Esu,

Put a long extension (12") on the socket. Spray some PB blaster down the socket opening where you put the extension. With your hand, GENTLY move the extension in all directions. It will eventually come off.

 

it's wedged in tight
i put long needle nose pliers and clamped on the 3/8 drive portion of the socket, then used vice grips to keep them tight. then used prybar to lift up, using the spark plugtube as a point of leverage. only thing that happens is the needle nose lack the grip.

so im still in world of trouble and seriously considering removing the head [left hand side, also known as the firewall side]

 

update: removing timing stuff, then exhaust downpipe, seeing if i can leave exhaust manifold on, then removing camshafts, then removing head

unless anyone has other ideas I should try?

 

you're da bomb, however, i was able to get the plug out so i no longer want to pull the tube out. but if I had known , i would have bought this thing!
lol
but now I know about it! where you get that, at a NAPA parts store? and why were you pulling out yours?

-brian

PS i will explain what i did for the benefit of others soon, with pix

 

allright..

 

CSAXON, that plug tube your holding is not from a 1MZFE.
That is probably from a 4cyl.
Plug tubes on a 1MZ are pressed in thats why they don't have threads on on each end.
On a 3s or 5sfe the valve covers are held down by a 30mm nut that threads into the plug tube.

llcool, For future reference, you can buy locking extensions so the socket will not seperate from the extension.

 

Good catch NAD1370! He mentioned tube removers and I grabbed some pics I had saved. Sorry for the error.

 

but my question is regarding a 3MZ-FE
so everyone is alll messed up right now hahahahah
my fsm says they are pressed in, but i wondered if maybe the fsm was wrong.

csaxon, why were you pulling spark plug tubes anyway [ i asked earlier, i guess you missed it ]? it doesn't matter, i was just curious....

look for a new thread from me in a couple days

 

look how sparkling nice my front valve train looked like. strange, aint it?

 

1mz...3mz same design plug tubes. I think the 3m has an iron block.

Front head will always look cleaner than the back one.
The front one doesn't heat up as much as the rear cause of the manifold covering it.

Very clean inside motor there llcool.

 

I've always been leary of spinning the starter over to loosen a crank bolt, only because of past issues with other engines. Tried this with a small block chevy once and ended up having to replace a starter and a flexplate


Just get a good 1/2 or 3/4 impact, usually does the trick. Another method is to use a belt to wrap around the pulley to hold it in place while you loosen the bolt. This obviously ruins the belt, though.

 

O.K., so how did you guys torque the Crankshaft Pully Bolt without using the SST? (Soon to be replacing the timing belt)

 

With the car in gear[manual trans], and the wheels movement impeded, turning the crankshaft is impossible. In some cases, and with those with automatic, you are going to need special tool, or ingenuity, only things that come to mind: impact gun [air or electric i suppose], rely on engine compression to oppose your torqueing, use the flywheel's starter-teeth and use something to hold against them, use a belt in a similar way as mentioned by jet_jockey , hold the camshafts with locked or tied-together-crescent wrenches, otherwise, just get the ''sst

i used the holes for the cover, behind the camshaft sprokets, and some bolts that fit appropriately, to hold the camshaft steady when tightening it, this doesn't really apply to your question, unless youre using the chamshafts+belt as resistance for the crank pulley bolt. I only used this method to tighten the camshaft sproket . i dont recommend this for the crank, but maybe this advice helps you with tightening the camshaft sproket bolt. i didn't like doing this, too risky, and kind of challenging. I prefer the sst for the camshaft sproket bolt. I think they are cheap and on ebay.

Often, you can make these SST yourself

 

Thanks for the response.

The only problem is if I get the bolt off without the SST, I wouldn't have the tool to torque the bolt!

 

Do you mean, to torque it to specification?