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: OH
Lostape, try changing the sway bar links if you have not done so. I just did mine a 1/4/16 and now no vibration at all. I have 03 GS300 and had been dealing with this for 4 years after changing everything but the sway bar links. I went with the MOOG Problem Solver from Rockauto at 18.00 a piece. It tightened my front end so much that I have to remind my self to check my speed because i'm traveling too fast. Feels like it is new at this point. Takes about 20 min each side to install not counting jacking and removing the wheel. I luv driving my GS again.
Rookie
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: ga
Not at all. The front links are different from the rear.
I will be doing rear next week.
What size allen key will I need?
I loosened and removed the two top nuts first and then removed the bottom bolt. There is enough clearance on the rubber boot side to clamp down with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Also be careful not to strip one of the 2 top nuts because it is notorious for stripping. I ended up slightly stripping the first side and remembered I had an (Irwin Bolt‑Grip) kit and had no problems removing the nut.
1.5"\13mm bolt grip size.
You can purchase kit at LOWES and other stores at around 20 bucks.
Also remember that there has to be a load on control arm.
I was able to place a jack under control arm and lift it up to the point where it aligned with the sway bar and screw the top 2 nuts in without issue.
Do the top 2 nuts last when installing new link.
Irwin bolt kit link below.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-3...11480002581652
I will be doing rear next week.
What size allen key will I need?
I loosened and removed the two top nuts first and then removed the bottom bolt. There is enough clearance on the rubber boot side to clamp down with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Also be careful not to strip one of the 2 top nuts because it is notorious for stripping. I ended up slightly stripping the first side and remembered I had an (Irwin Bolt‑Grip) kit and had no problems removing the nut.
1.5"\13mm bolt grip size.
You can purchase kit at LOWES and other stores at around 20 bucks.
Also remember that there has to be a load on control arm.
I was able to place a jack under control arm and lift it up to the point where it aligned with the sway bar and screw the top 2 nuts in without issue.
Do the top 2 nuts last when installing new link.
Irwin bolt kit link below.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-3...11480002581652
Last edited by pitchblaq; Jan 9, 2016 at 08:19 AM.
Struggled with the locking nut, but ended up using a giant pipe wrench the loosen it. Then moved the big nut about an 1/8th of an inch clockwise and BAM! I couldn't believe how much of a difference on the highway that tiny adjustment made to the steering. No more shaking or looseness on the highway, best thing I have ever done to this car .
.
Driver
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
From: OH
Not at all. The front links are different from the rear.
I will be doing rear next week.
What size allen key will I need?
I loosened and removed the two top nuts first and then removed the bottom bolt. There is enough clearance on the rubber boot side to clamp down with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Also be careful not to strip one of the 2 top nuts because it is notorious for stripping. I ended up slightly stripping the first side and remembered I had an (Irwin Bolt‑Grip) kit and had no problems removing the nut.
1.5"\13mm bolt grip size.
You can purchase kit at LOWES and other stores at around 20 bucks.
Also remember that there has to be a load on control arm.
I was able to place a jack under control arm and lift it up to the point where it aligned with the sway bar and screw the top 2 nuts in without issue.
Do the top 2 nuts last when installing new link.
Irwin bolt kit link below.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-3...11480002581652
I will be doing rear next week.
What size allen key will I need?
I loosened and removed the two top nuts first and then removed the bottom bolt. There is enough clearance on the rubber boot side to clamp down with a pair of needle nose vice grips. Also be careful not to strip one of the 2 top nuts because it is notorious for stripping. I ended up slightly stripping the first side and remembered I had an (Irwin Bolt‑Grip) kit and had no problems removing the nut.
1.5"\13mm bolt grip size.
You can purchase kit at LOWES and other stores at around 20 bucks.
Also remember that there has to be a load on control arm.
I was able to place a jack under control arm and lift it up to the point where it aligned with the sway bar and screw the top 2 nuts in without issue.
Do the top 2 nuts last when installing new link.
Irwin bolt kit link below.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-3...11480002581652