SPC Front camber + Megan rear suspension rods install photos + results
I wait a few weeks to get the alignment but they can only adjust toe for our cars. Your camber will depend on how low you drop your car. With my drop the camber was outside factory spec on all four wheels. Tire wear approx 10,000 miles later was bald on inside in front and 3mm on inside in the rear
I just order an IS300 SPC camber kit as well....I'll keep you guys updated on my project!
As for the 3GS ball joints.....why dont you find out the part number for the OEM ball joint and see if its the same as the 3GS....if it is then it would work
As for the 3GS ball joints.....why dont you find out the part number for the OEM ball joint and see if its the same as the 3GS....if it is then it would work
tinylexus : How where your friends alignment specs after he installed those arms. Did it fix the camber without throwing off the caster?
I ask this since on my DA there was a problem with a camber kit skunk 2 released. The kit was designed for the 88-91 civic and skunk 2 thought it would work on the DA. Sure enough he arms bolted up and corrected the camber but they changed the caster settings.
This is why I ask the question as those arms are for the IS300.
I ask this since on my DA there was a problem with a camber kit skunk 2 released. The kit was designed for the 88-91 civic and skunk 2 thought it would work on the DA. Sure enough he arms bolted up and corrected the camber but they changed the caster settings.
This is why I ask the question as those arms are for the IS300.
i used the ball joints for my car and had Miami Chassis do the rear camber and now all my camber and toe is in factory spec. They just opened the hole on the cross member and slid the rear lower control arm in to fix the rear camber. Its kinda ghetto but it works and has worked for all my friends cars as well
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,859
Likes: 12
From: Waipahu, Waikele, HI
I have been working on it for some time. I have the rear lower control arm designed and just trying to make a decision on the eccentric peice.
This is what my solution would be...correcting on the bottom not the top.
The fewer adjustable linkages the better as if you adjust too many links you may have a resulting geometry that will not cycle clean. Also adjustable links are inherently weaker than a solid tubing section, so I would put safety as my primary concern. With multi-link suspensions, there is some reliance on the rubber bushings to allow slop in parts of the suspension travel...just so things do not bind. If everything is replaced with solid bearings they you can have stress spikes on the links.
By leaving the vertual upper pivot point alone I would hope to reduce the amount of stress on the system. If it cannot move freely with no shock installed, chances are it will fail when you are driving at some point. That is no fun.
Fig
This is what my solution would be...correcting on the bottom not the top.
The fewer adjustable linkages the better as if you adjust too many links you may have a resulting geometry that will not cycle clean. Also adjustable links are inherently weaker than a solid tubing section, so I would put safety as my primary concern. With multi-link suspensions, there is some reliance on the rubber bushings to allow slop in parts of the suspension travel...just so things do not bind. If everything is replaced with solid bearings they you can have stress spikes on the links.
By leaving the vertual upper pivot point alone I would hope to reduce the amount of stress on the system. If it cannot move freely with no shock installed, chances are it will fail when you are driving at some point. That is no fun.
Fig
I thought the OEM rear toe arm is adjustable? Doesn't it have a camber-type bolt on one end?
Also, what about the upper and lower traction/control arms? Wont that keep the toe and camber from adjusting? Don't they need to be adjustable as well?
So...your design will adjust camber by the lower susp. arm? Not the upper camber arm? Also, I see the end of your lower susp arm design...it looks like a possible camber bolt for additional fine tuning of the camber? Oh...btw...I think megan already made an adjustable upper camber arm, right?
Pete
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Fig,
I thought the OEM rear toe arm is adjustable? Doesn't it have a camber-type bolt on one end?
Also, what about the upper and lower traction/control arms? Wont that keep the toe and camber from adjusting? Don't they need to be adjustable as well?
So...your design will adjust camber by the lower susp. arm? Not the upper camber arm? Also, I see the end of your lower susp arm design...it looks like a possible camber bolt for additional fine tuning of the camber? Oh...btw...I think megan already made an adjustable upper camber arm, right?
Pete
I thought the OEM rear toe arm is adjustable? Doesn't it have a camber-type bolt on one end?
Also, what about the upper and lower traction/control arms? Wont that keep the toe and camber from adjusting? Don't they need to be adjustable as well?
So...your design will adjust camber by the lower susp. arm? Not the upper camber arm? Also, I see the end of your lower susp arm design...it looks like a possible camber bolt for additional fine tuning of the camber? Oh...btw...I think megan already made an adjustable upper camber arm, right?
Pete
BTW, if your car is lowered, you do not want to be at factory specs. Your suspension is not at factory compression, so it needs to be in a new geometry to work lowered.....
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Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001
-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting
2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
